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Whirlpool Duet Sport Front-Loading Washer Model WFW8300SW04

23 posts in this topic

My basement flooded with 4 feet of water during a flash flood and my 14 month old Whirlpool Duet Sport Front-Loading Washer  (WFW8300SW04)  was under water to about the middle of the machine.  After the water receded from the basement, there was water left in the drum.  I removed the water from the drum with a shop-vac and also opened the drain pump filter to drain any water remaining. 

After letting the machine dry out for several days, I plugged it back in and tried to get it working.  When beginning the cycle, it locks the door, but does not begin the cycle of filling with water and spinning.  It does do some clicking, but I'm not sure from where.

After running the Service Histroy Mode, the code of F24 displays.  It seems to then run throught the diagnostic test, but nothing displays.  I took the back off the machine and checked the Temperature Sensor to make sure the conection was not loose and took a general peek at the Motor Control Unit, but nothing seems loose. 

Is there a way to test the Motor Control Unit, Drain Pump, etc?  If so, what would be the best approach at troubleshooting?   Thank you :)

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

so you have no display at all? no beeps, no lights?

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Did you mean after the diagnostic has run?  If so, just a zero flashes quickly and then the display area is blank (the same display area that had the F24 code). Then it seems the diagnostic finishes and no lights are displayed on the panel.  I didn't hear any beeps. Just clicks as the machine went through the diagnostic phase.

Gererally:

The machine turns on and diplays are normal, you can select wash cycle, water temp, and press start, the door locks, then there are clicks, but the machine does not start to fill with water and spin as it would normally.  The "add garment" light stays lit, but the machine does not begin it's cycle.  Also, the red light under the pause botton is lit.  I end up pushing the pause button to shut the machine down.

I hope this helps.  Thank you!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sorry, I was thinking about the beeps.  When pushing the buttons they do make their normal beeping sound.  I hear no beeping that does not seem normal.

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Disconnect the blue harness from the motor control board and start the machine. If the machine acts like it is going to run (but it won't because the plug is disconnected) then the MCU will need to be replaced.

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I will try that and let you know.  Thanks again!

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You're information was very helpful.  But I am sad :( I tried to remove the plastic connector for the blue harness from the mcu and broke the plastic connector, so the 3 blue wires are flapping in the breeze.  Can this be fixed?

I tried to run the machine after disconnecting the blue harness from the mcu (and breaking the plastic connector).  I pressed the power botton, chose the quick wash cycle, and hit the start botton.  The door locked, but the water did not start to fill the drum and the drum did not begin to spin.  The "add a garment" light stays lit and the red light under the "pause/cancel" button stays lit.  There are clicking noises (no beaps or display codes) but nothing else.  I hit the "pause/cancel" button to shut the machine down.  The "add a garment" light stayed lit, so I just unplugged the machine.  The door stayed locked, so I used the lock release to unlock it. 

Have I made the problem worse?   Thank you, Eve

 

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were you able to choose a setting previously before removing the MCU connector? (its not suppose to run with the cable unplugged, it was just a test to see if the machine would let your program it where it wouldn't previously)

Post a link to a picture of what is broken.

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Yes, I was able to choose settings to program the washer prior to removing the connector from the mcu.    There was no change after removing the connector for the blue harness from the mcu.  The machine functioned the same way in both instances.

 May I borrow a sword to chop the washer to pieces? :D  Sorry, I'm just disappointed that I broke that plastic clip.  I guess I didn't pop the tab on the clip properly and when I pulled it, the plastic broke.

The red arrow below points to the clip that broke of the wires.

(Thanks for all the detailed instructions and pictures, there are very helpful!)

 

4897987244_67da73aec4_z.jpg

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so the wires came out of the plastic connector or the connector locking tab broke?

Sounds like the MCU is good and the CCU is bad

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connector locking tab broke and fell off wires.  How do you check the ccu?

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There's one picture of the MCU. There's a bit of corrosion, but nothing serious.

There are two pictures of the broken plastic clip from the blue harness that connects into the MCU. Can the plastic clip be fixed?

Thank you, Eve.

SAM_0465.jpg

SAM_0469.jpg

SAM_0471.jpg

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probably gonna have to replace that harness. I dont think you can repair that.

Motor Harness Link

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OR solder those (3) wires to the Board ...

if the Board ever goes bad ...

un-solder and re-solder those (3) wires ...

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[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

OR solder those (3) wires to the Board ...

if the Board ever goes bad ...

un-solder and re-solder those (3) wires ...

 

Yes that is an option and a pretty good one considering it will save you $50 and 2 more weeks of down time.

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Looks to me like that could be put back together with a little superglue.....

The wires slide between the exposed metal prongs which slice thru the wire insulation to contact the inner wire.  You may need to pinch the prongs back together to hold the wires good and tight, the the white plastic retainer part, (if it actually broke off and didn't just snap out of place), can be super glued back into place.

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Can any blue wire be put in any spot of the plastic clip?  Or is there a specific order for the wires to be reconnected?  Thanks for all your help!  It's much appreciated!  Eve

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That's a good question, I don't believe it matters since they are communication wires but i'm not absolutely sure. The wiring diagram doesn't specify an exact location  for each wires termination. On the CCU they are labeled 1 2 3 but it doesn't show that for the MCU. Maybe someone else has some insight.

Tech Sheet

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[user=27301]appl.tech.29501[/user] wrote:

That's a good question, I don't believe it matters since they are communication wires but i'm not absolutely sure.

Certainly does matter, these are as you say, communication wires/lines.  Used for one computer to talk to another computer.

Most likely you have a send/receive/?? not sure what the third would be maybe a status check line or what's known V+ for regulated low voltage supply, (have to understand computers to know for sure but it's something like that), and if you hooked one computers receive data channel wire to the other computers receive data channel wire they are not going to be able to talk to each other.

If the one communication wire is V+ for voltage and you hook that line to the send or receive line you might even blow one of the computers little brains out.

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Hmmmm...I don't think I can repair the clip and I'm not sure what else is wrong with the machine due to the flood damage. I think it best I invest money tword a new washer.  I went to the store to look for a new front loading washer, they we very low on inventory, it looks like a lot of people lost washers in the flood. 

I had no problems with the Whirlpool Duet Sport Washer (until the flood).  I had it only 14 months.  It worked fine. 

Any recommendations on front load washer?   Thanks again for all you help!! :) Eve

 

 

 

 

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I prefer the standard Duet Vs. the Sport...few less problems. I agree I think your better off getting another machine as you may have multiple problems. I take it your current machine wasn't on a pedestal? If not, you might want to invest in one. I also recommend buying the MFG. extended warranty, not the "retailers".

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