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reallytrying

KitchenAid Washing Machine Meditating

16 posts in this topic

Wife-person says that in the wash cycle the agitator started making  noise and seemed to agitate sporadically, not confidently. Then the machine stopped (went dark, deep in meditative bliss) and wife-person smelled 'burning rubber'. "You know, like when we burn up a lawnmower belt running over a big rock."

I turned the washer off for five minutes and then started again in the wash cycle. Yup, it makes noise and agitates sort of spastic-like. I moved the control through rinse and spin and it rinsed, spun and drained the tub. The only noises/problems occur when the agitator agitates.

Please help me!

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About the only thing rubber in there that would have to do with driving the agitate spin cycle would be the coupler assy. between the motor and tranny, perhaps this is getting ready to break and is making the motor over heat and cut out on the overload.  They can get pretty noisy when they are going bad and sound like a jack hammer when they split.  Take a look at ref #13 first.  Something could also be in the water pump also but do not see a rubber smell unless the something in the pump is made of rubber.

Leadimage.asp?productTypeID=0153000&brandID=0593&modelDesc=DIRECT-DRIVE%20HOME%20WASHERS&modelNumber=KAWS700EQ0&documentID=O2026779&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PM&titleType=BRAKE%2C%20CLUTCH%2C%20GEARCASE%2C%20MOTOR%20AND%20PUMP&titleID=00004&

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You have to be more specific on this ... Is the motor power cutting out  and then starting again  like a chugging kinda of noise and its only on agitate   ....  what about on low speed agitate  is it  the same problem?????and do low and high speed spin both work???

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Continuing on the Terminator's theme, do the lights dim when this happens?

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Does your model have a speed selector switch? If so, you may need it replaced

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I will pull off the pump and motor. I have it opened up. I see at the bottom where the wiring harness goes to the motor that there is one connection (3-wire) that is not plugged in. There are two three wire plugs (M and F) just sitting there. (?)

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High and low speed spins both work. The machine shuts off completely (overheating?) and after you let it rest for 5 minutes you can start it again; and then, it shuts off. As it is trying to agitate, it makes a clunking noise.

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No, I don't think so. It has '10 cycles', '2 speeds', but the control is just to select the cycle. Heavy, delicate, permanent press, etc.

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Too late to tell about lights -  I have opened it up. I tried to start it when it was opened up (previously it would agitate with the lid open under the 'permanent press' cycle. My last attempt (very brief) with the machine cover off, just yielded a buzz from the motor. I shan't try that again.

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Check all wiring connections to your motor.

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Any thoughts about the disconnected plugs (3-wire mail and female) lying beside the motor. One end goes to the motor, the other end goes up in the harness to the control panel. Could it have just come undone? If so, would that explain my problem?

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What are the colors of the wires and look at the wiring diagram that is pasted to the inside of the back panel of the washer, does it show where these colors go???    Yes this most certainly could be your your problem.  If there is a round black capacitor on the side of the motor see if there are two wires plugged onto this.  It might be inside of the console if it is not on the motor so do not worry if it is as this would not be the problem. 

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Im not reeeeeeaaaaaalllllllllly     sure about this guys problem..... with the whirlpool direct drives they share the same motor windings in spin and agitate ........... so if it were to say spin in low and not agitate in low then you eliminate the motor  ..... cause its the same winding and then the same is true in high..... the only thing left is a speed selector switch and the timer  ..... and well make sure that the Molex connector to the motor providing the 2 speed isnt unplugged......   if thats all good and it does the chug a lug and the lights dim .....    ya have either a speed selector switch bad or the timer  .... The chug a lug is caused because the motor starts but there is a break to the run winding and then it kicks back to the start winding and just repeats the order    so   listen to the above and atleast try to figure it out    the direct drive motor is actually hard in my opinion to troubleshoot   I dont want to get into the contacts and all the other crap.......... with the 7 contact and crap like that          lets just keep it simple  ............................

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My fingers are crossed and my heart is pure (mostly). On occasion, with a broken down car I have been lucky enough to open up the hood and spot  a 'little man who's hat fell off' - something like a disconnected wire or a loose cap - all you have to do is put 'the hat back on the little man' and you're good to go! I reconnected the wires at the bottom of the washer. They were two-wire connectors, one white with orange and one white with purple going each way between the motor and the control panel. It's working!! The man has his hat and all is well with the world - so far! I have put the machine cover back on and I'm running a cycle. Agitating merrily away!

I can't thank you enough! I appreciate your help and your guidance. In the future I will buy my parts nowhere else.

And if it fails again, I'll be back whining like a baby to the gods of the Samurai!

All the best,

Sysyphus:D

 

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Best wishes  .................

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