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Member Since 04 Nov 2013
Offline Last Active Nov 18 2013 12:26 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Defrost issue old magic chef

18 November 2013 - 12:26 PM

something just ain't adding up?  If I was there I'm sure I could figure it out.  You're right, I feel like we are getting no where!


We are ! look at the beginning of this thread. I was pretty sure the thermo was dead but not positive. But the rest, all of it was uncertain. The heater, the timer, the heater fuse, etc etc. Neither you or I was close to knowing what was up. Now i know everything works except probably the thermostat. If i short the plug the thermo goes into the timer goes the full amount of time and the heater goes on and melts the ice. So without a thermo in it it works perfect. With either thermo, be it the old one or that new "wrong" one, both frozen when tested it doesn't work. And as i said recently i tried the old one again and now it DOES close when i freeze it long enough )used most of a can) so i figured it was good after all. But after trying it apparently not for some odd reason.  The puzzling thing is it doesn't defrost yet the thermo measured zero resistance both before i set the timer into defrost and after it clicked back on only 3 minutes in. I thought maybe it was the temp at which it closes had gone defective IE: changed, but like i said i checked it before and after and it was closed both times.


I think thats pretty clear ! Now why that happens i have no idea. But we know it works bypassed so somehow it must be the thermo because a thermo is nothing more than a switch that acts to short 2 wires together the same way when i bypassed the plug and the defroster worked. Thats the big question here,  and so far no one has said anything to suggest how thats possible. So i don't see how i'm chasing my tail at this point. Untill that question is answered i cannot go any further except to try a new stat, and I plan to if MCappliance gets back to me and tells me they were able to get the correct one.

In Topic: Defrost issue old magic chef

17 November 2013 - 02:36 PM

On second thought, it probably is the thermo. Because i froze it and let the freezer run a while, checked it again while in there and it was still closed. Advanced the timer and this time it didn't defrost and the timer made it come back on in 3 minutes as before. So i think the thermo does close, but the temp it closes and opens at has changed and it now opens at too cold a temp. Still doesn't explain why when i bypassed it it worked then stayed off another 10 minutes AFTER i unplugged the bypass. But i know it's the thrmo because it works fine with bypass. I just need to find the right thermo, hopefully MCappliance will get them and if not i'll try the one in the link above.

In Topic: Defrost issue old magic chef

17 November 2013 - 01:58 PM

Oh man, i am just floored ! I just froze the old thermostat and it closed ! I swear it didn't do that before. But i DID give it a very long shot of canned air before it went zero resistance. Maybe i didn't spray it long enough when i first tested it.  But i think it';s good !  I unplugged the bypass after about 20 minutes in defrost mode and the timer did NOT turn the fridge back on for about 10 minutes. The heater stopped tho when ni unplugged the bypass of course. Before it always clicked back on within about 3 minutes after i manually set it to defrost mode. So like i said above, i think the entire problem all along may just be one of the plugs, probably that fuse plug was just not making good contact and pulling it apart reseated it enough to clear and oxidation or whatever.


So now i'm going to reattach the plug to the old thermo and put it back in then advance the timer and see if it works. I'll freeze it good first tho then allow the fridge a hour or so before i try it. By the way, in the picture see that pipe plug C is resting on? I'm 95% sure thats where the thermo was clipped on when i first pulled it, but i wanna be sure my memory isn't fooling me....is that where it should go or should it be on the pipe in back of it that runs parallel to it untill it gets to the left then is a bit lower? Oh, and i keep making typos and i can't correct them....doesn't this forum have a edit function or am i just not seeing it?

In Topic: Defrost issue old magic chef

17 November 2013 - 01:30 PM

Wel whaddaya know....i bypasses the thermo plug and it started defrosting and the timer didn't click back on after a few miutes. It's still going now 15 minutes later. So apparently it WAS just the thermostat. What i don't get is why didn't the one i tried the other day work when i froze it, checked it to insure closed circuit, installed it and manually advanced the timer? As i said before it clicked back on after a couple minutes and at that point i checked the stat again and it was still at zero resistance. Heres one possibe explanation....maybe i had TWO issues....the thermo was bad and one of the plugs was just not making good contact like that 4 conductor one that goes to the fuse and something else. Being a electronic tech i'm very aware of how common it is for plugs to oxodize and make bad contact if not unplugged and replugged now and then.


So now i just need to get a replacement thermo. If MCappliance doesn't come thru i found this one in a thread here thats a couple years old and the link someone supplied is still valid and still says they are in stock. The wire colors are different and theres no plug so you use your old one, but the head looks just like mine. Might just work, ya think? http://www.repaircli...03918214/892545

In Topic: Defrost issue old magic chef

17 November 2013 - 01:03 PM

Before i do any further tests heres a more clear shot with some details i'd like to describe. A i believe is probably the heater and it reads 87 ohms. Not 87k, 87 ohms. That plugs into B. I unplugged D whick is a 4 conductor plug with 2 of the conductors going to E which i believe you said is a thermal fuze and it's tied to the defroster or whatever the big radiator looking job is with a tie wrap. When i unplugged tht and measures the 2 conductors going to that fuze or whatever E is, it was closed, or zero resistance. C is the defrost thermostat plug. By the way, i found a possible source for one that looks similar if MC appliance doesn't come thru.



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