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Maytag MFI2568AES Ref. French doors / freezer draw 1.5 years old

50 posts in this topic

    Any help closing in on a problem with a Maytag ref would be great.  I arrive at the customer's house to find the front control board flashing all it lights and displays.  The freezer's evap fan motor is not running, icemaker has stopped, the ice door is repeatedly opening and closing.  I unplugged the unit, waited, then turned it back on.  The controls went back to normal, and the flapping stropped.  However, the compressor had yet to come on.  After a few mins, which I assume is a delay for the compressor,  the unit turns back on and it goes back to its old trick again.  

    Is it the main control board causing the problem?  Why no evap fan motor? I searched around for some tech data, but came up with nothing.  I don't like to change parts on a hunch, so anyone who has come across this before, please help!

Thanks,

Michael

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Had a strong suspicion that was it.  Thanks for confirming!  Have a great weekend.

 

Michael

 

 

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If you have any luck getting the replacement part please let me know your secret. 7 - 10 days has turned into 2 weeks. Between the very expensive paper weight in my kitchen and my wife I'm about ready to pull my hair out and run screaming into the woods. Every time I see that maytag man on the tv just makes my butt wanna chew barbed wire. @%$#@%$^@^%$#$#^%$@!$

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We had the same problem with the Maytag Ice2O MFI2568AES.  One month out of warranty we ordered and replaced (ourselves) the major HV circuit board in the back.  That did indeed solve the problem of flashing lights and clacking ice door.  The only problem is we suspect that when you replace this board you also have to re-enter the factory presets.  The "code" needed is located in the upper right-hand inside of the refrigerator box.  In our case, the code is 0302.  Since there is no keypad upon which to enter this code, we have tried every possible touch pad combination to try to be able to revert to the factory presets, all to no avail.   It has been impossible for us to get instructions on how to do this from Maytag "support", the owner's manual, or on-line. 

On our touchpad display we get the message PE0000 which we can change to PE H2O or PE ICE by pushing the plus and minus buttons on the right-hand side of the touch pad.  In a few moments, however, these last two messages revert automatically to PE0000.  None of the other touchpad buttons work.  The refrigerator is unable to function correctly because its electronic brain is not set to tell it what termperatures, etc. to aim for.  It is possible that the "water" (H2O) and "cube" (ICE) buttons are the key somehow to resetting the touchpad and its associated circuit board to the factory presets.  We have no idea what the "PE" part of the message means.

Does anybody out there know how to reset this machine to its factory presets?

Thanks much,

Barb and Greg in SC

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The PE indicates the control has not been programed for your model.  On the Tech Sheet provided with the unit you will find step by step instructions for programing your control.  I believe the sheet is under the front of the unit on this model. 

 

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[align=left]Well, well!  Wha-da-ya-know!  If you crawl on your belly on the kitchen floor, reach under the right hand side of this unit, and feel around you will actually find a small 5 in. X 5 in. plastic packet stuck to the bottom of the unit--the famous "tech sheets".  It seems to have all the information we need to reset the factory presets IF everything else is working. Will wait until Greg gets home this afternoon to try it all, and will let you know how it turns out.  How sneaky!  This "tech sheet" is not mentioned anywhere in the owner's manual, unless I completely missed it.

Many thanks to the individual who told us where to look.

Who woulda thunk it?  Only a serviceman would probably know to look there.

Barb and Greg in SC

[/align]

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From our point of view it is far better off hidden.  If not, installers and other people who stumble across it tend to throw it out.  They do not know it is worth it's weight in GOLD (or in this case yellow!)  :poison:  to a tech trying to work on the product.

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We are relieved to report that our refrigerator is back to full functioning.  This web site went a long way toward helping us to finish solving our problem.  Now we have all the information we need should the "Chinese"(?) replacement circuitboard fail again!  I hope the designers have made some improvements in the last year and a half.  We are delighted to contribute to the "Beer Fund", and have bookmarked this site so that we can refer to it again as needed.  Thanks, also, for the humorous way in which the site is presented.  It raises spirits which have darkened considerably over whatever frustrating repair problem one is confronting.

Barb and Greg in SC

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[user=4044]Trying to help[/user] wrote:

The PE indicates the control has not been programed for your model.  On the Tech Sheet provided with the unit you will find step by step instructions for programing your control.  I believe the sheet is under the front of the unit on this model. 

 

The instructions for programing the new board are also included in the box with the replacement part.

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[user=8989]Chat_in_RI[/user] wrote:

The instructions for programing the new board are also included in the box with the replacement part.

They were supposed to be, and should be now, but there was a time when that was not happening.  Around the time Nickfixit bought all the Maytag technicians ;) those boards went on back-order.  Almost like A&E scarfed them all up!!  We had a heck of a lot of them on BO for a while.  When they did become available, the sheet was missing, almost like the manufacturer rushed them out and forgot them or they changed venders and forgot to tell them that step!  

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I have a customer who just lost this PCB the day before yesterday. Not sure but probably a result of lightning storm the night before. Unit was even plugged into surge protector but guess that was'nt enough. Marcone says none in stock and no chance for drop ship..(factory on back order)..customer is P.O'd...unit is barely out of warrenty...anyone have one of these boards in stock.......???

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As [user=4044]Trying to help[/user] wrote:

 Almost like A&E scarfed them all up!!  

 A&E has them, and with the instruction sheet too! Kinda makes you go Hmmm...

Maybe Nick does have them all!

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could'nt wait on shipment from China, so i took the board to a buddy who has an electronics repair shop. He took no time in finding that there were 2 small caps on the board that had blown, one fully and one partial. they are on the DC to DC side of the board both 35w 680uf. siting next to each other. It took him about 10 min to find and replace the 2 little   P-ant caps and verify the power supply was still good. of course he had no way of testing the board so I took it back and re-installed.  frig came to life no prob. asked the customer to keep an eye on it for the week-end and if no prob developed i would invoice her next week.  Wheew...that one scared me...:shock::yikes:

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Thanks for the heads up on the repair on the board, just installed my first one for a contract service company and saved the board to check it out, will look at these caps and check them, as I also have another one that failed on a customer the next day with the same symptoms, I will have to check the new vs the old board to see what if visible changes may have been made since they changed the part number on the board. And it does appear they are not many available, GE had next day fedex deliver this to my customer, as she wanted the box replaced, and believe it , was on her porch the next morning..........and the one I received had the programming instructions in the box........John ..

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jabko, let me know what you find on that board if anything..Thanks..J.D.

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Just checked the board on my van,and you are correct,  pulled the two 680uf caps and both read in the area of 11uf and 17mf a far cry from the rated 680uf @ 35v, just ordered some on ebay to replace the originals , let me know how they work out in your install, did the shop that installed the replacement caps use a higher rated voltage or the same 35v on the board, Will let you know next week when the replacement board comes in if there is any difference in the caps or design change that may have been made to correct the problem in the future, Thanks God for those engineers that build these parts, I am greatful for helping in supporting my family, as long as they stay away from designing parts for airlines.

I think they also had the same design failure on the adaptive defrost boards with the caps failing...........on the maytag adaptive defrost unit

Thanks for the heads up, if this works would be a great cost saver and a easy repair to do on the spot....

South Jersey Appliance, Inc........John Bennett

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Jabko,  my electronics guy replaced with the same original rated caps. We'll see how they hold after our next thunder storm....should'nt have to wait long here:? 

 

Thanks all for your continued input.....THIS SITE ROCKS!!!!!!:cool:

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Another reason why I refuse to buy something as important as a refrigerator with electronic controls.

You just never know how long these electronic control boards will last.

I will hang on to my 24 year old Whirlpool refrigerator as long as I can.

If I must buy a new refrigerator it will surely be an el cheapo with mechanical controls.

If I can no longer find one with mechanical controls, I will make sure I take out an extended service plan.

BTW, I am SO glad I left Maytag Factory Service before the layoffs, that way I didn't get suckered into working for A&E Factory Service!

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Now that I had two of these failed I noticed on the new boards that replaced them the two caps in question where from a different manf. so apparently they already are trying to correct the problem on the future units, as a tip it may work on some blinking flashing models, a customer disconnected the ice motor door cable from the small board behind the dispenser disabling the power to the motor and I assume by decreasing the load on the main board the unit stopped flashing and blinking, might be a emergency hold over if someone does not have the main board in stock, it worked for this unit and keep it running, just a suggestion in one of the needed emergencies

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I did the same thing so that my customers could get some sleep while I waited on the repair of the board, that dispenser door is noisy!!!!!

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Just installed a corrected board, installed new 680uf caps and installed today and seems to be running fine, also the code was the same on this board when it was removed 0302 so there was no need to reprogram, so far all three failures I have seen use the same code on the serial plate.

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I just had the same flashing lights and door flapping crazies only when the compressor kicked in.  Started 3am of course.  A scant 3 months after the warrantee expired, also of course. 

After locating this site, I figured that if the HV Control Board needed replacing, I could try the fix from this forum and see what happens. 

Once opened up, you could tell the caps we going bad as the tops dome up and they were hot to the touch while others were not.  That's how electrolytic caps go bad.  They heat up, actually expand, lose capacitance, results in the power supply becoming very noisy (especially under load), makes a mess of microcontroller circuits which then tend to create false logic and/or reset themselves randomly.

Interesting tidbit, looking at the board, the caps are wired in parallel so it's an effective 1360uF of filter capacitance on the DC supply side.  Thus any single or combo of caps close to that should work.  I bought a 1000uF and 470uF 35v 20% tolerance cap for under $4 from Radio Shack (1470uF total - better to err on the high side) which is close enough considering the tolerance for filter caps and installed them.

Voila !  As described by others here, the problem was solved.  You can add my board to the list of "experiments" now successfully running Maytag Ice2o boxes.

I have pics I can show before and after if interested.

I've also joined and added the suggested token to the fund to help keep this forum going. 

Thanks guys.

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The boards I rebuild I used the same 680mf caps based on 50volt just for a extra margin of protection, never checked the supply voltage to see how close they where to the rated 35volt originals , so far the one I installed seems to be doing well at this ponit, and as I mentioned the manf. has changed the brand name it appears on the replacement boards, just possibly cheap caps were used in the original manf. glad to see it work for you also.................and you are correct about the expansion on the tops from the swelling a easy way to idenify the problem.....John

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i awoke at 100am this morning to the dreaded sound of the ice2o ice dispenser flapper, flapping adnauseum.  after reading the posts i disconnected the ribbon cable located under the upper door hinge and was able to get back to sleep.  during the day i procured 2 capacitors from radio shack, 470uf and 1000uf, both 35vdc for around 3 dollars.

after dinner i performed the lobotomy without a hitch.

detailed before/after pics are available on request, they are too big to upload here.

thanks very much to everyboby for the posts.  i am now a novitiate in perpetuity.

 

 

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