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lsinbuffalomn

Refrigerator

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lsinbuffalomn

My Whirlpool side by side  (model number ED22PW)  is not cooling or freezing.  No fans or compressor running.  Have power ( lite comes on and goes off when door is shut.)  Turning thermostat from on to off has no effect. Noticed that unit had been "running on"  about 3 weeks ago or so.  Cycling thermostat to find the on/off point at that time I noticed the two points were quite different.  Don't know if thats normal but it the problem seemed to go away, but  now cycling from ON to OFF and vica versa has no effect.  One observation I made after unit had been dead overnite (about 12 hours ago) is that the floor of the freezer compartment is still cold.  If the unit is really dead would this be possible.  I also tried jumpering aound what I think might be a relay or limit switch down by the compressor ( it has 2 blue wires going from it to the starter relay) . No effect.  The unit  I think I had this problem once before and the starter relay was fried.  Cost me a service call that time. Anything DIY's like me can do to check if  this is the problem?   I gotta admit the no fan condition bothers me like it could be bigger than the relay.  Anyway I'm trying my hand at refrigerator repair for the first time( I've fixed most every other home appliance) and I figured an internet forum might be helpful. Any ideas out there,thanx.........lsat buffalomn

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Two prime suspects: the cold control and the defrost timer.

Easiest thing to do for an initial test is to try and advance the defrost timer a couple clicks to see if it's stuck in defrost mode.

If no joy, then we'll have to jump over to the cold control to see if it's getting voltage. You should unplug the fridge before disassembling the control panel to expose the wire terminals on the cold control. Then plug it back in so you can make your voltage measurement. If you're getting voltage to the cold control, try jumpering the two terminals out with a jumper wire.

If you need help locating these components, then post a complete model number and I can get some diagrams for you. Model number help here:

http://fixitnow.com/2003/05/appliance-tip-of-day-ten-commandments.htm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

(I moved your original post from the Kitchen to here.)

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lsinbuffalomn

Thanks for your quick response O experienced one.  Thought I had the entire mod# before but of course in your infite wisdom you knew different.  Here then are the entire set of applicable spec. numbers:

Mod #: ED22PWXAN10 S/N: SC3521991   TYPE: 22SSA93   I humbly await your continued wisdom..........lsatbuffalomn  :notworthy:

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

No problemo.

Your controls are pretty easy-- in the beer compartment, up top, they're all together. Refer to this diagram: cold control is item 9, defrost timer is item 6.

You can advance the defrost timer without taking anything apart. Look on the bottom of that control panel and you'll see a hole with a little button inside of it. Use a flashlight if you need to. Turn the knob CW a few clicks-- usually a flat blade screwdriver does the trick.

{edited for typos}

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lsinbuffalomn

Grandmaster,  Your humble weedhopper is back and the news is still not good.  First: the control panel diagram is not quite the same. It shows what I assume may be the old style defrost timer ( looks like a small can on the defrost board). My unit has what looks like it might be a solid state or enclosed timer (small white plastic box ).  There is no sign that this unit is adjustable. Strictly go / no-go setup. I noticed that model # on the drawing ended in 00 vs 10 on mine.  Second, when I cycled power to the reefer I heard the defrost timer click once and almost immediately click again.  Is this an indication that the timer relay is cycling open and shut preventing effectively cutting power to the unit?; i.e. the unit is in continuous defrost mode . Third I'm not seeing any voltage across the cold control terminals. Once again I await your wisdom, thanks.............................lsatbuffalomn :notworthy:

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Ok, when I looked up your model number, there was an "00" and a "11" ending-- no "10." So, I took a chance on the "00." Uh oh, no-go on the "00." Oh no.

The "11" ending seems like yours. Diagram here.

A quick study of the wiring diagram for your refrigerator reveals that, if you're not getting 120v on the orange wire of the cold control, the ADC board is bad-- replace it.

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