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Replacing the Door Boot Seal on an LG Front Load Washer


Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Every battle-hardened professional Appliantologist has his favorite technique for replacing the door gasket (also called the "boot" or "bellows") on front load washers. Although the door gasket on all makes of front loaders are very similar in construction, there are enough differences among the brands that certain techniques work better on some brands than on others. For example, many Appliantologists prefer to replace the door gasket on a Whirlpool Duet washer without removing the entire front panel of the machine.

Although the door gasket on LG washers is very similar to all the rest, that inner retaining spring seems to be just tight enough that it's worth the extra effort of removing the front panel to facilitate the installation. LG also makes two special spring pliers to help with removing and reinstalling the outer and inner retaining springs. Most Appliantologists say they can get by without the outer spring clamp tool Part number: AP4438623

Part number: AP4438623

but that inner spring clamp tool Part number: AP4439038

Part number: AP4439038

is worth the price of admission.

The other big thing to watch out for with getting the replacement LG door boot is to check to see if the model you're working on has the extra drain port at the 6 o'clock position or not. Sometimes, even looking up the door boot by model number will give you the wrong replacement boot and the presence or absence of the drain port seems to be the key difference.

Here's a video that shows how to replace the door boot using both the outer and inner spring clamp pliers and by removing the front panel of the machine.

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LG seems to be substitute the boot with the drain hole for them all now

the black plastic cap from acess valves is a perfect fit for plugging the extra hole

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  • Team Samurai
Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Posted

Domo for that tip, Brnt!  

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<<<LG seems to be substitute the boot with the drain hole for them all now>>>

 

*********

 

In other words---all new LG washers now have a *drain hole* at the 6 o'clock position on the Door Gasket :)

 

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<<<the black plastic cap from acess valves is a perfect fit for plugging the extra hole>>>

 

**********

 

If you're refering to the black plastic *Drain Plug*---on the small black hose at the Drain Strainer/Clean-out...

 

That'll problably work fine---however---I cannot find a part number for just the *plug* (plug & small drain hose come as a set).

 

***********

 

<<<Most Appliantologists say they can get by without the outer spring clamp tool>>>

 

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Virtually impossible! Get the Outer Clamp Tool as well :)

 

*************

 

<<<The other big thing to watch out for with getting the replacement LG door boot is to check to see if the model you're working on has the extra drain port at the 6 o'clock position or not.>>> 

 

*************

 

Especially for older model LG washers (about 2008 and older).

 

If a new/replacement Door Gasket *does* have a Drain Hole---and the older LG washer gasket *does not* have this hole...

 

Use 1/2" (13mm) Silicone Pull Plugs.

 

Insert the *plug* into the Drain Hole on the new gasket.

 

Cut off excess silicone (plug).

 

Install a nylon wire/zip tie instead of using a metal gear or tension clamp---and tighten. If a metal type clamp is used---eventually it'll damage/perforate the new gasket.

 

Silicone pull plugs *were* available at Harbor Freight---but can be ordered from other sources (Google/Bing search).

 

Sometimes---the new/replacement gasket may also have 2 additional 1/2"/13mm holes at the 12 o'clock position of the gasket (for dual recirculation nozzles).

These can be sealed off as well.

Other times---a new/replacement gasket may also have a DRUM LIGHT hole.

This is approximately 1 inch diameter---and can also be sealed off with a 1 "/  25mm silicone plug.

 

To keep my inventory sane---I usually order a new gasket with FOUR holes---and plug/block off those that are not needed.

 

For each tub size washer (4.0/4.5/5.1 cu ft) there are different gaskets

 

Rather than stocking 10 or more different gaskets---it's possible to stock/carry only 4 gaskets to fit all models.

 

As for the Repair Video...

 

It's *far* easier/faster---to remove the eight 10mm bolts from the upper & lower tub weights---and remove---rather than using liquid dish detergent to install the new gasket onto the tub.

 

Lastly---although not a big deal---when installing the OUTER CLAMP---place it on the tool *first* and squeeze/spread open.

 

Then place the pliers (with the clamp spread open) at the 6 o'clock position of the door opening.

 

Start placing the the clamp onto the gasket at the 9 o'clock position with fingers and work to the 12 o'clock position---over to the 3 o'clock.

 

Done (in less time)   :)

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  • Team Samurai
Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Posted

Mucho domos for taking the time to add that valuable enriching info, John!  I really do appreciate it!    :)

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Couching Tiger

Posted

Watched the video and noticed that the tech uses the same (outer spring pliers) for both clamps. Just to confuse things a little bit more...

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Any door gasket can be done without taking off the front panel or with the use of a tool. I cut my teeth 20 years ago on the Frigidaire units that had the gasket glued to the panel and the inner clamp was one entire spring. We did those without any special tools and without taking the panel off.

I train my guys to do them without taking the panel off, but we do have the 90° tool. It takes a number of times to get good at it, but it is worth it, especially when you have a stack unit, or one buried under a counter. Best time to try it / practice it is when you have a job where no one is home.

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