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OlaS

Member Since 15 Sep 2013
Offline Last Active Oct 06 2013 08:29 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: KitchenAid Built-In Side By Side KSSS48QDW04 - Freezer is not going to 0F

30 September 2013 - 11:04 PM

One more thing - is it possible that the defrost cycle goes for too long, in other words the evaporator coil defrosts within minutes, however the freexer stays in defrost mode longer and this is when the temperature gets higher. can this + some of the restrictions of the air flow cause the trouble?


In Topic: KitchenAid Built-In Side By Side KSSS48QDW04 - Freezer is not going to 0F

30 September 2013 - 10:02 PM

Thank you for your support dear experts here are my answers to all the queries:

check to see if your ice dispenser door is sealing properly. Your model has the problematic whirlpool dispenser door design where the right side support for the dispenser door axle breaks or becomes loose.

Also it's possible Your freezer thermostat may be malfunctioning. Try bypassing it and see if the temps drop significantly.

 

Checked the ice dispenser door - no issues, closes tight. The thermostat is very likely the problem, so I actually have a replacement thermostat that I am thinking of putting in to see if it makes any difference. Here is why it looks that the thermostat might be an issue - it turns the freezer off in the off position but no matter how I change the settings besides on and off the themperature stays the same.

 

 

Has the sealed system been worked on?

It looks like someone worked on the sealed system before I got the house, since there is a service valve installed by the compressor. However visually inspecting of the evaporator coils and other areas of the sealed does not show any signs of leaking or someting that looks not right. The Fridge is running for almost 9 months now since I moved and the situation is not getting worse - assuming that freon would have leaked already if this would be a leak. Sears rapair person made an assumption that whoever fixed the sealed system maybe had to deal with the clogged system rather than a leak but I could not confirm that assertion. The repair person confirmed that there are no leaks in the system

 

The frost (icicles} indicates air infiltration. This infiltration could cause higher condenser temps. and freezer temps. I would investigate this further.

 

I just found out that the door is clicking because one of the wheels that are on the hinges is broken. however this only causes the door not to close by itself, once I close it firmly then it seems to be a good seal, nevertheless the icicles still show up.

 

Picture is attached - the icicles are on both sides: door and the thremostat panel

 

Attached File  photo1.jpg   154.81KB   0 downloads

 

1) the Cold Control may be bad inside the Freezer and controls the Compressor

2) may need to see pictures

3) may need to see pictures

1) how to confirm that the cold control is bad without doing too much electric testing?

2) picture of the evaporator coils:

Attached File  photo.JPG   275.42KB   0 downloads

 

3) the icicles pic is above

 

How cold is the freezer getting????...............What is the current draw on the compressor????

When I had the freeer empty of food and closed door for a night I got 0 F over 24 hour period that is the expected temperature, once I start to put the food back, even just a bottom rack the temperature starts to be around 10F and flactuate to 30F during the defrost cycle. Also it seems that the fridge stays in the defrost cycle too long, the coil is defrosted quickly but the compressor does not kick in, so the freezer quickly goes to 30F.

 

Check the evaporator cover for proper sealing around the edges.  Also check the right side of the evaporator coil for ice buildup.  The area around the air return should be properly blocked off and sealed, allowing the returning air to be directed to the bottom of the evaporator.  There is a blocking kit available if needed but 1/4" weatherstripping will suffice.

 

Not sure what do you mean by the sealing and air return - can you point out on the evaporator coil picture where I should look for the seals?

 

 

 



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