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Pop Quiz: What's Wrong with this Freezer?


Son of Samurai

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You're investigating a refrigerator that's not cooling properly, and you see the following bits of evidence:

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5ADCA7F8-C66F-48E7-95F7-BD51F67AC41D.jpeg.653046998a33aabeb434657cd000e666.jpeg

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Two questions for you to answer:

  1. What (if anything) does the rime ice on the evaporator tell you?
  2. The source of the problem with this refrigerator is present in one of these photos. What is it?

Let us know your answers in the comments, and we'll let you know if you're right!

Want to troubleshoot refrigeration problems like this (and much more complicated ones) with complete confidence? Click here to check out the Refrigeration course over at the Master Samurai Tech Academy.

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 I see a bad ff gasket allowing moist air to go backwards up into the freezer and freezing on the lower part of the coil. It's not a drain or the water would evaporate and go up and freeze in the fan area. the fan must be working because there's no frost in that area. I would look at the defrost since there appears to be no attempt at removing the accumulated frost

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On 6/25/2021 at 4:34 PM, JohnnyCage said:

Igloo you know that defrost heater will never kick on as long as it has the exploded bimetal in place, right?

It did turn on while exploded. Unbelievable, I know. I have a evap picture on the 1st visit what I discovered before doing any work. I didn't notice it then, but I see in the picture now it's already exploded. After that pic was taken, I started defrosting it with a steamer and also had the heater turned on to help me. I know it was on, I was right next to it. Bimetal must be still closed while popped. I turned it on three times while defrosting, everytime the manual defrost timed out after maybe 20 mins. Heated every time. Obviously the bimetal needs replacing. Just saying it was closed in this position from my 1st visit to my last. Whether the board turns heater on I don't know, but it turns on manually. So the question is still; is this frost due to moisture only or auto defrost not working also. Would this much frost happen after 1 week if it was only a defrost problem? Or if it was only moisture? I know it was moisture because of the ice and icicle. Not sure about defrost, because moisture is ruining any evidence to diagnose that.

Moisture I think is due to the small evap icemaker, which I told the customer to ask Frigidaire to fix because my bill for that would be $300.

(sorry for hijacking the tread Samurai, I think I'm confusing people with my added picture)

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Vince Neibert

Posted

Bi-metal is definitely bad. I’ve never seen one popped out like that carry a load. If it actually is the contacts must be welded. It needs to be changed. I see it as a safety issue not to mention a callback. Other than that fix the air leak, if possible, and you should be good to go.

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Rime ice only at the bottom. evaporator fan motor doing its job. defrost heater not doing its job.

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It looks like it's not going into a defrost cycle because it has a sealed system problem, which is causing defrost terminator not to close due to higher temperature at that point.

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I concur with others who saw per photos provided at first glance, bad defrost bi-metal, bad door seal to cabinet allowing ambient temps to enter.  Until tested you could also have a bad fan, defrost heater and timer/timer on board.  Just saying🥶

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