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lucyluc67

how to install my new adaptive defrost control board

98 posts in this topic

Hi,

Looks like I'll be trying som eof the solutions here.

I blamed the kid for leaving the door open. 8-(

Oh well, I'll pick up a cap. I did hear buzzing one night.

I think it was trying to go into the defrost cycle but could not.

I know it's a defrost problem, no air into the refrig but frezzer bone cold and freezes icecream rock hard.

tech

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

My spelling was horrible in the last post.

Anyway, I picked up the part from a local distributor.

Fridge is unplugged and defrosting.

I'll pull the cover tonight and install the part.

Even though I'm an engineer, I didn't feel like replacing the relay and cap. I'll repair them on the old board and keep it as a spare. The local price for the ADC board was about $60. More than new cap and relay but less than a repair man.

tech

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Hi all,

I posted a message Mon Nov 7th, 2005 12:41.

Sorry for the late update after 4 months. I couldn't start trying it right away, plus, I wanted to observe the results for a while. Yes, I replace the cap, and everything is "cool" now. No more problems so far... only that my vegetables are getting too "crispy".

BTW, I placed a temperature logger inside the fridge and freezer giving me ~5degreesC (~41F) and ~-17degC (~1.4F) average... is this ok?. What should be the regular/normal/popular temperature in both?

Regarding the ADC, thanks RegUS_PatOff for the schematic and guidance (I may try the zeners next time). Thanks to the Samurai for the web site, it's great.

'til next time...

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Your fridge should be below 40F.

Anything above that can lead to bacteria growth. Before defrost mine will swing down from 38F to about 28-30F.

As far as the freezer; how hard do you want your ice cream to be?

tech

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Once again, it's great to find the information you're looking for nearly at the click of a mouse! To misquote from a venerable lyricist,

Once in a while you can get shown the light, in the strangest of places ...

I've been having an on-going battle with defrosting my Jenn-Air JCD2389GES side-by-side, knowing all along that blow-defrosting it was putting off the inevitable. A friend who is a Maytag dealer several hundred miles away sent me an ACD to try to solve the problem. I installed it yesterday, but without the expert guidance here, I'd probably have been scratching my head much longer than necessary trying to figure out where the ACD was located and how to change it. Bon sai! mighty Samurai for once again imparting your wisdom!

In tearing apart the beast, I found folded deep within its bowels an electrical schematic and other diagrams (pictorial wiring guide and refrigerant flow) that may prove useful to those worshipping at this most wonderful of sites. A scanned 72dpi copy of this document is attached for the edification of the uninitiated and those to whom such information is indispensible.

'Tis but a small token of my appreciation and adulation!

JCD2389GES.pdf

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Schematics and tech sheets are always useful. Domo! :dude:

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yea....same problem here. Im going to replace what needs to be replaced.... just wondering.. should i replace the c2 and the relay? they both sound defective/not beefy enough.

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First post here:

 

Great topic and excellent information.  I have a Maytag MSD2758DR (2001).  I have same problem as described many times previously.  Just lost $500.00 in steaks and king crab while on vacation.  Going to try replacing C2 and Relay as I live close to a Fry's here in San Jose.  I will post my results later.

 

Many thanks to Reg for schematic.

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I managed to purchase all the parts to upgrade my ADC circuit board per the posted instructions and all appears well.  However, now I appear to have a new problem.  The freezer is very cold and the beer cooler is luke warm.  I have read many posts about frost blocking the air flow passage to the beer cooler, but this does not seem to be my problem.  I feel plenty of cold air coming from the freezer into the beer cooler at the upper top left corner.  My beer cooler has some fancy meat and produce coolers at the bottom with their own digital thermostats.  These are not cooling down at all.  It has been about six hours now and they are still around 70 degrees.  For comparison a 16 ounce bottle of water I threw in the freezer four hours ago is nearly completely frozen.  Is there a seperate air flow passage for these drawers?  I notice there are two seperate fans for each drawer and they are not running.

:X

I have a side by side Maytag MSD2758DR (2001). 

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I have a Maytag Mod. MSD2756DEW. It is not defrosting and makes the buzzing noise behind the temperature control levers. Before I try to replace the defrost control panel or any of the components, does anyone know if I can replace the electronic control panel with a manual, clock type, defrost control? It seems like that would solve the problem for good if it is possible to do that.

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:jedi:What a great site! Googled myself here, read five pages of this thread, went to Radio Shack, paid $1.29 for a capacitor, did the first bit of soldering I've done since I was a teenager working on an electric guitar, and fixed a Maytag that my wife was planning on replacing. If I could do this, anyone can. Who would think?! Absolutely beautiful. Thanks to all of you! Cool, cool site.

P.S. Not related to appliances but somewhat related to samurai- Go is an incredible game. If you like chess, check out these sites:

http://www.usgo.org

http://kgs.kiseido.com/

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Well, I found out why my beer cooler was not cooling.  Actually, both the beer cooler and the meat locker thawed out after some time.  Thanks to this site, I was able to locate the problem pretty quickly.  My compressor start relay/overload combo had burnt to a crisp.  I am supposed to receive it tomorrow and hopefully will back on line.  I also ran across a post for a technical service bullentin for the beer cooler being warm while the freezer was cold.  I am going to perform this routine as well, to see if it helps anything.  Hard to believe they actually instruct their service repair men to tape up the grill like the front end of a NASCAR race car instead of sending out the later updated part.  Sounds like there should have been a recall! :X

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I am being told by Jenn-air I can use part DEFROST KIT,ENHANCED ADAPTIVE

Maytag Part Number: 12002104 in my jcd2389geb series 11.  Is this an improved part? Will it work?

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Well it has been almost two weeks now and all is well with both sides of my Maytag.  Good thing too, because it was over a 100 today and the beer is still very cold!  Thanks to all that posted the fixes here.  By the way, the tape on the grill really helped to cool things off in the beer cooler side.          :cheers:

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I definitely have the same problem with my Maytag MSD2957AEW, and am thankful for all the good advice on this thread.  I visually inspected the ADC board and found that the C2 was a bit bulged at one end.  Based on what I've heard, seems like that's the culprit.  Am ready to pony up the $55 or so to replace, but like everyone else, want to save a buck where I can.  So...

How involved is the process to solder a new C2 onto my existing ADC board?  (I don't have the tools, etc, but am up for a challenge)

Should I take the old C2 off first?

Thanks...

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Decided not to replace the C2 cap, but rather the whole ADC board on my Maytag MSD2957AEW.  After doing this, I followed advice on this thread about jumping L1 to Test.  When I did this, compressor & freezer motors went off, ADC buzzed, but no action on the heater.  Tried every which way with the jumpering...motors on/off...touching on contacts, and holding connection between for a few minutes.  Nothing.  Figured it must be the heating element and/or defrost terminator, so bought both as a new unit.

After installing the new heater/DTT, did the same jumping trick to try to initiate a defrost cycle.  First, did this when the freezer temp lever turned to OFF.  This produced a click then another click after about a second, no defrost.  I tried this again with the lever set to midway, so that the compressor & freezer fan motors were running.  This produced one click, and the motors going off.  The interesting thing here is that in this second case, I could not turn the units back on by moving the lever from OFF, I had to reset the Referig switch on my main (house) circuit breaker first.   I tried this procedure both with removing the screwdriver from the contacts after hearing the click, and keeping it connected for some minutes afterward.

So, for all I know the system works just fine now, but I can't initiate the defrost and "see it for myself".  Is there any way to be sure here?   I do have an Ohm/Volt meter, but it has the "probe" ends and not the clamp type.  Any measurements I can easily take here?

Help!   :?

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Mr. Ho:

I am no expert, but was able to fix my problem with the information posted.  I am quite sure you wasted your money on the heater element.  The unit never went into defrost cycle after jumping L1 to test, because your freezer was not cold enough to trip your thermostat switch, which is connected to one of the incoming lines to your evaporator.  That is the coil with fins on it in the back of the freezer.  The thermostatic switch  is just that, it is a normally open switch above a certain temperature and closes when under that temperature.  It is inline with one of the power leads to the heater.  Therefore, even if the ADC board is sending power to the heater, unless this switch is closed the heater will not heat up.  I am not sure what the setpoint is, but I am sure it is near freezing.  I suppose you could test by submersing the switch in ice water and then jump L1 to test.  If anyone dissagrees with my assessment, please feel free to correct me.  Good Luck!

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Mr. Ho:

If you are having a hard time getting the compressor to start running after you have everything connected back up properly, please read my posts carefully on this page and see if your compressor overload relay is bad.  If your fridge is similar in age to mine, I would bet it is on its way out.  Simply pull it straight off the compressor and shake it.  If it rattles it is bad.  Mine was visibly burnt as well.  Hope this helps.

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You are exactly correct....it is called a defrost termination thermostat or a bi-metal  or thermal limiter, re-sets usually around 14 degrees or so...good post...;)

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CAG8OR and Pegi,

Thanks for the advice about icing down the DTT.  (I had thought that the jumpering somehow "bypassed" that link).  After icing and jumpering, the defrost heater started sizzling!

If anyone wants to pay the shipping on a good heater/DTT and/or bad ADC board, they're yours.

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I'll pay the shipping for the bad ADC board if you still have it...

let me know or email me...

 

thanks

 

 

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I successfully replaced my ADC last year with the info from this great site.  However, I now have a iceberg growing on the floor of the freezer.  The defrost cycle appears to be working fine, but the drain that leads to the pan below the motor, keeps freezing up.  The water from the defrost drips down to the bottom of the freezer and builds the iceberg.  Anyone seen this?

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All of the time, remove the ice and find the clog in the drain and clear it...

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