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fonemann

maytag neptune MAH3000AWW

20 posts in this topic

Good Evening L&G,

I recently replaced the Motor Control board in my MAH3000aww Neptune.

I thought that would solve the problem, like last time only the wax motor broke too, no fried resistors on the board, It fills for a short time and then turns off, I am lost and (maybe out$212 if it is somthing else) Any body help me please!!! The last ime I bought a MCB the wax motor went too. Not this time please help

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[user=7915]fonemann[/user] wrote:

... It fills for a short time and then turns off ..

does it get full ? .. how long before it shuts OFF ?

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It fills for about 1 minute, then shuts off , brand new  circuit board, nothing fried on the old one, the water flows fast at first then, slows, then stops and shuts down

Thanks

Rick

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how's the voltage at the Water Inlet Valves ?

51278.gif

 

 

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I will have time to check it this week end, What should I look for as far as voltages go?, and BTW thanks for the reply, It helps alot!

Rick

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you are looking for 120VAC. The water valves are powered directly from the board. Is the door lock working?

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[user=7915]fonemann[/user] wrote:

... fills for a short time and then turns off ...

all lights go OFF ?

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I checked the voltage at the fill valve, it is 110, i pressed the start button, same issue, the water ran for a short time and stopped,after it stopped ,I pressed start again and it filled alittle more and stopped again, Yes the door did lock.

When I turned the control knob to spin, the water did drain out, but it stopped (All lights out), I pressed start button again and it drained more, and stopped, I did this till all water was gone from tub, Im not an expert at this, but could it be the timer mechanism? I am truely lost. And yes It has a new machine control board...

Thanks

Rick:(

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start the machine like you normally would and check voltage on the machine control board from the P5 connector (Neutral) and the Line relay input (grey wire) should be 120VAC

From the same Neutral to the line relay output (black wire)

should also be 120 VAC (when start button pressed), will go to zero when button released

  If you still have 120 VAC on the input (gray wire) then the machine control board is bad.

If you don't have 120VAC from the neutral to the line relay input (gray wire) when the machine fails the you either have a bad door switch or start switch.

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I have a new machine control board, The symtoms are the same when I replaced it, I will check the olaces that you suggest to see if that is defective voltages, and the door locks and opens as normal, (last trpair I replaced the wax motor for the door, and there are no fried resistors on the board.

Thanks

Rick

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Make sure you have the start button pressed when performing the previously posted tests

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I checked the voltages as you said, p5 to grey, and then to nuetral, I had 117, then I pressed the start switch , the voltage jumped to 0, is it a bad start switch, because it started before and ran, but then stopped on the fill cycle, with the door locked?????

Rick

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Sould be neutral to gray 120 and then when start button is pressed neutral to black 120. The neutral to gray should alwals have 120 as long as there is power to the machine and the door is shut. If your losing power there I would test the door lock assembly.

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The door does lock when the power is on and it starts to fill, this is getting confusing,

maybe im not understanding the steps that need to be taken to diagnose...... are you giving me steps in order to nail the bug i've done all just like you said........thanks

Rick

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[user=7915]fonemann[/user] wrote:

I checked the voltages as you said, p5 to grey, and then to nuetral, I had 117, then I pressed the start switch , the voltage jumped to 0, is it a bad start switch, because it started before and ran, but then stopped on the fill cycle, with the door locked?????

Rick

 

All these voltage tests should be done with the wires connected. If the unit will not come on and fill at all now and would previously then something is intermitting or has now completely failed. I am trying to help you diagnose your problem. You stated that you had 120 VAC from the P5 (neutral) to the gray until you pressed the start switch and then it went to 0. The power wire ( gray wire) comes straight in from the wall outlet straight through the door switch to the start switch. so either the door switch is bad or the wire from the door switch to the start switch is bad.

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How fast does the water seem to be coming in? A lame trickle? If the water fill is too slow, the machine will shut down.

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You have replaced both boards ???  the machine control board (  in the console  )  and the motor control board (   at the cabinet base )  ??

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I have similar issue to fonemann - my MAH3000AWW washer operates for only about a second or so after pressing the 'start' button, then the 'on' light goes out, and all is quiet, but all is not serene.

Checking the machine control board, nothing appeared smoked. 

Tested the relay as appl.tech.29501 suggested, and these are my results:

DH had taken the door off, so we didn’t get any appreciable VAC reading between the P5 & the grey wire terminal, until we remembered to manually depress the door switch & hold it closed, then the reading between P5 & grey wire went up to 118 VAC, as I understand it is supposed to be so long as machine has power.  P5 to black remained no appreciable current until we pressed & held down the ‘start’ button....

After pressing the ‘start’ button (and holding it down), the ‘on’ light came on for a short while (and the machine commenced to make noises you would expect when turning it on, except that we had turned the water off, so didn’t hear rushing water – remember we have our door off), then as expected, the ‘on’ light went out.  As long as the ‘start’ button was pressed, even after the ‘on’ light went out, there was 118 VAC reading between the P5 to black wire terminal on the relay.  Once we let go of the 'start' button, P5 to black went to zero VAC, P5 to grey always remained at 118 VAC. 

I humbly await enlightenment while I contemplate rising mountain of dirty laundry.

Thanks, Technopenny

 

 

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Techno, start a new topic.

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Has simular problem in past on this model type, check the wiring on the Start / Stop

switch , if its defective , it will make the machine think after you pushed the start cycle, that you are not pushing the stop button which shuts the machine down shortly after you push the start, check the contacts on the switch as to the positions, I think you can remove a wire after it started to prevent the stop cycle from completing the circuit to test the start stop button, had this at least two or three times.

Good luck South Jersey Appliance.........:)

 

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