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  1. Yesterday
  2. Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Samurai's Big Three Troubleshooting Secrets

    I hear that a lot-- poor guy! What's funny is that neither me or Mrs. Samurai see it.
  3. Rhubarb Tau

    Samsung Fridge 28HDEDTSR FD Mode

    Yep, rD should run a forced defrost on the Ref. only. Yep, it'll ding constantly while in forced defrost. It will time out on its own, after 30-45 minutes If your Ref. evaporator is frosting up constantly , forced defrost may buy you some time, but won't solve the underlying problem. Either call a professional , or carefully remove the evaporator cover after thoroughly defrosting, check and/or replace the Defrost Sensor (the one clipped to the evaporator tubing with a plastic clip), and check whether the defrost drain is frozen or plugged
  4. Terry.

    GE Dryer Timer repeated failure

    I have an electric GE dryer that takes this same timer. It’s 5 yrs. old and Replaced this timer twice and it just won’t turn even with Pliers now....any suggestions??? Sad girl :(. O
  5. I have had two units work fine for 3 summer months, then when I restarted them in the Spring the compressor would not turn on. Cleaning the sensor did nothing The unit was replaced by Electrolux but now the replacement unit is malfunctioning as well. There is something like a slow refrigerant leak in these units, and I would ALWAYS try to get a retund and buy a different brand.
  6. Budget Appliance Repair

    Samurai's Big Three Troubleshooting Secrets

    Your Son-of-Samurai on the far right looks like your younger twin!!!!😎
  7. Treydiggity

    LG Dishwasher LDS5040ST Error

    It seems that the door is not latching properly I backed the top mounting screws out a quarter of a turn like sone have advised but nothing then I gently lifted up on the front panel of the door and the thing started working They should have a light for door not latched properly
  8. MrApplianceMatt

    Crosley CW20P6AC washer won't run, just buzzes

    Does it fill with water? What do you mean when you say back of the washer? The buzzing sound could be coming from a faulty water inlet valve as they are just electromagnetic solenoids mounted to the inside of the rear wall on the right hand side.
  9. Nice catch! Thank you for updating your repair. 😀
  10. For reference, I believe this is the same controller (AKA: Timer) used in the Thermador REF30, RES30 as well as my RED30V
  11. I still don't fully understand the heating element wiring on this although I had read about the relays having issues so I disassembled the controller and sure enough, found a cold solder joint on the bake relay. I re-flowed it and we have heat in the bake element again. Here's a picture of the bad solder joint:
  12. Disclaimer: We're in a rental with a slightly kooky landlord so I probably shouldn't open this thing up in case he notices. He's overseas and unreachable for the next year and a half so thought I'd try here as my Mom would really like to wash our sheets before we move out 😂 This is the second time the machine has done this, the landlord fixed it last time in around ten minutes but I didn't get to ask what he'd done as I was at school. Trying to start the machine results in a horrendous electrical sounding buzz from the back of the washer. The electrical outlet for it is shared with the (still working) dryer which appears to be the same age. I tried switching plugs but got the same buzz. I've also reset the breaker to no avail.
  13. I am trying to troubleshoot our thermador RED30v all electric oven. The bake element is not heating, the broil will warm slightly for the pre-heat function but zero heat on the bake. The bake element tests about 30ohms. The Red wire from the back of the controller mark BA on the controller has 240 when in bake and there is 240v at the bake element. It seems there is no return path for the circuit. Can someone help me understand this circuit? With the oven off, I did a continuity test from the element to the controller, the red wire is good but I cannot determine where the other side of the bake element goes. Both wires are red at the element. Is the return path through one of the two relays? I've heard about these relays failing causing this same no Bake element heat symptom. I am mostly looking at the BR,BA,L1,COM and neutral pins. The thick black wire on post L1 seems to be power in, the thick red wire on post BA seems to be power out (energized when bake is on) on has continuity to the back element on one side. I cannot find a wire with continuity to the other side of the back element which is confusing me. Any help on this is much appreciated. Thank you. (
  14. Last week
  15. Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Repair2000.com Screenshot

    This is a current screenshot from the website http://repair2000.com - which is run by Jim Campbell, aka, the Virtual Repairman and now a "trainer" with PSA. Back in the day, he had a popular site. But things are always changing on the internet and he failed to change with the times. Now he's butthurt and blames everyone else but himself. This is how losers roll. Yet he has the gall to accuse me of being about the "almighty dollar." LOL!
  16. Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Team Samurai Quaffing a Cold One in Nafplion, Greece

    That Zeos beer was so good under that hot Nafplion sun! If you've never been to Greece, forget Athens-- it's a big, stinky city like any city. Nafplion is the place to go. About 2 hours west of Athens. Very reasonable rentals and inexpensive but excellent food. You could spend two solid weeks there and never get bored.
  17. Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Samurai's Big Three Troubleshooting Secrets

    It's tough for appliance techs today. Our biggest competition is from cheap replacement machines. The proliferation of pricey electronic boards in appliances means that if you can't quickly do a slam-dunk diagnosis, you are at risk of losing customers and your profitability. Meanwhile, electrical troubleshooting is largely a lost science. What exactly have we lost? The Old Skool troubleshooting techniques that us old timers learned way back. And guess what: these same Old Skool troubleshooting skills still apply to modern, computer-controlled appliances! There's a good reason for that: because there is no other way to troubleshoot ANY electrical circuits in appliances. The Big 3 troubleshooting secrets I'm going to talk about in this post are foundational principles that will always apply to any electric circuit, no matter how many control boards the appliance has. If you understand just three things, I guarantee you can successfully troubleshoot ANY appliance electrical problem: The distinction between voltage and voltage drop How loads and switches function in circuits How electrons move around a circuit Let's take 'em one at a time: Voltage vs. Voltage Drop Understanding this distinction is key to correctly interpreting what your volt meter is showing you when you make a measurement. For example, in this video where I showed troubleshooting an inop evap fan in a jazz board refrigerator, the correct diagnosis entirely hinged on whether I understood the voltage measurement on my meter as voltage or voltage drop. Voltage is just the difference in electrical potential between two points. It's called "potential" because voltage creates the potential for electrons to move. Electrons WILL move in response to this voltage difference, always seeking the relatively more positive voltage, IF there is a complete circuit between those two points and the power supply. Voltage is the prime mover in any circuit; it is the first cause for everything else that happens in that circuit. Voltage Drop, on the other hand, is an effect produced when a voltage difference forces electrons through the resistance of a load. The supply voltage is said to be "dropped across the load." If there are loads in series, the supply voltage will drop across each load in direct proportion to the resistance of that load. The sum of the voltage drops will always add up to the voltage supply. Understanding voltage vs. voltage drop is key to making the correct conclusion based on what your meter is showing you and you can almost always avoid unnecessary disassembly and do all your troubleshooting from a convenient location, just as at the timer or control board. Loads and Switches In appliance repair, we are troubleshooting very simple circuits: just loads and switches. "Simple" used here is a technical term. It means that we don't deal with reactive circuits where voltage and current are out of phase with each other. Yes - there's a very deep rabbit hole with electronics that involves reactive components like capacitors and inductors which have complex effects in the imaginary plane (I'm not making this up!) and we need to use the j-operator (also called the i-operator, same thing) to vectorially add the real effects to get the resultant. Fortunately, in the circuits appliance techs troubleshoot, we are only dealing with real voltage and current. That's why the circuits we deal with are called "simple". Even the circuit boards we deal with just function as software-controlled switches for various loads around the appliance. The software control doesn't change the fact that a switch is still just a switch and functions the same way in all electric circuits. If you understand how loads and switches each function and work together to do useful work in appliances, you're a third of the way to troubleshooting mastery. How Electrons Move Around a Circuit A long time ago, the movement of electrons was given the unfortunate name "current". I say unfortunate because many techs take this to mean it moves like water. It does not. Electrons have nothing to do with water. Just forget about that whole silly analogy. You need to understand what those electrons actually are and why they move the way they do in a circuit. This is all settled science and, for the types of circuits we work on, electron movement is completely described by simple Ohm's Law equations. Electricity is neither visual (you can't see it) nor intuitive (you can't understand it or predict its behavior by intuition, gut feel, or beliefs). Electrons move in accordance with very specific rules (Ohm's Law) that you need to understand. So you have to spend some time learning the basic principles, which we teach in the Fundamentals of Appliance Repair course at Master Samurai Tech and also in the Webinar recordings here at Appliantology. Your path to mastery If you are motivated and disciplined, you don't even need to enroll in a training course at Master Samurai Tech. If you are a premium tech member here at Appliantology, just make it a habit to watch one webinar recording every weekend and ask me questions if you're confused about something. It's a killer deal! Not only do you get tech support and service manuals here at Appliantology, you get in-depth, high quality training taught by someone who knows his stuff like few others in the trade today. However, many of us need (or prefer) a more structured course of training, broken down in more detail, along with quizzes and exams to help keep us accountable. If this is you, then enroll in our courses at the MST Academy (starting with Fundamentals). We are not teaching anything new, or pointy-headed, or academic At Master Samurai Tech and in the many webinar recordings here at Appliantology, I am teaching the same principles of electricity and circuits that technicians have been learning for 50 years or more. Believe it or not, I've had guys try to "agree to disagree" with me about basic electrical concepts, as if it's a political discussion we're having on Facebook. No, we're talking settled science, physics, proven, repeatable, taught the same way all over the world because electricity works the same way all over the world. It will be taught the same way whether you learn it in the Navy, any physics or engineering courses, or at Master Samurai Tech. How do I know this? Because I was trained on basic electricity and electronics in the Navy and then troubleshot computer-controlled radar systems down to the failed component on an electronics board. I also have two engineering degrees, one a Masters, and am a licensed professional engineer in the state of New Hampshire. During my engineering career, I designed hazardous waste remediation systems and industrial ammonia refrigeration systems for large food plants. (If you're one of the morbidly curious, you can read my background here.) So I am not some hack at a keyboard posting my own made-up ramblings on a website. I am also not saying this to brag. I didn't discover all this on my own - I know what I know because I had some great teachers and I worked hard to learn what they were teaching because I knew it would help me be more successful. I’ve also spent more than 20 years now helping other techs online, so I know where your pain points are, and I've figured out what you need to know and how to communicate it most effectively to you. Unfortunately, with some guys this is like casting pearls to swine because they're so caught up in their own ego or blinded by envy that they can't be helped. They can't admit that they have knowledge gaps. It’s a pig-headed pride thing. But if you are one of those techs who values your success over your ego, and you want to understand how circuits really work and how to troubleshoot, we teach you the real thing just as it is taught to real technicians at any legit institution around the world.
  18. Mr Stupid

    Samsung Fridge 28HDEDTSR FD Mode

    Oh, and does it ding like that until you take it out of the mode? Will it exit the mode on its own?
  19. Mr Stupid

    Samsung Fridge 28HDEDTSR FD Mode

    Finally. I guess I was trying too soon after touching other buttons, among other failed attempts. I'm also seeing what looks like an rD mode. Is this a refrigerator only defrost mode?
  20. Appliance411 has a handy page for Kenmore OEM codes: http://www.appliance411.com/purchase/sears.shtml They also have a very useful page for mfg date based on s/n http://www.appliance411.com/service/date-code.php
  21. Rhubarb Tau

    Samsung Fridge 28HDEDTSR FD Mode

    For RF28HDEDTSR/AA , the FD mode should still be top left and middle right. It's pretty unusual to have a bad touchpad, but they're typically pretty finicky about timing. You have to pres the two buttons at the exact same time (there shouldn't be any beep if pressed simultaneously), and hold them for about 20 seconds (a LONG time). Entry also won't work if you've pressed any buttons in the last 45-sec. to 1 min.
  22. So I have one of these junky Samsung fridges with the bi-weekly freeze over of the evaporator coil. I have seen there is a FD mode available (pressing top left and middle right buttons) but I can't get my fridge to go there. I can't even get it to enter the demo (pressing left top and middle buttons) mode. Is my touch pad trash too or do I have the wrong button combinations? At this point I'm better off with a giant Coleman cooler and daily bags of ice than using this thing.
  23. Jmiller117

    Looking for Bosch Stacking Kit WTZ 1600

    If anyone back out of purchase of WTZ 1601, I will take both!
  24. We have the ice under freezer drawer problem now. Will try a quick fix until our "guy" can come to take a look. Thanx for the info.
  25. Again a little late. 111 is vendor coding for Deawoo.
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