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Hi, in short, do I need to replace the Fresh Food Damper as well? My story so far: While we were away on vacation our GE Fridge Model:PCE23NHTCFSS SNo.SL423552 failed. We returned to a unit that when powered on there was no action from the fridge apart from the "HRS" light flashed on the temperature control panel in the fresh food section of the fridge. I have a Video of HRS light flashing, if required but for a start here is a photo ---> Hrslight.jpg Having a background in electronics and PCB repair I thought this may be a symptom of a failed power supply, having seen similar symptoms in other electronic equipment. So I removed the electronic control PCB WR55X10556 and as I suspected there was a TOPS24 offline DC switching module used to generate the 12V DC supply to the PCB, initially I thought this would be the fault but it appeared to be operating correctly and something on the PCB was causing it to fold back as it was drawing too much current. On closer inspection an SMD resistor R12? (on what I would normally term the "solder side of the PCB as opposed to the component side) was found to be open circuit. photo ---> SolderSidePCB.jpg This was replaced with one of the correct value (220ohms) and the PCB was reinstalled and when it did it all appeared to fire up ok, the compressor and fans started and the lights came on, for all of about 4 seconds, there was a crackling sound from the PCB and then it went back to the old symptom of only the HRS light flashing. So removed the PCB and inspected it again. Ahh U12, may be the culprit that may have been overloading the DC rail on the PCB. Set the board on the bench and supplied 12 Volt DC using our bench supply to the 5V regulator on the PCB and sure enough U12 started crackling and smoking. Photo --->ComponentSidePCB.jpg Removed this IC and now all appeared happy and the PCB worked using its own DC supply. (Traced tracks on PCB and this IC U12 that is labeled 6287 appears to control the fresh food damper only.) Refitted to fridge and the fridge appeared to fire up all ok. Compressor works, lights work so set temperatures to -17 for freezer and 3 degrees C for fresh food and left for a period of time and the fridge started to become cold so all appeared to be operating ok. Made the following adjustments knowing the damper would not be operating, set damper to about 1/2 way open, took a couple of paper towels and stuffed them into the channel between the freezer and the Fresh Food section and made a hole about the same size as my middle finger in the paper towels. This unit has now been running fine for about a month, including generating ice and the Fresh Food section does not ice up and both parts maintain the temperature set ie -17 and 3. I have checked the 4 wires to the Fresh Food damper and they measure 400 ohms across Pin 1&2 and 3&4 as per I understand they should. The damper door is not broken off or jammed and is able to be moved with the amount of effort I would expect for a stepper motor. Finally to my questions. 1. From peoples experience, should I be replacing the Fresh Food damper as well as the main PCB? From everything I have researched the tests I have done to date indicate the fresh food damper is operational and not the cause of the IC failure. I would replace IC U12 (6287) and test the operation of the damper but it appears this IC is a custom IC. The only information I am able to find on an 8 pin SMD IC labeled 6287 is a DC fan controller and I know for a fact the fresh food damper is a stepper motor. 2. Is there is anyone who is able to provide me with the correct Technical Service Guide for my unit. I have been using GE PUB# 31-9072 01/01, and this is very close and has helped me immensely but I would really like to have the correct guide for our model. 3. While writing this information, I realised I did not have the information or photo of the resistor I replaced. So I removed the PCB from the fridge for the details and a photo, while doing this I noticed the replacement resistor is showing signs of getting very hot so I may have yet another problem with the fridge or it may be isolated to just another problem on the PCB. Is anyone able to enlighten me? 4. Did TechWarsVet or any other person work out the schematic for the control pcb. see forum post --> http://appliantology.org/topic/17368-hotpoint-fridge-hss25gfpj-ww/#comment-124284 If you have read to here I would like to thank you for your time for doing so. If you have some information you are able to share that is able to assist me then I would be immensely grateful. Kindest regards Paul