Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn how to be your own tech line…

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
cinnov

MAYTAG Dryer LDE840 - Heater unexpectedly disabled after repair

22 posts in this topic

I had to change the fan because it was making a terrible racket (worn out hub). However, when I put everything beck together, the dryer stopped producing any heat - which was not the case before. I checked the connections that are on the front cover of the fan case, to no avail. Because at some point I didn't disconnect the power, I suspect that after I pulled out the front cover to access the fan and then put it face down on the bottom of the dryer, it might have caused a short-circuit, But nothing special happened to validate that.

Anyhow, could anyone suggest a procedure to identify and correct the problem? Quick help would be appreciated!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Start at the source. Make sure that you have 220 volts. Check your t'stats and thermal cut outs. With little or no air moving a cut out could have gone bad. Just for kicks check your element also.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello,

Thank you for your advice.

I must add that, initially, to make sure the the noise problem that I had was from the heat fan, I removed the tumbler. Once the tumbler was removed, I ran the dryer for some time. It is possible this is what caused the problem. In this case, which fuse or element could have been affected? Knowing this might help locate the problem faster.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The full model number is LDE8404ADE. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the cycling stat and thermal fuse are located on the discharge tube that connects to where the blower wheel is, as the air is forced out of the dryer it affects the stats and they open and close to regulate the drying time...with the drum out and no air stirring the heat element is going to cycle off of the hi-limit stat on the canister

breakdown....check part # 6 (thermal fuse) for continuity...and part# 11 (hi-limit) for continuity...also check the element as it could have burnt into from running so long

also as already suggested verify correct voltage where the pigtail bolts on....middle to left 120VAC, middle to right 120VAC, outside to outside 240VAC...check these and post back

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After disconnecting the wires, I checked the thermal fuse and the "hi-limit" on the heater case, as well as the element itself for continuity. They all tested fine for continuity.

There is another unit which is on the blower, the cycling thermostat, I think, which should probably be checked. Checking it is not obvious since there are 5 wires connected onto it. Locating the device on the diagram, however, I could see which pairs of connectors must be tested. After disconnecting all the wires, I did the continuity tests. One of the connector (normally connected to a red wire going on the temperature switch) must either show continuity with a connector normally connected via a purple wire to the heater or show continuity with a connector normally connected via an orange wire to the temperature switch. In that instance, continuity test was positive for connection with the heater (purple wire), and negative for the other one. Test with the other pair of connectors - white wire going to temp switch and black wire to the heater - showed no real continuity, but a resistance of 28,000 ohms.

So, if there is something wrong, it may be with the cycling thermostat, I suppose. What do you think?

From your description about voltage measurements, however, it is not clear to me where to take these.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

on page 133 of the service manual, you will see the schematic diagram right above the wiring diagram.

it shows the "resistor" inide the cycling thermostat.

also note:

the L2 power needed to operate the heater, goes thru the centrifugal switch on the motor ( bu & bk wires),

bk-heater-brbr-hi limit stat-pupu-cycling stat-rdrd-temp swicth-bubu-timer-bk, L1

you could take some voltage measurements or jumper some of those items carefully

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

voltage measurement should be taken at the rear of the dryer where the pigtail mounts onto the receptacle block...3 lugs  left/middle/right....you have already done alot so far make sure the power is correct before going further

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Before going ahead, there is one thing I didn't mention. but which could matter considering what has been said.

After installing the new blower fan, I tested the dryer WITHOUT THE FRONT PANEL connecting the two door wires. That's when I realized there was no heat. So, is it possible that nothing actually happened to the machine and that heat was not activated just because of the fact that the front was open?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

without the door switch closed, the start button wouldn't work, nor the drum motor nor the heater.

If you by-passed the door switch, everything would run as normal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The voltage readings (without the machine running) are as follows:

Red wire (top pigtail)

White wire (mid pigtail)

Black wire (Bottom pigtail)

Black-Red: 249

Red-White: 124

Black-White: 124

I hope this will help.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

motor ( bu & bk wires),  0 v
bk-heater-br,  240 v
br-hi limit stat-pu,  0 v
pu-cycling stat-rd,  0 v
rd-temp swicth-bu, 0 v
bu-timer-bk,  0 v

you would need to carefully check the voltages accross each of the above bold wire colors while the machine is running (drum turning)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello!

Just as I turned the dryer on to make the voltage tests, power suddenly came back to the heater!! Apparently, it now works fine. I will keep an eye on it for the time being in case that condition comes back. So, for the time being I suggest this forum is not  withdrawn.

By the way, there is something I did unwittingly which might have made a difference. Before starting the dryer, I reopened the blower to make an adjustment to the fan. While doing that, I noticed that the sensor of the thermostat, inside the blower box, was covered with a very thick layer of packed dust, which I removed. This layer had been acting like a strong thermal insulant. Could this have made a difference?

Anyway, I would like to thank you all for bearing with me!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

MY JOY WAS SHORT-LIVED! Imagine that the dryer reverted back to "normal", wiht no heating... I suspect there is a loose connection or half-broken wire in the heat circuit.

By the way, how do you check

motor ( bu & bk wires)

without removing the drum?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure, but have you checked the other measurements ?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you look on page 131 of the sevice manual posted above by Regpat you will find the wiring diagram where measurements can be made....if you want to access the motor wires you could possibly do it from the rear where the inspection cover should be to load the belt back on tensioner...BUT...you can basically check the same thing if you look at the schematic by reading voltage at the black wire on the heater (all the bu-bk)does is go through the centrifical switch in the motor)... disclaimer..YOU NEED TO BE VERY CAREFUL DOING THIS TEST...unplug dryer and only plug back in to do test when ready

1)remove front panel and cross over the door switch wires and tape off

2)remove the black wire from the heater circuit and check for proper voltage from black wire to ground of the cabinet should be around 120ish VAC...if voltage is present then the bu-bk wires are making circuit through the motor

3)next do the same test coming through the hi-limit stat from the best I can tell looks to be a purple coming in on one side and then brown (remove the brown from the canister/// isoloate there also) coming out of it to the other terminal on the heater...should read the same

4)you should be able to read 240 volts at the black and brown terminals if so then the heat element is broken inside the canister , this is a common problem

L1 is through the timer and L2 is through the motor and meet up at the element, check here and get back to us...hope all this made sense..I tried to do it quickly a I'm getting ready to leave on calls...good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While performing the suggested tests, I realized what was the source of the problem. When I was testing the dryer, I was using the end section of the regular cycle. On my machine at least, it seems that when the cycle progresses past this section, the heater is cut off before the end of the cycle.  That is the reason why I was not getting heat. That is also the reason why, when I went a bit farther turning the cycle button, heat suddenly came back. 

All this to say that there was no real problem except maybe with the way the timer works. Anyway, I learned a lot on testing procedures and reading diagrams, especially with Regpat and Poobah. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lol....you were in the cool down cycle....that is normal....as you said, you learned some good testing procedures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not only me, but the onlookers as well!...

I would also like to add that I nevertheless did all the suggested testing procedures, with the proper cycle setting, and that the results were as expected.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats a good one....reminds me of this....a good friend of my wifes called complaining her dryer wouldn't heat...my wife tells her all the normal things to check but to no avail...I go to look at it and her 6 year old daughter at the time had been playing with the dryer and turned it to fluff...I walk in and say ok your fixed that'll be $75 for service call and diagnostic not going to charge you labor because I'm a nice guy...sfter letting her go for abou a minute with a blank look in her eye I tell her next time make sure of the settings....she then proceeds to tell me she never changes the cycle always dries on the same one so she didn't think about it...anyway...

glad you got it going..and you know more about your appliance than you did when you started, and saved much $$$$$$$$$.....good  luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

[user=5883]Poobah[/user] wrote:

Thats a good one....reminds me of this....a good friend of my wifes called complaining her dryer wouldn't heat...my wife tells her all the normal things to check but to no avail...I go to look at it and her 6 year old daughter at the time had been playing with the dryer and turned it to fluff...I walk in and say ok your fixed that'll be $75 for service call and diagnostic not going to charge you labor because I'm a nice guy...sfter letting her go for abou a minute with a blank look in her eye I tell her next time make sure of the settings....she then proceeds to tell me she never changes the cycle always dries on the same one so she didn't think about it...anyway...

Yep, it's expensive to be ignorant and helpless! That's why this forum exists-- enlightening the ignorant and empowering the helpless. :touched:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites