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Showing results for tags 'pressure switch'.
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I have a Trane XR90 propane furnace that is not working for me. I get 3 flashing lights, which specifies that I am getting a Pressure Switch failure. I have done some troubleshooting and the situation is not getting any clearer. If I check continuity on the two connectors on the pressure switch when the inducer fan starts it DOES trigger, so it is sending the "good to go" signal to the control board. But the furnace never tries to light and I get the three flashes. I also checked voltage on the yellow wire going to the pressure switch and I am seeing 27-ish volts, so the board is sending power to it. I am leaning towards the idea that the control board is bad but I would hate to spend that money if that is not the case. I would really appreciate any insights or help on this issue. Thanks!
Maytag Neptune Washer MAH8700AWW will not pump out water. During the Rinse - Spin Cycle, the washer will fill, tumble, stop with 9 minutes remaining on the time display, then eventually show a ND [ no drain ] code. I put the washer on the Spin Only Cycle, but with water in the tub the washer would not spin. I replaced the pump [ WP34001340 ], but it did not solve the no drain problem. With water in the tub, I disconnected the hose which attaches to the pressure switch and capped the switch's vacuum tube where the hose is supposed to be connected. With the vacuum tube capped, and the washer set on Spin Only it will go into its spin cycle despite there being water in the tub, but the washer still won't pump out the water. I checked the pressure switch for continuity [ WP34001324 ] and it is closed between terminals 1 and 3, but open between terminals 1 - 2, and 2 - 3. My first question is should the terminals on the pressure switch read continuity between all 3 terminals or just 1 and 3? My second question is would a defective pressure switch cause the electric water pump not to turn on, or is this a Control Board issue? Thanks
Hi all, been awhile since I've been on here but I've got one for the experts on "furnace-tology". Strong, gusty 45mph winds typical for Fall here have been messing with my induced draft blower vacuum signal to the pressure switch, especially the cyclonic nature of said winds this year. Shuts the furnace down prematurely when alternating positive/negative pressure waves in the flue mess with the blower vacuum signal from gusts blasting across the furnace exhaust flue outlet above the roofline. Flue terminates approximately 22 feet above the ground, through the garage roof, along the split level exterior wall, through the adjacent eave of the attached main house terminating about 3 feet above the roofline. PVC 2.5 inch diameter. Result: the pressure switch diaphram plunger taps the microswitch toggle just slightly enough to open the circuit making the furnace controller think the draft blower has failed--result, premature flame shutdown and begin another inefficient heating cycle. The flue top has a convex rain cap of course. Draft blower is new last winter. Pressure switch vacuum tests prove ok for possible torn diaphram. Pressure microswitch continuity tests check ok at microswitch. I relocated the pressure switch closer to the draft blower with a much shorter hose a week ago when the wind was blowing thinking that would help with a stronger vacuum signal but particularly bad winds this weekend proved that futile. Tonight it’s calm here for the first time in 4 days and the furnace is completing heating cycles normally. I’m now wondering what I can do to keep gusts from creating pressure waves down the flue or wind-capping the flue. Does anybody know of a flue-cap product for just such a condition? Is there a flue cap made specifically for wind problems like this?
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