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File Name: GE Dual Evaporator Beverage Center Refrigerators Minimanual File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 16 Apr 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Created Date: 11/17/2006 Publication #: 31-51606 PSC23PSSASS PSC23PSSBSS PSC23PSSCSS PSC23PSSDSS PSC25NGSABB PSC25NGSACC PSC25NGSAWW PSF26PGSABB PSF26PGSAWS PSF26PGSAWW PSH23PGRCBB PSH23PGRCCC PSH23PGRCWW PSH23PGSABV PSH23PGSACV PSH23PGSAWV PSH23PGSBBV PSH23PGSBCV PSH23PGSBWV PSH23PGSCBV PSH23PGSCCV PSH23PGSCWV PSH23PSRCSV PSH23PSSASV PSH23PSSBSV PSH23PSSCSV PSH23PSSDSV PSH25MGSABV PSH25MSSASV PSH25NGSABV PSH25NGSACV PSH25NGSAWV PSH25SGSASV PSS26PSSASS PSW23PSRCKSS PSW23PSSAKSS Click here to download this file

Greetings, I have a GE WSM2420TAZWW Stackable Electric Washer/Dryer that takes 2 cycles of dry time to dry clothes. I have performed the following checks, but still haven't resolved the issue. Appreciate your insights! Cleaned the vent and also had the roof outlet vent inspected. All checks out OK Replaced the thermal fuse(WE4X857) and cycling thermostat(WE4X856). Upon inspection of the old parts I think they were actually OK. Verified continuity across the heater element terminals(will check resistance next time) Confirmed continuity across the thermostat on the heater element box(I believe this is the hi-lo limit thermostat). This thermostat has 2 terminal connectors and cuts off at 200 degrees. After performing the above fixes, when I turn on the dryer, the drum turns and I can see that the heating element turns on as I can see glowing coils from inside the dryer however clothes are not drying in one cycle? Is it possible that the heating element is marginal and on its way out? I wish I took a photo however the glow is very subtle and not very bright? I'm assuming that the timer and centrifugal switch is OK since I see the heating element turning on? I have a heater element on the way as well as a hi-lo thermostat, but wanted to know if I should be checking anything else. Thanks In advance for your expert opinion.

Manufacturer: GE Type of Appliance: REFRIGERATOR Model Number: GSHS6HGDSS Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): YES Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): YES I NEED THE TECH SHEET THANKS VERY MUCH

When I run the wash cycle it has a periodic grinding sound. Water does fill up and come out of the arms, and it does drain when I cancel the cycle. Any idea? Sounds like it is from the bottom somewhere.

GE GFWS GFWN GFWH GFW4 Washer Service Manual View File Models: GFWS1705H GFWS1700H GFWN1600J GFWN1300J GFWH1200H GFWN1100H GFW400SCK GFW450SPK GFW450SSK PUB 31-9261 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 02/27/2017 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

GE 2017 & 2018 19, 21, 25, 27 Cu. Ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerators Service Manual View File GNE21FMKFF GNE21FMKGF GNE21FSKFF GNE21FSKGF GNE25JGKFF GNE25JGKGF GNE25JMKFF GNE25JMKGF GNE25JSKFF GNE25JSKGF GNE27ESMAF GNE27JGMAF GNE27JMMAF GNE27JSMAF GWE19JGLAF GWE19JGLGF GWE19JMLAF GWE19JMLGF GWE19JSLAF GWE19JSLGF QNE27JBMAF QNE27JSMAF XNE25JGKBF XNE25JSKBF PUB 31-9296 Submitter MVrepairs Submitted 02/25/2020 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Over the past year when we shut the door of our GE Advantium 120 the interior light sometimes stays on. It's a little frustrating. Sometimes you an open the door and close it with the same force and the light goes off. Sometimes a little more force is required.Very inconsistent. I purchased a replacement door hook (GE WB10X10021 Microwave Door Hook) Very easy to put in; unfortunately it did not stop the light from staying on when we close the door. The spring was still in tact when I took the door off. The only win from replacing it is the door seems to shut a little smoother. Any suggestions what might be the issue?

I read here weeks back about how fridge doors, due to weight/time and use can wear out load bearing cams/washers. It seems my zis has some problem with the door. It can be swung shut without binding, but if not done hard enough it'll stop about 1-2" from sealing. sometimes when I open the door I hear a clink of metal on metal coming from the area of the bottom door hinge. I id'd that sound as one of the metal plates ( the left end of the long guy in this: https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Hinge/WR02X11211/944904?model=909936) . I can easily clink that plate with my hand by wiggling it. It moves easily up and down on the inserted spindle The equivalent part on the freezer door does not. I'm willing to tackle it my self. The effort seems straight-forward enough - but what parts are recommended? Do I have the correct one linked above? Ouch. I was wondering if the spring provides/ed some sort of tension (like a return on most any door), and it broke. At least I don't have to guess which part to get if I go with that part group. Does any of this make sense? Any other ideas? If I need to I'll remove the door to get a better look before ordering... thanks, samurais.

GE Refrigerator Installation instruction for main board WR55X10942 View File PUB 31-45417 Submitter Vance R Submitted 02/02/2020 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

In this first video, we troubleshoot a warm beer compartment (fresh food) in a Frigidaire Gallery french door bottom mount refrigerator. The video illustrates the importance of following a cardinal rule of troubleshooting: Fix the obvious problem first. In this case, the customer simply reported that the FF compartment was warm but the freezer compartment was good. We verified these temperatures upon arrival. But then the customer points out that the lights in the FF compartment were stuck on and melted a hole in the liner at the top-- you'll see this in the video. So, in keeping with step one of the Ten Step Tango™ troubleshooting procedure, what is our problem statement? Warm FF compartment? Or... It may have started out that way but now, with this new observation, the problem statement evolves to "lights in the FF compartment stuck on." We then show how to verify this in diagnostic mode and using the video record function on the your iPhone. Then we show how to use the schematic on the tech sheet to deduce the cause of the problem. BTW, we had already tested the door switch in diagnostic mode and it was correctly reporting the open/closed status to the UI so we ruled that out. This case study reveals how imperative it is for the sharp shooter tech to avoid getting tunnel vision based on the customer problem statement and to look for and respond to realtime observations at the service call. In this next video, we take you inside the defective damper assembly in a GE Profile (Arctica series) side by side refrigerator and shows you a common way these dampers fail, allowing too much cold air into the beer compartment. If you want to master the art of refrigerator repair with a high first call complete rate and satisfied customers, then remember to enroll in the Master Samurai Tech Academy's Refrigerator Repair course.

File Name: GE JGS650SEF1 Range Minimanual File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 17 Oct 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper PUB 31-17074_99BE Click here to download this file

My GE spacesaver (JVM1430BD) stopped working in the middle of microwaving and blew the inline fuse. After some digging and testing, it turns out the capacitor was bad (continuity between the two sides). I ordered a new one with nearly the same specs (2100wvac and 0.86uF on old vs 2100wvac and 0.91uF on new). When the part came it was about 0.5" shorter than the old one but otherwise fit into the holder etc. I installed it and turned the microwave back on...everything worked again. I microwaved some water and it heated it just as expected in the same amount of time as before the capacitor went out. An hour later I was in the kitchen and noticed a very soft hum. It was coming from the microwave and was very soft. The only reason I heard it was because the fridge had stopped its cycle and everything was dead silent in the kitchen. I took the cover off thinking it was the new capacitor or the diode. The sound actually seems to be coming from the HV transformer. While the microwave still had power to it, I went ahead and unplugged the diode from the capacitor for a few seconds wondering if maybe the old diode was bad and drawing current. Humming stayed the same with the diode attached or not. I re-tested the microwave function and everything still works as expected. Before I installed the new capacitor I had checked resistance for the HV transformer and it was appropriate. I also checked the magnetron for continuity etc. and everything seemed in order. I was convinced that the only thing that went bad was the capacitor. Any thoughts on why the HV transformer is humming. Again, it is very soft but I am convinced that it is louder than it was before the switch. Could the diode be bad despite the contiued hum when I disconnected it? Is the new capacitor not functioning properly? Is the shortened length or minor discrepancy in uF to blame? Most importantly, is a humming transformer dangerous/a risk? It just sounds like a piece of electrical machinery working but it is louder than before the fix. Thanks!

GE GTUP270EM4WW Washer Sounds During Cycle, Water and/or Oil Marks On Cabinet Base Service Bulletin View File PUB HL11-14 Models: GTUP240EMWW GTUP270EMWW GTUN275EMWW GTUP240GMWW GTUP270GMWW GTUN275GMWW Submitter coolhandluke Submitted 12/27/2018 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

GE ZV750SY4 Vent Hood Minimanual View File PUB 31-20762 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 03/30/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper

GE PT9200SL2SS Wall Oven Mini Manual View File PUB 31-17244 Submitter Adirondack Bob Submitted 11/09/2019 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

GE GNW128SSM0WW Washer Mini Manual View File PUB 31-16936 Submitter Captain Dunsel Submitted 11/06/2019 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper