Sublime Master john63 is The School's resident LG and Samsung expert and offers these troubleshooting tips for LG electric dryers that won't heat gleaned from actual hand-to-hand combat with these machines.
HEATING ELEMENTS in LG dryers **rarely** fail.
Unless-----the *exhaust vent* from the rear of the dryer-to-the-outside-venthood is/has been blocked/restricted for a very,very long time.
Even then---the Heating Element usually does not fail.
I've replaced perhaps **one** Heating Element in nine years.
On the other hand---THERMAL LIMITERS will & do fail if the *exhaust vent* is blocked/restricted.
If the *exhaust vent* is a very short-length (1 to 3 feet)---then the liklihood of the vent causing a failed THERMAL LIMITER is nil. The 2nd most common cause of *failed* THERMAL LIMITERS is from Fabric Softener Sheets. Once-in-awhile the Fab. Soft. Sheet will become "caught/sucked" onto the LINT FILTER HOUSING and this causes a giant reduction in AIR FLOW.
Air movement from the Heater-Through-The-Laundry-Through-The-Lint-Filter-And-Exiting-The-Dryer-Exhaust-Vent slows to such a reduced a level---which then causes the Heater Housing Temperature to "spike". This in turn causes the THERMAL LIMITER to *shut-down* the Heater--for safety.
When I get an LG electric dryer that has a NO HEAT complaint--the very first thing that I will examine/rule-out will be the *exhaust venting* that runs from behind the dryer to the outside dryer vent hood. If the vent is has been verified 100% to be absolutely-positively clear/unobstructed---and...
1) The wall receptacle has 220 volts
***Unplug the Dryer at this point***
2) The TERMINAL BLOCK is not damaged/burnt (this is where the dryer plug attaches to the dryer)
Then it's time to inspect the THERMAL FUSE. This is centrally-mounted on the side of the HEATER HOUSING.
If the THERMAL FUSE (6931EL3003D) has failed a *continuity* test using a Digital MultiMeter (DMM)--it should be replaced along with the THERMOSTAT (6931EL3001E) which is also mounted on the HEATER HOUSING.
If the THERMAL LIMITER tested "good"...
Place the test leads into the Motor Connector/Plug. One test probe into each of the two *thickest* wires of the Motor Plug.
Looking at the Motor---you'll notice a *black ring* on the motor shaft directly opposite the Motor PULLEY.
This *black ring* is part of the CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH on the Motor (prevents the Heater from functioning if the Motor fails to start).
Use your finger to slide the *black ring* towards/in the direction of the BLOWER WHEEL (it'll slide about 1/2 inch).
At this point the DMM should show *continuity*. If not--replace the MOTOR.
If the CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH tests good---replace the MAIN BOARD (a rare failure for a NO HEAT condition but not impossible).
Source: LG DLE7177RM Not Heating