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pzion

manual for whirlpool washer

13 posts in this topic

We have a Whirlpool washing machine model LAC4900K5. The dealer sold us a repair manual called "Do-It-Yourself repair manual" that doesn't show our model.

We've had a leak coming from under the washer for awhile, but now the washer fills and doesn't drain, and it doesn't agitate or spin. I assum it's the drive belt and maybe the two-way valve (if it has one) but the manual doesn't show how to take this model apart.

Would appreciate help in finding a manual.

Thanks.

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unless it was built before 1987, it's a direct drive machine. That means no belt, it has a drive coupling. Your leak is probably from the pump, and it sound like you may have broken the drive coupling.

If the pump leaks for a long time, it causes the motor shaft to rust and swell up inside the pump. You may not be able to get them apart. Plus, the water leak can ruin the front bearing of the motor.

Sounds like you got a few problem here.

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I'm pretty sure it was built before l987.

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Thanks - but I'm pretty sure it's not a direct drive washer. The control knobs are below the top on the cabinet.

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The K series back then was either 1982 or 1985, will check my TOPS books tomorrow, probably belt driven, what is it you are wanting to do??  I can look in my old micro fishe tomorrow and see if I can find this.  If it will not agitate or spin or drain and the motor is running sounds like the belt might be broken, the pump could have been leaking and locked up causing the no drain which might have burned your belt off.  I will look this model up and see what is in there Thursday.  You could have a tub grommet leaking also. 

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[user=533]Pegi[/user] wrote:

>The K series back then was either 1982 or 1985, will check my TOPS books tomorrow, >probably belt driven, what is it you are wanting to do??  I can look in my old micro fishe >tomorrow and see if I can find this. 
Thanks. I'd appreciate that. The parts/repair shop sold me a manual for a belt drive machine, but it (the manual machine) had the controls on top and it also had a service panel in back that made it look like it's be pretty easy to get into.  I would like to put in a new belt (if that's the problem) and fix the leak.
> If it will not agitate or spin or drain and the motor is running sounds like the belt might be >broken, the pump could have been leaking and locked up causing the no drain which >might have burned your belt off.  I will look this model up and see what is in there >Thursday.  You could have a tub grommet leaking also. 

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"Thanks. I'd appreciate that. The parts/repair shop sold me a manual for a belt drive machine, but it (the manual machine) had the controls on top and it also had a service panel in back that made it look like it's be pretty easy to get into.  I would like to put in a new belt (if that's the problem) and fix the leak"

You have what is called a portable or apartment sized washer

I would advise you find the source of the leak first. On your machine, it may be a real project. If you have a rusted out tub or baseplate, you need to go shopping for a new machine. .

On these, belt and pump replacement is much harder. When I say much harder, I mean much harder. Only the older techs will have ever done one, and they will be smart enough to not want involved in a nightmare job on a 20 year old machine. Many many people have failed while trying to weave that belt pattern, it is a real headache, especially if you never saw one in working order.

We used to cheer for our fellow techs who condemns one, many parts are NLA, no longer available.

Unless you are stout of heart,  junk it.

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Sorry, I forgot to check this out, according to the TOPS book this was mfg. in 1982 but I cannot find this model number even in the old mocro fishe.  If it is this portable then the whole case should lift up after you remove the screws from around the case base and there should be pull out arms to rest the case on so one can access the guts of the washer.  I have a stack unit here in the shop that I use for our shop towels that has this same innner workings.  The original washer insides were trashed so we just slid another washer with the case removed in there and still use it.  They are more dificult to work on and be prepared to find major damage underneath if you do lift the case.  The Whirlpool Belt Driven do it yourself manual we have here in the shop has the Compact/Portable washer area near the back of the manual on page 139, did you see if it is in yours???  Part number 677813 Ref. B seems to be the manual number on the back cover of the publication. Another question, is the top of the washer metal or plastic??

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>The Whirlpool Belt Driven do it yourself manual we have here in the shop has the Compact/Portable washer area near the back of the manual on page 139, did you see if it is in yours???  Part number 677813 Ref. B seems to be the manual number on the back cover of the publication. Another question, is the top of the washer metal or plastic??<

You're right -the compact/portable washer area in our manual starts at page 135. The part # is the same but it also says rev.I. The top of the washer is metal.

Thanks again.

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Cool, you should be good to go, we have repaired several of these washers, are more difficult that the regular sized ones but with the instructions in the manual you will be fine!  ;)

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Thanks for all the help. The new belt is now installed and we're able to wash clothes again.

There's a couple of other problems: there's a small leak coming from somewhere under the washer. The manual doesn't seem to discuss how to locate where the leak is coming from. it gives several suggestions of what it might be, but nothing on how to make sure where the leak is coming from. The washer also leaks out of the drain hose. I saw in the manual, that a low water level might cuase a leak underneath. The manual says this could be the pump, control magnet, or cam bar, but doesn't say how to find out which one it is.

Thanks again.

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Usually a leak on the belt drive Whirlpool/Kenmore machines, when you can't actually find the source, (like a obvious hose or something), then it will be one of three things.

If the leak is coming from between the outer tub and the bottom support plate and leaking thru the holes and over the edges you can be sure it's one or more of the following.

The the centerpost seal, the tub bolt kit, and or a hole rusted in tub.

You alway replace the centerpost seal and tub bolt kit together never just one or the other.

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