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Hi, folks, my drain sink drains rather slowly, but my washer drains rather quickly. It does stop after a certain point to allow the sink to catch up, but only after a few gallons have found their way to the floor (not all the time, just under very interesting conditions, like washing a comforter). Anyway, before I go crazy trying to make a hack using a float switch, is there a built-in way to reprogram the unit to drain less water before pausing? Arigato!

The problem is the washer spins and halts, spins and halts, endlessly on most dial settings, regardless whether the lid is open or the dial is pulled. The only way to stop it is to unplug the machine. (It will fill with water on the CLEAN setting.) Here's a video I took of the problem. What I've done so far, all with no effect: Replaced the timer. Replaced the motor and motor switch. Replaced the entire wire harness. Replaced the lid switch. Tested the pressure switch (all good). Tested the capacitor (all good). Double-checked that the power outlet works and no fuses are blown. I'm suspicious that it's the transmission. Reasons: I noticed there's oil leaking on the floor. It seems to be coming from the transmission. The original transmission died 6 months ago. I replaced it with a used one on eBay. Process of elimination -- I've replaced nearly everything else; what else could it be? Do you think the transmission is the culprit? Is there any other part I should check first? Thank you!

I recently replaced the rear drum seal of my Kenmore dryer, Model 110.66752500. Prior to repair the timer advanced and the dryer heated. Since the repair, the motor will run and the drum spins, but there is no heat and it will continuously run. Any help would be appreciated.

Manufacturer: kenmore Type of Appliance: refrigerator Model Number: 795.78409801 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes I need the tech sheet thx

Manufacturer: kenmore Type of Appliance: refrigerator Model Number: 106.8559280 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes I need the tech sheet for this model thank you very much

Manufacturer: Kenmore Type of Appliance: Bottom-mount Refrigerator Model Number: 111.73029711 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes Need service manual, tech sheet, schematic, etc...

Full model number: 795.79304.901 My refrigerator's evaporator fan and interior lights are not working in normal operation. As far as I know, everything else works. The passageway between the freezer and refrigerator froze up over time, so when I noticed that the refrigerator was too warm, I removed all food and defrosted the whole thing. After plugging it back in, the interior lights worked again. But after I checked back after a few hours, the refrigerator was still warm. I researched this issue, which suggested that I check to see if the evaporator fan was running. It wasn't. Also, the interior lights stopped turning on again after the freezer cooled down. During my research, I found this Service Manual for a nearly identical model; Mine just doesn't have the door-mounted water dispenser. On page 28, it talks about Test Mode, which is activated using a button on the mainboard. I tried this out, and while test mode 1 was running, the switches for the lights and the lights started working again, and the evaporator fan spun up, just like they were supposed to. So at least I now know that my fan works, and so do the switches and the light bulbs, and that the wiring is intact. Again, as far as I know, everything else works normally. There was ice buildup on the coils, but not that much so maybe it could be explained by the lack of airflow? This assumption is based on what I've read about how a lack of airflow can cause ice buildup inside the freezer. I've heard that the issue might be the defrost thermister or the refrigerator thermister, but I don't know how to check them or replace them. If someone knows more about them, that's really what I need at the moment. How do I check thermisters to see if they work? How would I need to replace them? How would a faulty one explain my symptoms, where both the evaporator fan and the lights don't turn on? I do have a cheap multimeter (it can test for ohmage but not continuity) and a thermometer. Thanks for any and all help.

Fridge: 1.5 year old Side-by-Side Kenmore 51789 (seems to be a Whirlpool model?) Service Sheet: W10670778 A Over the last few days, I’ve noticed my fridge and freezer were slowly getting less and less cold, with the fridge seemingly doing worst at keeping cold. Looking at the freezer, I discovered some frost towards the bottom, right around the vents. I decided to (manually) defrost the fridge by turning it off (from the front-panel, leaving it plugged in). As the fridge was defrosting, I looked for some information online, which all indicate that it’s probably due to the control broad, defrost thermostat, or heater. I opened up the back panel on the freezer to find that the bottom portion (directly behind the vents) was very frozen/frosted, but the top (where the defrost thermostat is) was essentially free of frost. I ran the diagnostic tests from the service sheet (see results below), with the bi-metal test returning “bimetal open”. Since the fridge was already at room temperature, I believe that test to be normal (is that correct? the bimetal is open when the freezer is at room temperature, right?). Since there was still a lot of frost, I tried to initiate “Forced Defrost” and couldn’t get it to work (does the open bimetal prevent the “Forced Defrost” mode?). After a day/night of defrosting manually, I turned the fridge back on and it seems to be working fine/better, although I’m already seeing a little bit of frost/white on the coils (they looked dry when I turned it back on, but maybe they were not). After being back on for about 3 days (and everything being seemingly fine), I ran the diagnostic tests again and got the exact same results (see below), with the bimetal test still showing open. Although I believe this indicates a bad Defrost Thermostat (is that correct?), I’m not sure that’s the case. I wanted to try to bypass the Defrost Thermostat but it’s plugged directly into the outlet, so that would require cutting the wires to do so. I also tried to make the Defrost Thermostat cold by putting frost/ice directly on/around it to make it colder but still got the open result in the test diagnostic. Am I correct that this indicates a bad Defrost Thermostat? Is there a difference between a "Defrost Thermostat" and "bimetal"? Is there a good/foolproof way of testing it? What are my next steps? I’m trying to narrow down the problem as much as possible before committing to cutting wires and/or buying new parts…. As an additional question, I was unsure how to get the “Forced Defrost” to work (step #38 in service sheet) because it says the “command shall be sent at the exit of Service Mode”. Does that mean that I have to select the Defrost Mode (Short or Long) and exit straightaway? or do I need to go back to the step menu before exiting? Diagnostic Tests Results (same results when freezer was at room temperature and when cold): 1) FC Thermistor: O1=Pass 2) RC Thermistor: O1=Pass 3) Evaporator fan motor and Air baffle motor: displays O2 (baffle is closed) and then switches to O1 (baffle is open) 4) Compressor/Condenser Fan Motor: O1=ON 6) Defrost heater/Bi-metal: O2 = Bimetal Open 7) Defrost Mode: I set it to O1=ADC ON as indicated in the service sheet. How would you go about setting it to O2 = Basic Mode (8 hour timer) since it says “The Defrost Mode must be set to ADC ON before exiting the Service Diagnostic Mode”? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Manufacturer: KENMORE Type of Appliance: DRYER Model Number: 110.66652501 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): YES Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): YES I need the tech sheet for this model number thank you very much

Hey, all. Thank you for the help with my (now replaced) washer with the cracked tub. Time for the dryer to act up. So my Kenmore 80 series dryer 110.70832990 runs just fine but has stopped heating. I can see the igniter glow in but the gas doesn’t catch. So far I have flipped the breaker in case it was the outlet, checked that no chuckleheads have shut off the gas, and used a multimeter to check the current at various places in the back suggested by YouTube videos. One of the leads (is this the right term?) won’t come off but angling the multimeter points to hit the metal suggests the current is fine, but I’m not certain if that would be wrong with one wire still attached. Frustrated, I cleared out the lint for the second time in a few months for kicks (not much there) and looked for more information. What do I do next? I found a video that shows the igniter glowing in the same way without lighting which suggested it might be the solenoids but I wasn’t convinced that the person knew what they were talking about, and since it will require removing the top I thought I’d ask here first since I’ve got a broken arm and messing with the drum seems like it will require a helper beyond my very amenable spouse. I soooo wanted it to be the thermal cutoff. All help appreciated.

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I have a 15 something year old Kenmore 253.5569340N refrigerator that is leaking water from the ice maker. It builds up on top of the motor area and also flows onto the top glass shelf and anything stored there. I replaced the water valve this morning and it is still doing it. I did not see a leak in the icemaker when I had it out previously. Where should I check for the leak? I hate throwing money at a 15 year old fridge, but new ones are stupid expensive. Thanks!

If someone could please help me, It would be greatly appreciated. I have a Kenmore 700 series dryer, mod#110,68102310. The dryer turns on and runs for about two minutes then shuts off with error code F3 E2. The thermister and fuse both are new due to neither one having continuity when checked so i replaced them both. Here is where it gets good, the heating element is not coming on. I checked continuity on it and havew about 12.3 ohms. Also i have 120v on BOTH pins. I put my meter ground to the casing and checked each while on. 120 on each...240 on both. HOW CAN THIS BE? I am seriously about to take my frustrations out on this thing. I read that the F3E2 was for the moisture sensor, so i checked it. No short found. No continuity.Someone PLEASE help . Thank you in advance, C.J.

Sooo... I have one of the Kenmore laundry centers (combo washer/dryer). There was a leak above us at our apartment and water dripped and got into our unit. I fixed the washer by replacing the control board. The dryer is not working now. I am getting a constant flashing red led from the control board. When I plug in the unit and move the heat control, I get 3 beeps. I try to start a dry cycle and nothing. I have replaced: thermistor, thermal fuse, power cord to wall, (have tested the outlet and it’s receiving all power), the dryer control panel, and the door switch. im still receiving the flashing red led. It’s not flashing to display a specific error code, but just a continuous flash. im probably missing something small, but any ideas?

Kenmore 110.41932510 Coin-op Washer Tech Sheet View File PUB W10589610 Rev A Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 10/15/2019 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Hi Everyone, I recently purchased a Kenmore Gas Range Model Hi Everyone, I recently purchased a Kenmore Gas Range Model 91136769 https://usermanual.wiki/Kenmore/91136665790.978328865/view The broiler igniter will not glow. I am trying to determine if it is the igniter or the electronic control board. I think I know how to test the igniter, and I can get to some of the wiring under the stove. I am trying to avoid pulling the stove out, because it is heavy. Also, I have it way up on the adjustable feet and don't want to risk bending them. I see wiring coming into a junction box and leaving the box underneath the oven (I've attached pics). I'm trying to figure out where to test either the igniter or the board, to see which may be at fault. Hoping someone might offer some guidance. Thanks! Not sure exactly which model, because the label is damaged, but this is the manual https://usermanual.wiki/Kenmore/91136665790.978328865/view The broiler igniter will not glow. I am trying to determine if it is the igniter or the electronic control board. I think I know how to test the igniter, and I can get to some of the wiring under the stove. I am trying to avoid pulling the stove out, because it is heavy. Also, I have it way up on the adjustable feet and don't want to risk bending them. I see wiring coming into a junction box and leaving the box underneath the oven (I've attached pics). I'm trying to figure out where to test either the igniter or the board, to see which may be at fault. Pics below. Hoping someone might offer some guidance.Thanks!

I have a model 106.89553100 Ice Maker and I am having an issue with it overfilling the water tray. I recently replaced the control board and the water valve and it now is making ice again but it is overflowing into the bin and melting most of the ice. I looked at the area where the pump is located for a water sensor and this model does't seem to have one unless it is mounted some other place I can not see. Does anyone have any suggestion on how to regulate the water flow so it will cut off when full? Thanks for your help!!

Kenmore Elite 795.7206* Refrigerator Use and Care Guide View File Kenmore Elite Grab-N-Go Bottom Mount refrigerator use and care guide. PUB MFL62184424 Submitter Wendell B Submitted 09/05/2019 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper