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  • Upcoming Events

    • 27 April 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
      5  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological. 
      We have a special session planned for this one. Instead of the usual Show 'n Tell on a technical topic, we're going to post tech sheets in the comments to this Calendar Event (scroll down to see what's posted so far) and ask specific questions that can only be answered by reading the tech sheet. If you at least try to answer the questions beforehand, you'll get a lot more out of it. The tech sheet and the questions are posted in the comments section below.
      Your mission, if you should choose to accept it, is to check out the questions for each one and try to answer them ahead of time. Then come to the Dojo to see how well you did! 
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, April 27 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

RHEEM RGDG-05EAUER gas furnace


washu42

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I had someone check this a couple weeks ago, was told the flame roll-out switch had been tripped.  He re-set it and everything worked fine.  Today woke up to same problem, but when I re-set the switch it still doesn't work.  The small fan motor (I believe it's the IDM) starts up, but the ignitor never glows and the motor shuts down after a while. 

anyone available to help w/this?

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Typically there is a single shot fusible link.  It is an over temperature safety device that once tripped cannot be reset....it must be replaced.

If you have a roll out instance, you have a very serious situation that requires more than a reset.  You may want to have your unit more thoroughly and professionally checked out.

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I was just thinking that the guy came in found the rollout and reset it. probably in the vent pipe. Did he stay a while and clean the burners or vent, or was he there for 5 minutes? I would get his ass back out there and make him oil the motors and clean the damn heater right. My opinion.

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Thank you for your advice about previous repairmen.  His ass isn't available this week, and I need my heater working:?

Is there anyone who can help walk me through what part I need to replace? I have a multimeter and the troubleshooting guide, just not sure what some of the terms mean or how to check the part.  I have vaccumed the furnace, I don't see any burned connections or cracks in the manifold. 

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Please do not ASS-U-ME the roll out switch tripped erroneously. There is a reason they are there. One of the possibilities is the heat exchanger could be cracked. When this happens the flame will roll back a little and cause the roll out switch to overheat. I think this is what the other person was referring to when he said serious situation is possible.

In the great white north I have seen many cracked heat exchangers and even saw a family pulled out of a house on stretchers because of it. DO NOT by pass them or ignore them.

If you are certain that is not the problem a couple more things to check are the ignitor, check resistance. The induced draft motor will run a while then shut off and lock out if the burners do not ignite. Do you hear the gas valve click and gas go to burners for about 8 seconds? If so you are looking at an ignitor.

BTW you normally won't see the cracks in the Heat Exchanger unless you pull the heat exchanger out or use a boroscope and run it up into the heat exchanger.

MrFixit

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Look for a fuse like pete(dkpd1581) said, if it is open you won't have ignition:

post-4554-129045106059_thumb.jpg

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Thank you for your response - I do appreciate the fatal potential of failure in this system.  After I vacuumed everything out and checked to make sure all wiring connections were tight, the system worked.  I'll keep an eye on it & try to line up a good referral to have it checked if it goes out again.

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Glad you could get it going. If you replaced no parts it was probably a loose burner groundwire.

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