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Sub-Zero Refrigerator - Model 650/S - SN M1551539 - IceMaker Inoperable

7 posts in this topic

Icemaker model #M1 SA8868 1018991. 

Control panel inside refrigerator indicates Ice on/off is ON.  Water is connected to selonoid valve as I have tested it with direct current and it pumped water. 

Not sure how to troubleshoot this further or if I need to call out Subzero repair:yikes:. 

 

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First confirm power is getting to the i/m. You'll need to pull the entire drawer out to test it. There are three switches operated by the closing of the drawer, one for the lights, one for the fan and one which supplies power to the i/m only when the drawer is closed. Find the last one and either tape it closed or jam a small screwdriver in it to stick it closed. Remove the water valve's outlet pipe. Now you'll need to remove the i/m and pop off the front cover. Now turn the big gear about 10° of movement and see if it advances on it's own. If it does it should also send power to the water valve so have a cup ready to catch the water. If the i/m turns by itself and sends power to the valve the inlet tube must be frozen. Thaw it out then test.

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Looks like power is not getting to the i/m.  Pulled freezer drawer, jammed screwdriver into switch to depress, slowly cycled the i/m a few times.  Water was not supplied to the i/m, the gears did not turn.

Also, the inlet tube is warm so it looks like it would not be frozen.  One other clue (may or may not be relevant), the problem started when the "sealed system" failed back in April '07.  Had Subzero replace the sealed system/condensor at that time, but the icemaker no longer worked.  It worked up until the time the sealed system failed.

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Another curious thing about the 650 I forgot to mention is that the control board will cut power to the i/m for 45 minutes after a harvest cycle. I'm not sure how it knows a harvest has occured but be sure to turn the ice "off" and then "on" with the keypad before testing. If you can use a VOM, check the plug at the i/m for incoming power and then the plug the wire harness connects to in the switch box. If no power there start tracing your way back to the control board. It is a pink wire as I recall. Should be a wiring diagram behind the grill on top of the ref.

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Traced the wiring and, yes, the pink wire appears to be the power to the i/m.  Hooked VOM to pink and white wires in freezer harness.  Then cycled i/m on and off via the control panel.  On cycles fed power to the pink wire.  Do you think I need to replace the i/m or could another culprit be to blame??

Thanks for your help.

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Actually, the motor was not cooked.  The troubleshooting instructions on ACMEHOWTO.COM are perfect except they specify to set the multitester on X1 versus X10 to test the motor.  On X1  the voltage was very low to the point of almost not registering.  Thus I thought the motor was cooked.  Setting at X10 gave a better reading which showed that the motor was fine.  Also, applied electrical current to motor and it turned.

After further testing using ACMEHOWTO.COM diagnostics, determined that it was the thermal cut off.  Found a broken lot I/M replacement with a somewhat different wiring harness on ebay for $20 and used the thermal cut out to replace the fried one on my current icemaker.  Things are working just fine now.

 

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