Search the Community

Are you a skilled Appliance Repair Technician looking for an exciting opportunity to grow your career? Dynamic Appliance Repair continues to raise the bar for appliance repair service in Arizona, serving Cave Creek, Carefree, Scottsdale, Peoria, and surrounding areas. Why Choose Dynamic Appliance Repair? ✅ Reputation: We're Arizona's most trusted appliance repair service, recognized with the 2023 Most Professional Servicer Award. ✅ Customer-Centric: We value old-fashioned customer service and provide the valley's quickest and most economical appliance repair service. ✅ One-Year Warranty: All repairs are backed by our one-year warranty, the best in the industry! Position Overview: If you are self-motivated, have a knack for troubleshooting, possess strong mechanical skills, and have a clean driving record, we want to hear from you! As an Appliance Repair Technician, you'll accurately diagnose and repair appliances/equipment in the customer's home. You'll provide cost estimates for repairs, ensure the efficient use of materials, and maintain high levels of customer service. Requirements: 1 year of appliance repair experience or Appliance Repair Certification (recent graduates welcome) Strong mechanical skills and attention to detail Must have own truck and tools Must be able to obtain a certificate of liability insurance Excellent customer relations skills Clean driving record Must pass background screening and drug test Apply Today: Join our team and become part of a company where you will be valued and recognized for all your efforts. Dynamic Appliance Repair is an equal opportunity employer, and we celebrate diversity in our workplace. Compensation: $70,000.00 - $105,000.00 per year Learn more about us at Dynamic Appliance Repair Website. Want to be part of a team that values excellence and customer satisfaction? Call TODAY at (480) 590-7322!

I think 162D6295G022 is the model number. I found it underneath a panel in the top of the fridge compartment. I am pretty sure the issue is a defrost problem. I think the heaters are OOS (high) in resistance (I don't know the spec, but they are very oxidized and discolored) and not heating up enough to fully thaw the coils. The timer seems to be working and when I manually turn to defrost position, heaters turn on, but the mid section barely glows if at all. I am having a hard time finding replacement heaters; its the type that has a lower heater, mid heater and upper thermostat all on the same circuit. I bought a replacement heater PN: WR51x442 but its not wide enough to fit the mounting holes; the mounting holes on the replacement are spaced at 6-5/8". The original that I pulled out have mounting holes spaced at 9-1/2". The quartz tube on the replacement is about 7-3/4" and on the original is spaced about 10-1/4". Can anybody recommend the correct replacement PN and source? I'd prefer Amazon, but will take what I can get. Thanks in advance

My ice maker (Daechang DA97-11092B) is completely dead. The test buttom does nothing, no water fill, no motor activity. How can I trouble shoot this to tell if the problem is the ice maker or the main control board. I am ignoring the water control valve, door switch (the lights come on and go off fine), and temperature (-4) for now as unlikely. I would also like to get a full service manual, not the fast start version. Any ideas?

I want to replace my fridge. 23 year old 25.4 CF Kenmore SxS with water and ice in the door with a french door model. My Kenmore has been rock solid for 21 years with the exception of a start relay and door closer shims which were cheap, quick and easy to replace. I haven't ruled out new, but I would prefer used/road tested and realize there are risks. I've looked at a lot of them. New and Used. I don't really care about water in the door, but I do like my ice (crushed) in the door. I am starting to think I may be better off without water and ice in the door as far as problems are concerned. If they're quick, easy and inexpensive problems I don't mind as long as they're not chronic. I can fix those. I saw one Kitchenaid model that had steel roller slides on all the drawers and the freezer. I really likes that feature. Some of the others were just plastic sliding on plastic, and some were nylon rollers sliding on plastic. There seems to be a couple of schools of thought on these water-and-ice-in-the-door units. I've seen small footprint ones in the freezer cabinet, full size ones in the freezer cabinet and some "slim" ones on the back of the freezer door. I've also seen some models with TWO ice makers. One for the in-the-door dispenser and one down below shelling out the crescent cubes. I understand some of them have their own cooling system, and others have freezer air blown up from the bottom. Any advantages or disadvantages to these types? There appears to be pretty good documentation available for most of the mainstream brands, though I've found Samsung to be somewhat difficult to find. Many places don't don't have knowledgeable sales folks. Some of the appliance specialty stores have decent sales folks which are ok as far as features go, but they don't have a lot of info on reliability and customer satisfaction. Hence my posing the questins here. I would welcome any advice/suggestions as far as brand/model/system type reliability and performance. Keeping in mind maintenance (parts availability and pricing) as well. Anything good to look for, anything to steer clear of? Or is this just a crap shoot. Get the one I want with the features I want and "deal with it" ? Thank you.

My Kenmore 795.71013.011 bottom-freezer fridge (here's a picture of the fridge tag with model number) is not cooling (both the fridge and the freezer are warm). Here are the things I have tested and what I have noticed: These things seem to be working fine: The evaporator fan runs fine inside the fridge The evaporate coils do not have frost on them, so the defroster system seems fine The condenser coils on the back of the fridge (inside the back panel near the floor) are clean (no dirt/dust issues) The condenser coil fan is running fine These are the issues I have noticed: The compressor is running on a regular cycle, but it seems to be drawing too little current (anywhere from 0.5 Amps to 0.8 Amps during the cycle) The compressor also does not draw consistent current throughout the cycle. It starts at 0.8 A, goes down to 0.5 A, then back up to 0.8 A before it stops. The compressor makes a strange noise when it stops the cycle (see this video to see the current draw during the cycle as well as the strange noise at the end of the video) The compressor isn't really heating up during operation; it's maybe slightly higher than room temperature The refrigerant lines into and out of the compressor are pretty much room temperature all the time

Refrigerator stoped working and ruined all fools over weekend. Get power, lights, fans all work. Compressor was not running. Pins on compressor range from 5-8 ohms. Ground is good and fan ran when plugged in. Ordered new relay W10197428 TDS2. Replaced w/ original capacitor. Plugged in and compressor started up but relay blew in a few seconds.

Manufacturer: GE Type of Appliance: Refrigerator Model Number: GSH25JSDDSS Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes Found similar mini manuals but no info to confirm they are a match for this model. Thanks for your help!

I have been beating my head against a wall trying to figure out how to get a compatible replacement for my mini fridge's thermostat. Long story short i got gifted this mini fridge and it did not turn on at all. After testing the overload, PTC starter relay and the compressor for continuity, i finally determined that during assembly the company screwed through the sensor coil when installing the thermostat cover. (im not a technician, so this may NOT be the overall cause of the fridge and compressor never even starting) The company does not want it back, and is going to just ship me a new one. BUT if i can fix this, boom, 2 mini fridges. After two days of google searches, i cannot figure out what to replace this thermostat with since the WDF24L-L-EX isn't available anywhere. I don't even understand what the letters and numbers mean. I always end back up to a WPF not a WDF one. Can someone recommend one for me please? Thank you https://www.amazon.com/Antarctic-Star-Refigerator-Compressor-Freestanding/dp/B07DC5H7F1/ref=sr_1_84?dchild=1&keywords=mini+fridge+thermostat&qid=1600276096&sr=8-84

Manufacturer: Kenmore Type of Appliance: Bottom-mount Refrigerator Model Number: 111.73029711 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes Need service manual, tech sheet, schematic, etc...

I have an old Whirlpool fridge — a 1993 model called ET20LKXAN00 which Whirlpool's customer service portal doesn't even remember! — which has a malfunctioning door light switch (part WP2149705). I got a replacement but I can't remove the assembly that covers the switch. It's probably easy but I removed the three screws I could see on the bottom, yanked it back and forth, up and down, and got nowhere! I would very much appreciate any knowledge or ideas on the matter.

Manufacturer: Samsung Type of Appliance: Refrigerator Model Number: RF28M9580SR Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes I'm at the house not even sure how to start diagnose mode. Internal software on the big screen shows that there is no errors. Compressor stop immediately after start. Board blinks 4 pause 4 pause

Manufacturer: FRIGIDAIRE Type of Appliance: Refrigerator Model Number: FGHB2844LFD Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes I need the tech sheet and manual thank you very much

GE 2017 & 2018 19, 21, 25, 27 Cu. Ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerators Service Manual View File GNE21FMKFF GNE21FMKGF GNE21FSKFF GNE21FSKGF GNE25JGKFF GNE25JGKGF GNE25JMKFF GNE25JMKGF GNE25JSKFF GNE25JSKGF GNE27ESMAF GNE27JGMAF GNE27JMMAF GNE27JSMAF GWE19JGLAF GWE19JGLGF GWE19JMLAF GWE19JMLGF GWE19JSLAF GWE19JSLGF QNE27JBMAF QNE27JSMAF XNE25JGKBF XNE25JSKBF PUB 31-9296 Submitter MVrepairs Submitted 02/25/2020 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

New to the forum, tech with 4yrs experience just getting back into the field after 11 years in the military, so playing catch-up on new stuff. On LG refrigerators with the linear compressors with no cooling, I've been consistently reading anywhere between 600-1500 VAC on the CON201 terminals to the compressor, whether the connecter is hooked up or not. Several of my fellow techs have seen this as well. LG says the max VAC output to the comp should be ~180VAC. I've never had any issues with my Fieldpiece meter. Am I doing something wrong or is my meter insufficient for LGs?

Manufacturer: JENN-AIR Type of Appliance: BUILT IN REFRIGERATOR Model Number: JB36NXFXRE00 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): YES Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): YES I need the tech sheet & schematics for model jb36nxfxre00 thank you very much

hello. i have a 14-15 year old LG LRTN22312SW refrigerator with freezer on top. i have a LOT of ice accumulating on the bottom of the freezer and water dripping down into the fridge. i have pulled the back out of the freezer and the coils aren't iced over and the drain seems clear. i poured water down it and heard it splash in the pan at the bottom (I hung a wire extending down the drain hole connected to the heating element just in case it was freezing over. There is no leak from the ice maker which is currently turned off. the water seems to be seeping in from the bottom seam where the back panel meets the bottom of the freezer. i noticed that the insulation on the back of the freezer panel i removed was wet and frozen. i cut off the bottom inch or two of the insulation that was completely frozen. 2 questions: 1. what the heck is causing the water?? is it condensation on the inside of the back panel dripping down? 2. do you think removing ALL the insulation on the back panel would cause a problem? thanks in advance for any help or tips you might provide. I'm REALLY trying to not have to buy a new unit. DS

Manufacturer: GE Type of Appliance: Refrigerator Model Number: GTS16DTHCRBB Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes Looking for a tech sheet or service manual please. Thanks!

GE Refrigerator Service Bulletin - Frost or Ice on Top of Evaporators View File Perceived abnormal fresh food sound levels or insufficient cooling on some 23 cubic foot bottom freezer refrigerators may be related to frost or ice buildup on the fresh food or freezer evaporator. The frost or ice could affect fan operation if the buildup is large enough. Models Affected: CYE23TS, PWE23KG, PWE23KM, PWE23KS, PYE23KS, PYE23PS Serial Range: April 2013 – July 2014 (GA, HA, LA, MA, RA, SA, TA, VA, ZA, AD, DD, FD, GD, HD, LD, MD) August 2014 PUB REF07-14 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 04/13/2019 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper