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Featured Entries

  • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Appliantology is Your Key to Appliance Repair Service Call Success!

    By Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    The Old Skool method of doing service calls was to go out on the call and pray to the pot bellied Buddha that the tech sheet was still hidden somewhere on the appliance. The plan being that, if the tech sheet was still there, you could stare at the lines and squiggles long enough to convince the customer you had reached a definitive and scientific conclusion about the problem.  My friends, I'm here to tell you that the Internet has made this Monkey Boy way of doing bidness obso-frikkin-lete! With powerful information tools, like Appliantology, at your fingertips, there's no need to rely on the pot bellied Buddha leaving the tech sheet for you. This webinar will teach you a whole new way of doing bidness using Appliantology as your trusty information tool, every bit as valuable as your Bosch driver or Princeton Tec headlamp, to increase your First Call Completes and profitability. To learn more about all the splendiferous benefits of being a Professional Appliantologist member here at Appliantology, CLICK HERE!  Learn more about Appliantology and it's powerful benefits to you as a professional appliance tech in our free and fun short course, Appliantology 101: Your Guide to the Ultimate Appliance Repair Information Tool.     
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  • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Digital Data Communications in Appliances - Samsung Dryer

    By Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Most appliances today use computers to control the various appliance functions. Computers talk in logical 1's and 0's which are actually pulses or square waves of voltage that you can see on an oscilloscope or measure with a meter. These pulses are arranged in a specific sequence to transmit and receive information inside the appliance. In this video, the Samurai uses a Samsung dryer to show you what these pulses look like and how to use this information for troubleshooting. Come with me now on Journey of Total Appliance Enlightenment. Learn how to troubleshoot appliances like a real technician at  
  • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Triac Operation for Appliance Techs

    By Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Had some good questions at the webinar on the Bi-Directional PSC drive motor system used in Whirlpool VM washers. Professional Appliantologist members can grab some popcorn and watch the webinar recording here: Bi-directional PSC Drive Motor Systems in Whirlpool VM Washers During the webinar, Joe asked how triacs are turned off. I wanted to give a more complete and accurate answer in this post.  To understand how triacs are turned off once they're turned on (and conducting) we need to have a little understanding about how triacs work. So that's what I'm going to do here. Before we light this candle, I'll start with the three take-away points that we need to know about triacs: 1. Triacs are used to control AC power supplies 2. You can think of them as solid state relays 3. Triacs are current controlled devices. This means that you need electrons bustin' down the Gate to turn it on AND you need load current flowing through them in order to stay on.  Okay, here we go... Intro The word "Triac" is an acronym that stands for Triode for Alternating Current. "Triode" is the old Skool word for a three-terminal (or electrode) vacuum tube used to amplify a signal.  Triacs are used to control a AC power supply. In appliances, they are used to turn the AC power supply off or on.  Here's what a typical triac looks like, such as what you might find on an appliance control board: Here is the schematic symbol: The leads labelled A1 and A2 stand for “Anode 1” and “Anode 2.”  You will also see them referred to as “MT1” and “MT2” where MT stands for Main Terminal. Same thing. This is the business end of the triac where the main working current passes. This part of triac can complete the circuit for lots of different AC loads, from light bulbs to motors.  The other important thing to point out is the “G” terminal. This is the Gate and it has the power to turn the triac on with just a little DC voltage, usually a 5 VDC digital pulse generated by a microprocessor. So this little Gate voltage and tiny current can make a triac turn on and pass a heap big mondo working current.  Triacs are like solid state relays and, in the appliance world anyway, serve the purpose of the relays with a coil and set of contacts. The difference is that triacs don't have metal contacts that can arc and burn out and don't have a coil. (And, of course, triacs are made of semiconductors and PN junctions. More on that in a bit.) Relays are electromechanical devices whereas triacs are solid state devices. Inside a Triac Triacs have two sets of three PN junctions. Look at the diagram below: As with any semiconductor device, it requires current flowing through it, or more properly stated, electrons being forced through it by a voltage source, in order to collapse the PN junctions and cause it to start conducting. Refer to the webinar recording on “Semiconductors and PN Junctions” in the Professional Appliantologists forum and at Master Samurai Tech for more details on this.  The triac is constructed in such a way that a little tiny gate current is all that's needed to “forward bias” the triac and make it turn on and conduct a large AC current that can drive a load like a motor. This Gate current is typically driven by a small DC voltage like 5VDC.  Turning a Triac On and Off Triacs require a minimum current through the Gate in order to turn on. In order to stay on, they also need a minimum load current flowing through them from MT1 to MT2. This is called the “holding current.” This is why we say that triacs are current controlled devices.  When the AC voltage crosses the zero line (the x-axis), the current then goes to zero and the triac “turns off.” So the triac naturally turns off at every half cycle of the AC sine wave. The Gate voltage, which produces the Gate current, must then be reapplied in order to the turn the triac on for the next half cycle.  Let's look at this: In the diagram above, the sine wave is the current passing through the triac from MT1 to MT2 (or A1 to A2, same thing). The notches represent the triggering points where Gate current has to be supplied in order to keep the triac turned on for the next half cycle. Also notice the holding current dashed lines. This is the minimum current that needs to be passing through the triac in order to stay on.  AC voltage goes to zero every half cycle (120 times a second in a 60 Hz power supply). No voltage means there's no current because current, electrons, cannot move unless there is a voltage difference between two points as you learned in the Basic Electricity module of the Fundamentals course. Since there is no current flowing through the triac at this point forcing the PN junctions to stay collapsed (current drops below the minimum holding current required to keep the triac conducting), the triac turns off and stops conducting. To get the triac to turn on and start conducting again, you have apply a Gate trigger voltage (which drives the gate current) to the Gate terminal. If you to want to have the triac conduct through several AC cycles, you have to re-apply the Gate trigger voltage each and every time the AC voltage sine wave goes to zero (i.e., when it crosses the x-axis). Here's another diagram showing the gate current triggering pulses: A couple things to notice about the graph above: 1. Look at the timing of the Gate current pulse. It occurs right around the time the AC load current through the triac goes to zero.  2. You don't need to keep supplying Gate current the entire cycle to keep the triac turned on, just when the load current goes to zero. So you can supply Gate current in specifically-timed pulses. We're talking accurate timing down to the microsecond. Mind boggling for us; piece of cake for a microprocessor-- they do this kind of stuff all day long.  If you were to connect an oscilloscope to both the gate voltage and the voltage output at one of the the triac main terminals, it would look something like this: The Gate pulses in the oscilloscope photo above are wider than the ones in the preceding diagram but the idea is exactly the same. Channel 1 is the Gate voltage and Channel 2 is the AC voltage output of the triac.  I'm talking about voltage now. That's perfectly fine because in non-reactive devices, like triacs, there is no phase shift between current and voltage. So whatever voltage does, current also does at the exact same time. It's just easier to show voltage on an oscilloscope. Notice that the gate pulse on Channel 1 goes from zero to 5.5 VDC each and every time the AC voltage sine wave on Channel 2 crosses the x-axis (at which point the AC voltage is zero). So while the frequency of the AC line voltage is 60 Hz, the frequency of the Gate pulses is 120 Hz. You can see this in the lower right hand corner of the photo above.  Since the AC voltage (and hence current) goes to zero 120 times a second, all you need to do to stop the triac from conducting is remove the Gate voltage. Done!  The Two Golden Rules for Gating Triacs 1. To turn a triac ON, a gate current greater than the minimum required for that particular triac model must be applied until the load current is passing through from MT1 to MT2 . Being a semiconductor, temperature affects this and is one of the design considerations the engineers have to consider.  2. To turn off a triac, the load current must go below the minimum holding current for that particular triac model long enough for the PN junctions to re-establish themselves. We're talking microseconds here. And, of course, remove the Gate current. With the Gate current removed when the load current (and hence voltage) goes to zero, the triac will not conduct, even if the load voltage later goes to something other than zero.  Summary 1. Triacs are used to control AC power supplies 2. You can think of them as solid state relays 3. Triacs are current controlled devices. This means that you need electrons bustin' down the Gate to turn it on AND you need load current flowing through them in order to stay on.  Beyond understanding how triacs operate, technicians need to be aware of configurations where a triac is controlling the power supply to a load because this affects how the supply voltage is tested and measured. We go into details on that in this webinar recording: Voltage Measurements, Meters, Ghost Voltages, and Triac-controlled Neutrals
  • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Are Samsung Appliances Reliable?

    By Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Samsung's in the news lately with exploding washers and tablet computers. So people may be wondering how reliable Samsung appliances are.  Here's a good article from the Yale Appliance blog comparing Samsung repair rates with industry averages. Yale Appliance and Lighting [website] is a large appliance dealer and service center in the Boston area. Yale completes over 20,000 service calls per year so I expect their results to be a good representation of reality.  One comment that caught my eye, "Also, many technicians cannot fix the Korean brands for whatever reason. You may want to check that your dealer can service before you buy Samsung or LG." You may be asking yourself why this is the case. This illustrates a huge problem in the appliance repair trade today: there is a critical shortage of skilled technicians who understand appliance technology (basic electricity and electronics, motors and motor control systems, microprocessor-based control systems, etc.) and know how to troubleshoot. As a result, many appliance servicers are really parts changers who do "troubleshooting" by pattern recognition: if this problem, replace that part. So if something merely looks different than what they're used to seeing, they're at a complete loss. The reality is that electricity works the same way in Korea as it does everywhere else on Planet Earth and the Koreans are using the same technology as all the other manufacturers. But because the Koreans give more details in their service information (for example, showing circuit details of their control boards) parts changers freak out and think they're using space-age technology.  The Koreans aren't going away. Samsung in particular is gaining US market share faster than any other manufacturer. For a service company to refuse to work on them or to not acquire the technical skills and competence needed to be an effective appliance technician today is a bad business decision and a recipe for low income or bankruptcy.     Link to original article:   Are Samsung Appliances Reliable? (Reviews) I was watching the news last week and learning about Samsung's problems with phones exploding for no clear reason. Most new products have issues in my experience. The computer industry innocently calls them bugs. Exploding products is a problem especially when you deliver them in your home. Gas ranges, dishwashers, and laundry can cause more damage than a phone. So I wanted to answer the question: Are Samsung appliances reliable? Measure of Reliability Every year our service department completes over 20,000 service calls. Our formula is service calls divided by sales as a percentage of service within the first year. Then we compare brands and products as we have in various articles for a 12 month period. We will compare Samsung's service rates to the industry in their major categories: Cooking (not including microwaves, because they do not break in any brand), laundry, dishwashers and French door refrigerators. BTW, these numbers always change as they are measured on a 12-month rolling basis. Also, we have only sold Samsung for 18 months, so I do not know about the products manufactured before 2014. Samsung Reliability Numbers October 2015-October 2016 Laundry Front Load Washers: 13 Serviced / 130 sold - 10% Top Load Washers: 0 Serviced / 35 sold - 0% Dryers: 10 Serviced / 92 sold - 10.4% Industry average is just over 11%, so Samsung is slightly better. There have been 21 cases of the top load breaking apart due to the rod unfastening. However, 21 out of millions sold since 2011 throughout the country seems relatively small. However, this could be a concern. Read Most Reliable Washers to compare against other brands   Dishwashers Dishwashers: 4 Serviced / 107 Sold - 3.7% The average for all dishwashers is about 10.9%, so Samsung is more reliable. Read Most Reliable Dishwashers to compare against other brands   Gas Cooking Gas Cooking: 13 Serviced / 178 Sold - 7.3% Samsung is serviced about half the average of about 14% in gas ranges. Read Most Reliable Gas Ranges to compare against other brands French Door Refrigeration French Door Refrigerators: 71 Serviced / 425 sold - 16.7% Refrigerators have service rates of 20% or more. Icemakers are the number one service call at Yale. Sending a frozen cube through a cool refrigerator dispenser will cause leaks over time. 16.7% is not great, but still better than the total. Read Most Reliable French Doors to compare against other brands Should You Buy a Samsung Appliance? People ask me about what to buy all the time on this blog. I always say the same thing. I like what does not break because we have to fix broken appliances. But I will answer the question on Samsung more directly. The product seems reliable as the numbers show. When there are problems, their logistics of parts and technical support are not as easy as a Frigidaire or Bosch. Also, many technicians cannot fix the Korean brands for whatever reason. You may want to check that your dealer can service before you buy Samsung or LG. However, the product seems to be designed incredibly well. The new induction with the blue LED “flame” is creative, as are the designs of the French doors and front load laundry. A company who has battled Apple successfully over the years (until recently) cannot be underestimated especially in a staid industry like appliances. Additional Resources Looking for answers before you buy major appliances? Get the Yale Appliance Buying Guide with detailed profiles of the major brands plus answers to the 10 most asked questions. Well over 185,000 people have read a Yale Guide. Related Articles Best Stainless Packages 5 Best Counter Depth Refrigerators  

Our community blogs


    Good morning, ladies and gentlemen, this is your Samurai speaking. We're expecting a little turbulence today as we make some adjustments to the Master Samurai Tech Academy website. There may be periods throughout the day where the site either doesn't load at all or may look strange. This, too, shall pass. 

    For now, I invite you to sit back, relax, and peruse the latest pearls of appliantological wisdom in my blog here at Appliantology.

  2. This may cause a bit of a stir with you guys, but Ill discuss it anyway.   Some of you are staunch users of genuine, OE, brand name appliance parts.  I am not one of those people.  Appliance parts is an expense in my business second only to labor.  My rough guesstimate is that I spend about $50,000 a year on parts. If I used exclusively genuine, new parts that figure could easily go up 20%.  Perhaps even more. 

    Control boards: 

    You can go new, genuine, and pay $200 for it +$60 core, or you can buy direct from core centric (or others) for $98, no core charge.  Sounds like a no brainer eh?  Well, its more complicated than just money.  

    1. The defect rate is definitely higher than new.  I have purchased hundreds, and hundreds of reconditioned boards form core centric.  I would say that 1 in 50 will go bad within 30 days, or be bad out of the box.   I can honestly say that I can't remember EVER buying a new board from Servall that was bad out of the box.  

    2. You are charging your customer "new board" money.  I was having a moral dilemma with this one for a while.  I was able to find a great solution to this.  Guarantee your work parts+labor for 1 year.  Chances are that you will never hear from them again, I have only had 2 call backs that were in the 60day-1 year timeframe.  The bottom line is this: You are offering your customer MORE than what they would get with a "new" board, and you get to make more money. 

    3. The core charge.  I, like many of you, have had north of $500 is core money sitting in your van.  That sucks.  Buying a refurbished board saves that dilemma.  Its all about keeping more money in your pocket!  


    Non-complicated generic parts:

    Lets talk about the Direct drive lid switch part # 3949247.  I use at least 3 a week, between COD calls and my shop.  They cost $16.29 at Servall, I get them generic for $2.20. That is a savings of over $14!  I have been using this switch for about 2 years, and I have installed a few hundred, at least.  I have had ONE fail me.  It wasn't even broken, the casting was filled on one of the mounting holes.  If you calculate $14 x the 300 or so I have used so far, you will conclude that I have saved myself over $4200.   I can apply the same thing to couplings

    285753: servall: 6.89, generic $1.50.  

    285785 14.50, generic  $6.50 

    3363394 15.60, generic $6

    Im not even going to tell you how much a complete duet water pump costs.  (hint: its less than $20) 


    Id like to mention one part specifically, GE gas oven thermostat WB20K8.  You can get it at servall for $86, or you can buy it from ERP for about $65. I know, its only $20.  The thing is this:  Both of those parts are made by the some company, Harper Wyman  They are the EXACTLY the same part. one comes in a bag, one in a box.  


    I have used many hundreds of these parts, and find them to be as good, or better than genuine.  Again, you will get the very rare premature failure, but its more like 1 in a hundred with this stuff.  If you are using this stuff by the dozen, it makes sense for you financially to use it.  

    Electricky complicated stuff like sensors and door locks. 

    Quite frankly I don't use them.  I had a bad experience with some VMW lid locks that were dirt cheap, like $16.  Problem is that none of them worked.  I don't use that many of them, so the saving is not that much to me.   Ref sensors are dirt cheap for genuine, so I would rather buy those.   I will eventually warm up to them again. It takes time. 



    There is a time and place for generic parts. I genuinely believe that there are some aftermarket companies that truly want to make a good product, and want to end the monopoly that is OEM.   Some companies are out there selling cheap junk.  You have to try out a company, or a line of parts before you buy in bulk.  For me its worth the slight aggravation based on how much extra money it puts in my pocket every year.   Ultimately you should do what you think is best for you and your business.  


  3. Tech notes

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    Recent Entries

    The formula for power in watts is P = I . E where I is current and E is voltage or is it?

    FACT1 : Voltage is the potential for current to flow.

    Theory : Voltage is also called "potential difference" or " electromotive force". As with any measurement we need to have a standard point of reference for voltage that is 0V and another point of interest. The standard point of reference of 0V is earth. Voltage is measured between earth and any other point. However this is not the voltage we should consider in power or work done calculations as voltage in itself does not do work or power in watts.

    FACT2 : Current is the flow of electron.

    Theory: Conventional current flows from a higher voltage to a lower voltage in a closed circuit. Current is a rate measurement that is number of electrons passing a point per second. It is plain to see that higher the potential difference more the electron flow and higher current. Current does work. Current is indirectly proportional to resistance. A definitive test in live testing for a closed circuit or a circuit doing work is to measure the current.

    To summarize, Current only flows and can be measured in a closed circuit. Potential difference is only measured in an open circuit.

    FACT3 : Voltage drop is the voltage that is dropped across a load in a closed circuit. Voltage drop is caused by a potential difference, current flow and a load resistance.

    Theory : Voltage and Voltage drop are very different things which are sometimes mistakingly considered to be the same thing. Voltage can be regarded as a cause, and on the other hand, Current and Voltage drop is the effect only in a closed circuit.

    Only loads have a voltage drop because only they are doing work. Switches donot have a voltage drop. It is voltage will you measure across a switch in a circuit.

    The Load is the final peice of the puzzle. In a series circuit the voltage drop across a load is directly proportional to the Load resistance and current. There maybe one or more loads is series. In this case the  higher the Load resistance the greater the voltage drop since current remains the same is a series circuit.

    Voltage drop in a parallel circuit is the same as source line voltage in quantity but if a brach in a parallel circuit is opened by a switch the there is no current flow through that branch so no voltage drop but there will still be a potential difference or Voltage. The other branches will have voltage drop and the as an effect the total current drawn will be reduced.

    For testing a series circuit we need to switch on and measure current and voltage drop across the load. The product of these two measurements will give you the power in watts. Voltage drop divided by current will give you load resistance.

    Lets consider a series circuit with line voltage, one or more loads and an open switch what is the power consumed by the loads? OK that's easy liven the circuit and measure voltage drop across each load we should read 0V and use the E square by R formula we will get zero power consumed. Remember the switch is open means there is no voltage drop. So zero power is consumed. The switch is a control. However there will be a potential difference of line voltage across the loads when tested before and after the switch.

    Now let's close the switch. Potential difference across the switch drops to 0V and there will be a voltage drop across each of the loads. Current will also be present. Potential difference should be measured using a loading meter to rule out any open neutral fault.

    Protective devices are reactive temperature effected devices. PTC thermistor, bimetals, fuses are some examples of protective devices. They protect the load and the conductors from over current. With the appliance plugged in you should read 0VAC across these devices under normal conditions that's because they are normally closed. In cases of overheating the protective device will open and then you should read line voltage across its terminals. 

    In conclusion voltage and voltage drop are cause and effect respectively. Power in watts is the product of voltage drop and current, is the formula for appliance repairs. To definitely test a circuit we should do voltage drop and current tests.

  4. Moostafa
    Latest Entry

    Hello, my infidel friends. Today, I would like to share with you a sad tale which illustrates the cultural distinction between the low-brow Arab people and the much more refined Pashtun and Tajik tribes of Afghanistan:




    Customs officers at the Hamad International Airport, in the Qatari capital, have arrested a Yemeni man attempting to smuggle more than 12 kilograms (27 lbs) of sliced bacon hidden in his anal cavity.

    53-year old Abd al Rahman Shamoun, was spotted by a specially trained police dog, looking for drugs or pork meat on passengers and in their luggage.

    He appeared visibly nervous and sweaty, so the customs took him in a separate office for a more thorough search and investigation.

    The search revealed 4 larges condoms hidden in his anal cavity, each containing more than 3 kilograms of bacon.



    The full story is published here.

    You see, here in Afghanistan we do not have such problems as discussed in the above article, for we consume the "bacon" of male yak. Since it is made not from pigs, our "bacon" is halal, that is, it is permitted under the Sharia laws of Allah, the Merciful and Compassionate, who irritates the bowels of the wicked.

    This article is but one of many examples of Arab dull-wittedness. Had Abd al Rahman Shamoun known about the enlightened Afghani yak "bacon" delicacy, he would not have needed to smuggle the unclean pig flesh in his even more unclean rectum. 

    It is true that my sand-slinging Arabian brethren have a rather difficult time telling the two flesh meats apart since they have no yaks in Arab countries. But penis of yak is an ancient delicacy among the the Pashtun and Tajik peoples of Afghanistan. 


    Although harvesting the "bacon" of male yaks leaves them neutered and impotent, the smoky, salty delicacy is a cherished part of our tribal bonding rituals.

    I would like to point out the squirreling away of items in one’s rectum is an age-old technique of my people to hide our possessions, few they may be, from the many infidel invaders who have troubled our country in the past. It is part of the standard education of all boys here in genteel Afghanistan. Yes, I remember being a young boy and the extreme discomfort whenever I sat down.

    This man in the news article was–how do you say in Ameedica–an amateur. While I was in the elite Appliance Repair Corps of the feared Mujahideen warriors, I once carried my entire tool bag in my rectum for 50 miles past military checkpoints just to repair one, smelly washing machine. I have never been structurally the same since that day though. We shall see what happens to the man in this article, for my keffiyeh-wearing cousins are known to overreact.

    Allahu Akbar!


  5. Just got done sitting through an 8 hour course on the NEC.  This course goes towards my continuing education hours needed to maintain my electrician certificate for appliance repair (07D Washington State Specialty Electrician).  Most of the class doesn't pertain to our trade, but I was able to pick up a few gems.  

    The National Electric Code (NEC) is the code used by jurisdictions to determine if your electrical supply is up to code, which releases a new edition every 3 years.

    Section 210.8 is where it talks about Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) requirements.  With the edition of NEC 2014, 210.8 (A) reads: All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specificed in 210.8(A)(1) through (10) shall have GFCI protection for personnel.

    Newly added to the the NEC 2014: 208.10(A)(10) Laundry Areas.  That's right.  All laundry areas in new built or remodeled homes will include GFCI to all 120 volt receptacles.

    Another new add on for the 2014 NEC:  210.8(D) Kitchen Dishwasher Branch Circuit.  GFCI protection shall be provided for outlets that supply dishwashers installed in dwelling unit locations.

    One comment mentioned by the instructor at my class today.  "Every year that I teach the class, the NEC adds more locations that GFCIs are required."
     Which was followed by a comment from him.  The Code Panel is talking about adding GFCI to 240Volt outlets to the list of required circuit.  If this is so, the GFCI reset would  most likely be on the circuit breaker, because GFCI breakers are becoming more and more common.  


  6. I had an LG blowing thermal fuses but every time I went out to check it everything tested fine. I was able to finally find the culprit after the 3rd one blew. What was going on was the high limit thermostat was welded shut. Here's the video. 



    We all want to grow our companies,  but finding and keeping qualified techs or just finding anyone that posseses even the slightest work ethic is a difficult,  near impossible task.  This song laments this sad state of affairs but also is a tribute to the recent passing of one of the greats. 


    Scroll down,  start the video,  scroll back up and sing along! 

    Whirlpool Drain (or if Prince was an Appliantologist looking for good help) 

    Maybe you never meant to cause me any sorrow
    Maybe you never meant to cause me any pain
    I only wanted to one time see you working
    I only wanted to see you
    working on a Whirlpool Drain

    Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
    Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
    Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain 
    I only wanted to see you
    Steaming up a Whirlpool Drain 

    I never wanted to be a hard-assed employer
    But neither could I be some kind of friend
    Now please go away,  go work for another
    For your employment with me has to end

    Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
    Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
    Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
    I only wanted to see you
    Underneath a Whirlpool Drain

    Dude, I know, I know
    I know  appliances are changing
    It's time we all reach out
    to learn something new, that means you too

    You say you want me to teach you
    But you can't seem to concentrate your mind
    So I think you better pack it
    Since you can't even Ptrap a Whirlpool Drain

    Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
    Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
    Service Owners, if you know what I'm singing about up here
    C'mon, raise your hand

    Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
    I only want to have one
    Only want to see one
    Working on a Whirlpool Drain


    This song debuting on AppLYRICology  Best of Durham Music Vol 1  


  8. Well ladies and gents. Sorry I have been MIA for a while. Life has been crazy with service calls and my new technician. Also had our first baby (technician in training) blogentry-82264-0-29266900-1449760812_th. It's been an amazing experience. I am loving every second of it. It has been tough through all the changes which is why i have been absent from here for a bit. But i'm BACK! I hope the Samurai and Durham have been holding the fort down and not letting you guys get away with too much! hahaha.

  9. acfixerdude's Blog

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    It was during the first break of day in the middle of a heat wave when we first received the call. A villager had requested assistance with a situation he could no longer contain. He and his family had been attacked by a once well behaved friend taking residence inside their home. This well-behaved friend had turned into a villainous foe, terrorizing the family by destroying their stockpiles of sustenance when least expected, an action which severely disrupted the family’s daily routine. They called upon us to fend off this rebellious foe and to restore civility back into their home.

    So with a brave heart I prepared for impending battle. With my heavy weapons strapped to my side and only experience to guide me, I journeyed to the residence in need. When I arrived I was greeted by the saddened man and his family, begging me to tame the beast that ailed them. As I stepped into the arena of battle a sinister smell caught me off guard. The smell of burning copper singed my nostrils as I made my way towards the beast’s lair. It seemed to be annoyed by my presence and howled in anger. A great battle emerged as the two newly made arch-enemies began their attacks. Though the beast was a respectable foe, I took swift, fearless action and it was quickly and easily defeated. I had tamed the beast back into a domesticated pet, doing only as it was originally intended to do.

    In order to prevent such rebellion and travesty in the future, I trained the villager on how to properly discipline and care for the now domesticated beast. I left him with the knowledge and the proper tools to keep his family’s stockpiles of food from ever being destroyed again. The villager and his family were eternally grateful and he practically offered his oldest daughter’s hand in marriage as a token of appreciation. As I left his home victorious, I only hoped he’d pay heed to my instructions.

    Was this some sort of animal you ask? I would only tend to describe it as an animal when misbehaving, but no, it was not. Everybody has one of these often friendly devices and the same thing can happen to you and your family if you fail to take notice and learn the necessary information that this young villager learned the hard way. In fact, there are many friendly devices in your home that require tender loving care every so often. If left unattended to for too long it is very possible that they will turn on you and the situation can get very ugly; even uglier than the story I just told you.

    So what was it living in this nice family’s home that turned so villainous and destroyed all of their food? It was that which was originally supposed to keep their food safe from spoilage, insects and other hungry animals; their refrigerator. If you’re not careful, it may happen to you too.


    So, if your usually domesticated appliances start giving you a fuss and you happen to live in or near the village of Lubbock, TX - head no other place than to and summon the brave knight to bring your appliances back to order. If you're elsewhere, go to and The Alliance of Appliantology may be able to help you to kick swift appliance butt!

  10. Smashycomman's Blog

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    The people were happy. They had not a care in the world. They thought their beloved appliances would always behave. They woke up in the morning to the quiet hum of refrigerators, keeping their daily meals nice and fresh. They used washers and dryers to clean clothes to pristine condition. They used the microwaves to heat their food quickly and efficiently. They thought the appliances would always be there for them, always making their lives easier.

    .....They thought wrong.

    Suddenly, one day, as if from nowhere, the appliances attacked!

    The Washer began spewing water all over their beautiful laundry rooms:


    The Dryer began spitting fire and smoke everywhere:


    Microwaves took to the skies, shocking the citizens in horrible flocks:


    Fridges stopped cooling the food, turning it into gookus, and then spewed noxious odors into everyone's faces:



    Have no fear, good people! Your heroes are here!


    The Alliance of Appliantology

    "Fighting atrocious appliances with aptitude!"

    This Troop of Techs scour the land, searching for any disobedient appliance, doing battle with them, and turning them back into the good machines they were made to be!

    First up, we have the Appliance Technician himself, Walter:


    Walter is a monkey. His weapon is a katana, mixed with a flashlight. Good for slashing and scaring off those appliance monsters who are afraid of the light.

    Next is Weswayne, or just Wayne:


    Wayne is a seahorse, wielding a screwdriver-shooting crossbow. Nothing wrong with a ranged weapon!

    Here's Scottthewolf, or more appropriately, Scott the Lion:

    Scott The Lion

    Scott is smartly using meter leads, one of a tech's most powerful tools, he's using them as axes, but I guess that gets the job done!

    Here's some guy named Smashycomman, or just Smashy if you're confused on what a "comman" is:


    He uses a giant screwdriver as a warhammer. There's a better use for that, kid!

    Don't forget about DanInKansas, or maybe just Dan:


    Dan is a beaver, who uses a shield and spear with pliers on the end. Stick 'em with the pokey end!

    Last, but certainly not least, is our very own DurhamAppliance, who's gonna go by the very serious name of Durham:


    Durham is the highest-ranking member of the group so far. Yes, he's a pink unicorn, but don't let that make you think he won't smack yer teeth out with his mages' staff.

    Our citizens are saved! With their incredible knowledge of the inner-workings of these dastardly monsters, the Alliance of Appliantology takes them down one-by-one, turning them back into the hard-working and wonderful machines they should be. The citizens are very thankful! The day is saved!

    Want to be in the Alliance? Here's one way:


    Ok, so, I decided to do this after making a "What animal would you be?" thread on the 40-watt club sub-forum. What started as just a dumb question got me thinking about how fun it would be to actually draw these guys as these animals... then one thing lead to another and here we are. This took about 2 months or so. Having a kid makes it so you really don't have much time anymore! Anyway, hope you guys like it!

  11. tpoindexter's Blog

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    I was talking with another tech this morning about checking RPM. this brought up the subject of strobes. As we were

    discussing strobes it occurred to me someone had probably created an app with RPM already. Shazaaam!!! :woot:

    Here's a app that will allow you to test RPM on fans. You can also test motor rpm, if, you place a mark on the shaft.

    To check fan speed just dial it in till the fan appears to be not moving at all. That'll give you your RPM.

    Same with a motor if you mark the shaft. When the mark appears to no longer be moving you've got the RPM.

    I'm not really sure if this is the correct use of this Blog thingy, but, bet I'll find out sure enough!! Yeeehaw!!!

    Huh... I hope I wasn't the last person on earth to figure this out!

  12. Miele produces the best dishwashers on the market today. They are high end machines...very quiet, they wash well and last many years beyond the life span of a lesser quality brand. However, like all machines they do break down. One of the most common failures to occur on a Miele dishwasher is the Water Proof System (WPS). That's that mysterious grey box under your sink. What is that thing?


    The WPS is a dual water inlet valve. The redundancy ensures that if one valve fails to close the other will, greatly reducing the chance of flooding your kitchen. That brass part on the left attaches to the house plumbing, the box contains the two solenoids and the gray tube contains the water intake hose, the wiring and outer sleeve. When the electronic calls for water the solenoids open and the water flows through the intake hose and into the dishwasher.

    The outer sleeve acts a protection against leaks. If the solenoids leak the water will flow along the outer sleeve and into the drip tray in the base of the dishwasher. When enough water accumulates the float switch will be activated and the water intake will stop. The drain pump will also be activated until the machine is unplugged or the water is no longer present in the drip tray.


    The inlet to the WPS contains a filter and a restrictor. The filter stops large debris from entering the system and the restrictor ensures correct water pressure. The filters often get clogged and can be easily cleaned.


    The Miele dishwasher service manual states:

    The WaterProof System (WPS) consists of a number of interdependent safety features to provide protection against water leakage.

    1. Protection against solenoid valve leakage: Each water intake is controlled by an inlet valve. If this valve cannot close properly due to some defect or blockage by a foreign object, a second inlet valve ensures that the water supply is shut off.

    2. Protection against water intake hose leakage: If a leakage occurs, water flows along an outer hose sleeve surrounding the intake hose to the drip pan. Here a float switch then acts to switch off a microswitch which closes the inlet valves to cut off the water supply.

    3. Protection against dishwasher overflow: If some defect has caused the water level in the appliance to rise so that it overflows into the drip pan, and the water quantity sensor has also failed, the float switch is activated. This switches off a microswitch which closes the inlet valves to cut off the water supply. At the same time the drain pump is activated.

    4. Protection against drain pump failure or blocked drain path: In this case the water level in the appliance rises until it overflows into the drip pan where the float switch is activated. This switches off a microswitch which closes the inlet valves to cut off the water supply.

    Thanks for reading.


    RD Appliance Service, Corp.

    RD Appliance Blog

  13. Here's a Thai-inspired chicken soup that is easy to make and bursting with flavor! It's healthy comfort food with an Asian twist.



    • 2 tablespoons coconut oil, ghee, or butter
    • 1 onion, chopped
    • 1-2 pounds uncooked chicken breast, diced
    • 1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped fine
    • 4 cloves garlic, minced, divided
    • 1 quart chicken broth (I use either homemade or a box of low sodium, no added MSG.)
    • 1 can coconut milk (look for this in the Asian/Thai section of the grocery store. I prefer regular, not "lite".)
    • 1 lime, juiced, divided
    • ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
    • 4 scallions, chopped
    • ½ bunch cilantro, chopped
    • salt, to taste
    • optional: Thai fish sauce, cooked rice


    Heat a soup pot over medium high heat, then add the coconut oil. Saute the onions with a little salt for a few minutes, then add the chicken chunks with a little more salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until chicken is just cooked through. Add the ginger and half of the garlic towards the end of this.

    Stir in the broth and bring to a boil, then stir in the coconut milk, half of the lime juice, and the red pepper flakes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for at least 15 minutes (longer is fine, too).

    Turn off the heat, and add salt to taste (depends on the amount in your chicken broth). Stir in the rest of the garlic, the scallions, and most of the cilantro (leave a little aside for topping individual bowls). Add the rest of the lime juice if desired. Cover and let sit off-heat for 5 to 10 minutes, then serve.

    Great served over rice. Add a few drops of fish sauce to your serving to knock the flavor out of the park!

  14. somerspoint

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