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rcdr

Very Warm Beer (+Turkey) with very cold Freezer - GE Profile PDS22SBRALSS

103 posts in this topic

Hi, I've got a GE Profile Fridge with a Freezer on the bottom that has a cooling problem.  All this just before Easter too.  The freezer part is very cold ("off scale", pulling in -13) with the fridge part approaching near room temp!  The model number is PDS22SBRALSS.

From very quickly reading this site, it appears I may have a problem with the defrost stuff (circuit board or sensors). 

Can anyone help with advice? Specifically, where are the sensors?  I can see where the circuit board may be (panel on back of fridge).   Does anyone have a service manual, wiring diagram or anything else that may be of help? Is this thing part of any recall?

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

If the defrost system wasn't working properly,  it would negatively affect the freezer temperature as well. I doubt it's the defrost system.

 

 If the evaporator fan motor is working fine, the air duct from the freezer to refrigerator or air return line could be frosted up.

This happens if the refrigerator or freezer door was accidentally left cracked open for several hours.

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Thanks Econo Appliance.  Still have a problem but no idea what's going on. 

We unplugged the fridge and basically manually defrosted the entire thing.  After a day, we plug it in and things appeared to returned back into working order (both the fridge part and freezer part).  Operation has since deteriorated again but now the fridge part is freezing food (in the bottom veg crisper compartments) and we've been noticing reasonably large temperature fluctuations in the both the freezer and fridge parts.  The temperature is set to the default (the freezer part at 0 and the fridge part at 37) but we've see the freezer part dropping to -4 and fridge part down in the 34 range. 

We were no noticing such problems (encounter at Easter and now) when we first got the fridge about 4.5 years ago.

Can anyone help?  Please see my earlier message for questions and request

 

Thanks in advance.

 

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Your Frige sensor is #241, and the freezer sensor will look just like it probably on the left hand wall at the bottom. In order to get a proper diagnosis you are going to need to remove the back wall of the freezer and verify the condition of the coils. post back your findings.

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Thanks [user=27301]appl.tech.29501[/user],

Should be able to find some time later this week.  I'll use your diagram to investigate and will report back with pictures and description of what I find.  Thanks.

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I found the service manual.

I could e-mail it to you.  1 MB

 

manual sent

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I too have a GE Bottom Freezer profile fridge. PDS22SBRALSS.

I've been through 3 main boards, and with each board I seem to have a different issue. My main issue is keeping the fridge cool. The freezer doesn't seem to have an issue getting cold, but the fridge always seems warmer. When the fridge does reach the default values (0,37F) the evap fan keeps running. It never shuts off.

This morning my fridge was -3F, 40F

I have the latest "new" main board and peformed the wire cut on wire #2 in connector J1.

I believe this has made no change.

Where can I purchase this "mini manual"? I'm suppose to have paperwork with the fridge, which is located under the front kickplate or something..... but I don't see anything?

Sears has put some effort into fixing this thing. But no luck so far. Sears says this is one of the worse fridges for them. Great :)

 

 

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Hi RegUS_PatOff, Keinokuroma, Bob-tech,

Thanks for your reply and help.  Will report back shortely to the group with investigations once I muster up some spare time and when I find another fridge to temporaily transfer some the more perishable food into. 

In the meantime, am currently "manually turning off the fridge at the breaker" or moving stuff from the freezer to the fridge to help with temperature problems! The temperatures are currently fluctuating wildly from the fridge part not working (but the freezer part working) to other extremes noted in my original posting.  Found the fridge part at 34 and freezer part at -10 last night.  Temperature target set to default (37 and 0 respectively.  I too am hearing a fan on the majority of the time (with some pauses - This isn't scientifically measured).

Specifically for each of your replies:

RegUS_PatOff: 

Thanks!

Keinokuroma:

Thanks!  Unfortunately, my serial number doesn't appear to be in the range they specify.  It has an AG code which indicates a Jan 04 manfacturing date and is not in the Oct 04-Jul 06 period specified in your document.  Any chance there is an earlier letter?

Bob-tech:

RegUS_PatOff has it.  Contact him off list to get it or me off list if needed. 

I'm sorry to hear that you are having (similar?) problems.  Your description including the Sears comments is startling.  I didn't expect to have problems with a Fridge given the price paid and one that had good consumer report ratings (I guess this rating was based on historical data on earlier models).

 

 

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rcdr,

Thanks for the input. That mini manual might come in handy. Does your evap fan run all the time?

I'm determined to open up the fridge and have a look at this damper and such. There is a stepper motor in there driving the damper... (I guess).

I know there is a stepper motor because I recognise a chip on the main board.

I'm wondering if something isn't allowing the damper/door/valve... whatever.... to move it's full distance???

But I don't have a donor fridge  :(

The only thing SEARS will do is cover the majority of costs for a new fridge.

The thing that bugs me is, when the fridge does reach default values (0,37F), the evap just keeps blowing. It never shuts off.

BD

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[user=33137]rcdr[/user] wrote:

Unfortunately, my serial number doesn't appear to be in the range they specify.  It has an AG code which indicates a Jan 04 manfacturing date and is not in the Oct 04-Jul 06 period specified in your document.  Any chance there is an earlier letter?

Intríguing... they list a PDS22 model number there... not serial... Yours is apparently PDS22BRALSS, the closest in RCC's list is PSD22BPALSS. The numbers in the PDF look like model numbers although they talk about serials...

I just tried, what the PDF says to be serial numbers are valid model numbers at RCC... maybe GE's mistake there... or whoever built the list.

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the columns are not in the right place...

this is the column for Bottom Mount French Door models: PDS22

serial numbers: Serial # HH0 - ML0

MFG dates:  May 05 - Jul 06

post-3641-129045099943_thumb.png

post-3641-129045100154_thumb.png

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My serial is AG041701

This fridge is driving me nuts. It now reads Freezer -13F, and fridge 38F.

Defaults (0,37F)

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[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

the columns are not in the right place...

Ah. That X-Plains it.

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Hi RegUS_PatOff, Keinokuroma, Bob-tech,

Don't have much to add yet since I haven't had the chance to investigate but some observations:

Bob-tech:

I just reread your post.  You have the near identical fridge in terms of exact model AND vintage.  My serial number starts with an "AG" as with yours and according to the page 7 of the service manual, both were manufactured in Jan 04.

About your question, "Does your evap fan run all the time?", I'm not sure which fan is is ON much of the time (as I think there are two of them from the manual - One for the condenser and one for the evaporator). As I wrote in my earlier postings, my fridge is all over the place in terms of temperature.  There is a fan on most of the time.  I have noticed it stopping periodically.  I haven't "scientifically" observed it but have casually noted that "the fan heard" has stopped all over the fridge/freeze temperature map.   Its currently at -4/44 with the default 0/37 setting.  I've just move some frozen stuff into the fridge to help manually transfer the cooling!

I had suspected that the circuit board may need to be replaced as powering down the fridge  for some length of time produces different effects, more than what I'd thought would happen if it was just due to simply defrosting. NOTE:  I'm a newbie at appliance repair so caution on my experience compared to the other truely experienced folks on this site.

You mentioned that Sears was involved with yours, that you've already gone through 3 control boards, and that Sears says this is one of the worse fridges for them. Have you brought the issue up with GE via Sears?  Has Sears mentioned any sort of recall, etc.?  

Bob-tech, RegUS_PatOff, Keinokuroma: 

The GE_Refrig Board specifies products manufactured during May 05 - Aug 06 which is later than our "AG" (Jan 04).  Is there any chance of anything other statement covering earlier fridges?

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So very late last night I found my fridge at the following temps. (-13,40).

So I decided, at 11pm, I was gonna rip it apart and see what was happening.

I put all my freezer goods into the fridge, and pulled apart the freezer so I could get at the back panel. Basically once I got the back panel off I found a big ice cube. I opened the fridge and turned controls to "OFF", by pushing the fridge temp up all the way. Even though my fridge was off, my EVAP fan would come on when I opened the door.

I'm assuming the evap fan was going because the freezer coils were a block of ice. And thus trying to defrost the freezer. The thermodisc that sits on the coil must be in the ON state. The coil was so frozen up, that the fridge must be trying to defrost the freezer. Hence the evap fan always running.

I grabbed my wifes hair dryer......, and on it's lowest setting, with safe distance, I defrosted all the ice off of this thing. The water tray in the back of the fridge filled up so fast!

Once the freezer coil thawed out, I quickly put everything back together and turned the fridge back on. I noticed the fridge-freezer getting cold over the next hour so I put the freezer food back in the freezer.

I don't quite recall what the temps were when I went to bed (2:30am). But at 7:00am...only 4.5hrs later....the temps were (0,33F). And my evap fan was OFF!!! :D

I plan on opening the compartment in the back of the fridge, to see how this beast operates.

Now that I've had this beast torn apart and have see the guts, my thinking is. Because the freezer was a BIG block of ice, the fan could not blow cold air up into the fridge. The block of ice basically filled the back compartment of the freezer with so much ice that there was no air flow.  So... This big block of ice is either the problem, or something (Damper/valve) may still be issue at controlling how much cold air actually blows up into the fridge. I could still have a frost issue imbetween the fridge/freeezer. My so called defrost may have jostled something.

I took some pictures which I will try and post when I get home tonight. Depends on how tired I am. :shock:

Someone on this forum said they did a defrost.... My question is, how long did you let it defrost, and how? With the ice build up I had, this would have taken a long time to melt on it's own. Especially with the freezer compartment closed in.

Bob

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Bob-tech:

OK.  So its the defrost problem that the more experienced folks have written about earlier.  Their suggestions in those situations were to check (1) Thermistors (2) Defrost coil (3) Defrost timer (4) Control board...

By the way, you are way ahead of me as I'm still in the manually transferring frozen stuff in the fridge (and back) stage.  If you get yours fixed before me, perhaps you can come fix mine since they are near identical and probably were on same assembly line during the same month/year. :D

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:)

Our fridges are probably cousins.

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I'm home and my fridge is at 0 & 38F. Very nice to find.

Although this doesn't mean the issue is confirmed fixed. I may still have a defrost issue. I'll have to wait and see what takes fold. If I can get my hands on this mini manual, then maybe I can identify which wires are which at the Main board and test the thermodisc, the defrost element, etc,etc

Here are some pics from my late night repair.

Bob

 

th_IMG_3935.jpg

th_IMG_3936.jpg

th_IMG_3937.jpg

th_IMG_3938.jpg

th_IMG_3939.jpg

th_IMG_3940.jpg

th_IMG_3941.jpg

th_IMG_3942.jpg

th_IMG_3943.jpg

th_IMG_3944.jpg

th_IMG_3945.jpg

th_IMG_3946.jpg

th_IMG_3947.jpg

th_IMG_3948.jpg

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Nice pix, thanks for posting 'em! :dude:

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[user=1]Samurai Appliance Repair Man[/user] wrote:

Nice pix, thanks for posting 'em! :dude:

Sharing the knowledge....sharing the knowledge.

----------------------

If anyone is in the same boat as me and they are thinking of doing a defrost I recomend the following.

1. Move all food to a new location.

2. Increase the fridge temp until the display says OFF.

3. Open the fridge and freezer doors up.

4. Now wait??

I also recomend accessing the back of the fridge and finding the drain.

The drain feeds into a tray in the back of the fridge. I recomend rerouting that line to a bowl or pan. Let the fridge drain into that rather than the back of the fridge tray.

While you are there, clean away any dust you see on the coils.

(I'll try and post a pic...may make more sense)

During the defrost I noticed that when the freezer door was open, the evap fan would run. If I shut the door, the fan would shut off. I'm guessing this is expected when the fridge is OFF, and defrost "mode" is needed.

After I defrosted the freezer, the fan stop running.

Anyways, I came home from work and temps were 0, 38F. And the evap fan was off.

Looks good so far, but I won't know if I have a defrost issue until it builds up again.

--------

Like I said... it appears to be running great. But if I still have a defrost issue, it may not show for sometime. I will inspect my thermodisc, heater element...etc,etc.

I will report my findings, and pics to help explain what I can!

 

Bob :D

 

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So my temps are sitting pretty good. The evap fan no longers runs 24/7...so my kitchen is very quiet!

 

Here is the photo I mentioned earlier.  If you are going to do a big defrost and you don't want the water sitting in drain tray, just pull the drain tube out and feed it into a bucket or tupperware like I did.

 

th_drain.jpg

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Well, Sad news...:(

I came home Saturday night to find my freezer at 11F and Fridge at 52F.

So I quickly pulled all the food out of the freezer, removed the drawers so I could get to the back panel.

I pulled out and the panel and found the evaporator coils frozen over.

In the white winter snow appearance.

I fed the drain, from the back of the fridge, into some tupperware for easy clean up, and then went at the evaporator with a hair dryer.

Now before I did that I unplugged the connector that feeds the thermodisc and heater. I measured 30 ohms. Which I'm assuming means closed thermodisc, and a heater with 30 ohms of resistance?

I melted all the frost over, 11 cups of water!

With the freezer comparment warm, fully melted and dry, I measured the resistance and I still got 30 ohms. I thought I should be seeing an infinite value here?  :?

With everything warm, wouldn't the thermodisc open?

This was late at night, so I put everything back together and went to bed.

When I came downstairs the following morning, the temps were dead on at 0F & 37F.

Anything I should look at next?

thermodisc-GE-Profile.jpg

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The evaporator fan can't blow air through it if it's totaly frosted up.

from the manual:

The defrost heater is controlled by the evaporator thermistor and normally turns off at 70°F.

If the evaporator thermistor fails, the evaporator thermostat will turn off the defrost heater at 140°F and will reset at 110°F.

Looks like your Main Control Board is bad (determines when to defrost)
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1194711

 

00248040.jpg

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I just put in a brand new board. This is the 3rd board in 4 years. :(

And I just defrosted my fridge like 2 weeks ago. Can it frost up that fast?

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