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Why Are the Amps Too Low in this Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element?


An enterprising Appliantologist was working on a Whirlpool dishwasher with poor wash results, and when he opened up the machine to take a look inside, he saw this:

IMG_5387.jpeg.5e6e97033275981a94e2a3c0fd587782.jpeg

That's a lot of buildup on that heater! Seems like it indicates that the problem is with the heater. However, our tech noticed that the heater was getting hot enough to make water sizzle when splashed on it, so it was operating at least to some degree.

Additionally, our tech took an amp reading on the heater's circuit while running a test cycle, and he got only 3.5 amps. That seems like way less than you would expect. Are we dealing with some weird power supply issue, and the problem isn't the heater at all?

Let's get more info by looking at the spec block:

Screenshot_2026-04-22_at_12_55_31 AM.png

Huh? That's odd -- why are there two different wattage ratings for the element depending on if it's wet or dry? Does the control somehow sense if there's water in the unit and adjust the power supply to the heater accordingly? Or does the heater's resistance change when wet? That seems pretty far fetched. What's going on here?

Let's take a little detour into how these calrod heaters are made to answer these questions. This is a diagram of the insides of a typical calrod heater:

image_upload_55.jpg

There's not actually a lot going on here. You just have three main components: the nickel chromium heating coil, the magnesium oxide insulation, and the steel sheath.

The heating coil is what the electric current actually passes through, and as it does, the coil heats up. It's basically just a specialized resistor.

Magnesium oxide is used for the insulation because it's a bad conductor of electricity, but it's a great conductor of heat. So it lets the heat from the coil radiate out, but it doesn't let current flow into the surrounding sheath.

Here's a cross-section of a real world calrod where you can see the same components:

Calrod-CrossSection.jpg

So there's nothing we can see here about the element that should react to water. But there's something essential we need to know about metals like nickel chromium: their resistance increases with temperature.

thermal_res.jpg

The graph above shows this fairly linear rise in resistance as temperature increases. This is just a typical property of metals. They're great conductors at lower temperatures, but as the temperature increases, they lose some of this property.

Why is this? Well, it has to do with how "excited" the electrons in the metal are. On the atomic level, a relatively cool metal has plenty of electrons that are ready to move, but not going anywhere unless voltage is applied to them to make them more.

However, once you heat up that metal, those electrons start to bounce around in random directions due to the thermal energy. This creates what you can think of as a sort of "conflict of interest' when voltage is applied. Sure, plenty of those electrons will still move in the direction the voltage wants them to, but some are still bouncing in random directions due to the heat, possibly contrary to the current flow.

This graphic explains this pretty well:

5.2.2-Resistance-_-Temperature-in-a-Metal.jpeg

Why is all this relevant? Well, while the calrod heater being wet doesn't directly affect the circuit current, it does have an indirect effect. That is, water around the heater allows for much better heat transfer than air. Better heat transfer means that thermal energy gets removed from the coil, and less thermal energy = lower resistance. Lower resistance, higher amperage.

Aha! We've figured out why the spec block gives two different wattages for wet vs. dry. A dry heater coil stays hotter, meaning its resistance gets higher, lowering its amperage (and therefore its wattage). That 500 Watt dry heater spec, when we apply a little Ohm's law mojo (I = P/E), works out to a little over 4 amps.

Considering our tech was getting even fewer amps than that, we come to our conclusion: the mineral buildup on the heater is acting as a thermal insulator, making the heater coil get super hot when running. Even when the heater is submerged in water, the buildup is preventing heat transfer. And so you get minimal water heating, leading to subpar wash results.

The customer needed a new heating element and something to soften their hard water issue. Problem solved!

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  • Like 9
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7 Comments


Recommended Comments

Coley

Posted

Sam's out here bringin' the science.

This is something I'm going to have on my radar from here on out. The mineral laden water in some areas around here is ludicrous, making Kitchenaid icemaker cooling plates inoperative after 4-5 years, even with regular chemical cleaning. 

 

 

  • Like 3
vallen513

Posted

Sometimes, have to look at other things than just some failed part. I normally don't work on DW, but somehow i got roped into working on a GE. Replaced the grey baffle gasket. Few months go by, and leaking again. Replaced the black door gasket, still leaked. So figure maybe baffle failed somehow. When i took off baffle gasket and saw where it was leaking (dead center). I noticed there was quite a bit of grease/oil on the tub and gasket. Figure this could cause a leak. I replaced it again anyways, since it was only $20.  Told customer to wipe down both areas if it happens again.

  • Like 1
Daniel P

Posted

Hmmm. Calrod gets hot. Buildup stops heat transfer, even when submerged. Calrod gets hotter (or doesn't get rid of enough of the heat produced), which leads to higher resistance (and lower amps). I think what would have made this very hard for me in the moment, and is still a little confusing, is the water sizzling when splashed. Fake out. Good to be aware of how this works, much appreciated.

  • Like 2
Richie Mac

Posted

This was most definitely educational.  It's more fun when you actually have to put multiple clues together to reach a (theory) diagnosis.  Thank you fine folks, much appreciated!!

  • Like 1
  • Team Samurai
Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Posted

On 4/24/2026 at 12:21 PM, Daniel P said:

I think what would have made this very hard for me in the moment, and is still a little confusing, is the water sizzling when splashed. Fake out.

It could be IF you went by feel instead of using your instrument. In this case, watts (via amps) told the story. And that’s how it went down. @Joe B, Stoughton Appliance Repair took an amp measurement and his instrument told him Sum Ting Wong cuz amps were too low.

Moral of the story: don’t troubleshoot electric circuits by feel; instead, use your instruments. Numbers tell the story. 

Bagram

Posted

Very educational thank you so much.

  • Like 1
agtred99

Posted (edited)

Very informative and great to know, thank you!

Question:  Could the mineral buildup be cleaned / removed from the heating element, making it operable again? Or would that be too labor intensive / cost prohibitive compared to just replacing it?

~ Jason

Edited by agtred99
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