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Whirlpool Dehumidifier AD40USL1 blows breaker


dbiberdorf

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I have a Whirlpool dehumidifier, model AD40USL1. When I plug it in, it immediately blows the breaker. I don't even have to turn it on.

Any ideas where to start? Anyone have a service manual?

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I pulled it apart today. I see a scorched trace on the back side of the power supply, between a couple of relays. I assume one has failed -- will assess that in the morning.

However, where does one buy a part like this? (Or the entire power supply board if it's not expensive?) One of the relays is 833H-1a-C.

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I seem to remember there was a safety recall by w/p on some of their dehum's, can't seem to find it right now, but might be worth a call to whirlpool to find out if yours is an affected model.

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this one ?

click on picture

00161185.jpg

 

or the Relay for a few bucks ...

what's the coil voltage ?

relay dimensions .748 x .810 x .591 H

can you use      .866 x .630 x .630 H?

but what made the Controller burn up ?

 

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  • Team Samurai

[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

but what made the Controller burn up ?

 

Maybe not using a surge suppressor?

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I took this dehumidifier from an acquaintance who simply said it died. Since it's not very old, I figured I'd take a look to see if I could net an inexpensive dehumidifier in the deal. Perhaps it's not worth repairing. I'd be surprised, though, if the compressor had died already. (I've got a 70s era one that's still churning away.)

The PCB trace is noticeably scorched at the one location, with a corresponding black mark (superficial, wipes off with a finger) on the case. I figured an electrical spike hit it, or perhaps one of the relays failed internally (need to think that theory through).

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[user=267]dbiberdorf[/user] wrote:

... I figured an electrical spike hit it, or perhaps one of the relays failed internally (need to think that theory through).

perhaps a spike, which may take out most, if not all, of the Controller electronics.

Relay failed internally ? ... maybe, but then it normally wouldn't scorch anything,

it would just have bad internal contacts, which would "open" the circuit...

If the Relay had shorted internal contacts, also no scorches, the device would just run continuously ...

Try jumpering the Relay output connections (not the Coil connections), after jumpering the damaged PCB traces.

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