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cnewk

GE Profile Performance Refrigerator

13 posts in this topic

I have a GE Profile Performance Refrigerator. I have no idea how old it is. We just bought our house a couple months ago, and the previous owners left no owner's manuals for anything. The back has the code TFX25PP on it.

It looks like the solenoid valve is leaking. (I found this other thread for http://applianceguru.com/forum1/180.html that had this picture of a solenoid valve).

304368_2_M.jpg

(I don't know if this is the exact same model, but it looks the same)

I took the back panel off, and the water seems to be coming from this valve. It is really hard to get a good look at, since it is low and tucked pretty well. It didn't appear that it was a specific connection that was leaking, but the valve it self. I may be wrong, it was pretty hard to tell for sure.

Any help would be appreciated. I'm wondering if I need to get a new solenoid valve, and if they are difficult to install. Also, all the water lines are plastic, which I know is bad. Is changing to copper advisable or is that just more work to fix something that isn't broken (the plastic tubes don't seem to be the problem right now).

Thanks.

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

You'll need to get back there with a flashlight and look reeeeal close-like to see if the leak is coming from the valve itself or from cracked tubing. If it's from the valve, then git you a new one.

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I'm pretty sure it was the valve. I had crawled back there with a flashlight and a mirror (I couldn't see much of the valve with out the mirror). The water dripped from one of the screws.

Is this valve a real difficult thing to replace?

Thanks again for your help.

 

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[user=230]cnewk[/user] wrote:

Is this valve a real difficult thing to replace?

A single mug on the SUDS scale. Piece of pie, comrade!

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The one thing that catches people out with this kind of job is the increasingly common "John Guest" fittings which connect the tubing to the valve. All you have to do is push down on the coloured part and the tube will pull out. Similarly, push this part down while re-inserting the tubing, it is designed to hold it once you let it go.

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  When you install that valve do your best to avoid cramming those tubes against the hot compressor or your repair will only be temporary.

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Great site... I ordered a new valve(wr57x10051) from sears ($ 50.89 after shipping) and was wondering about the hook-up.   The fittings spooked me.

Your advice... "All you have to do is push down on the coloured part and the tube will pull out. Similarly, push this part down while re-inserting the tubing, it is designed to hold it once you let it go."

... will be very helpful.  THANKS !!!!  Back to the suds!

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Repair was a snap.  Very easy.  BUT had a concern. GE had a note in micro type about removing old bracket and slipping it between the new valve and bracket... I didn't.  The new bracket seemed to fit perfectly.  

Question1: Does the angle of the valves matter? There seemed to be a slight angle to the old bracket.

Question 2: I am only getting 5 out of 8 cubes per cycle... I am assuming I need more water per cycle. Right?  How do I adjust?

Question 3: What's the best suds brand for this kind of job... or will any suds do?

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I also have a leaking GE Profile  Side by side refrigerator, TPX24BPDBB, purchased Oct 2000. My problems started  about 16months ago when I woke up to a major puddle which eventually damaged my brand new hardwood floor.  I wrote a complaint letter to the following. GE fixed the leak and I was able to file a claim with GE insurance company for repair of my floor. 

Jeffrey Immelt,]Chairman CEO,]G.E. Company,]

Last week the refrigerator was leaking again. I contacted GE customer service however this time I was only allowed to get a replacement valve at a discounted price.  Now that I am fixing the problem myselt, I found that the valve is leaking and the cheap plastic tubing has become brittle and broken.  Obviously the repairman a year ago put it too close to the hot condensor.  I am planning on splicing in a new tubing since I don't know how to replace the whole tubing.

I am sharing because I believe this is a common problem and GE is aware of all these refrigerator leaks. A class action suit would teach them to design their products better (or perhaps they just don't care and want this "built-in" breakage so people will buy new refrigerators).  My last Whirlpool lasted 15 years and the only reason we replaced it was for the kitchen remodel and better efficiency.

 

 

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Good info, upset, but your letter lost something in the translation.  You're welcome to re-post it. 

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To write to GE and get results:

Jeffrey Immelt, Chairman CEO,GE Company

5135 Easton Turnpike, Fairfield CT 06431

The plastic tubing that runs into the solenoid was so brittle that by simply bending it with your fingers, it just snaps in two. I ended up replacing the whole valve set because the tubing snapped and the end remained inside the valve and it is very difficult to remove the remaining end without ruining the inner gaskets on the valve.

As far as I'm concerned the design is flawed because the plastic tubing runs alongside the hot condensor. My refrigerator was only 5 years old and the plastic tubing was all yellow and burnt.

It probably was done by the last GE repairman about 14 months ago, when he shoved the solenoid assembly back into the refrigerator.

I was wondering if there is a similar electrical problem, (i.e. heat causing the wires to fail)  because many of the wires that run into this solenoid, and even the main 110 volt power cord runs awful close to the big hot condesor?

 

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