Begin your journey to appliance repair mastery…

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
RandyRAS

JUNK GE GSS20IEMBWW new motherboard

29 posts in this topic

Have a GE SXS Ref, GSS20IEMBWW, quit defrosting about three months ago, installed a new BRD/HARNESS ASSY #WR55X10150 and then installed BOARD ASM MAIN DOMEST #WR55X10335 worked fine after that.....except that it is a GE....now doing the same thing, how do I check were the problem is, and what is causing it. is there any way to default this into defrost, doesnt say on the tech sheet.        Have checked the element, ok, and the thermal cut-off, OK both have cont. what ever happened to the good old, advance the Def. Timer.

Also, could this problem be in the motherboard, and caused by power surge, or other "Dirty" electricity? live in the woods, way back in the woods, you know the kind pipe in sunshine.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

[user=3693]RandyRAS[/user] wrote:

Also, could this problem be in the motherboard, and caused by power surge, or other "Dirty" electricity? live in the woods, way back in the woods, you know the kind pipe in sunshine.

Samurai's 11th Law of Appliance Repair illumines us in this hour of darkness, "Raw power is dirty power.

The parts should have a one year manufacturer's warranty, see about returning them under warranty.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

    A bad evaporator thermistor will stop a GSS from defrosting.  A good evaporator thermistor with a tiny amount water and ice inside it will also stop a GSS from defrosting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  A bad evaporator thermistor will stop a GSS from defrosting.  A good evaporator thermistor with a tiny amount water and ice inside it will also stop a GSS from defrosting.

Can you tell me how to test this to find out if it is bad? or good?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

as Randy said the trermistor will likely be the problem with the unit not defrosting, I would replace it normally when i replace a board, just keeps murphy law from coming into the frey.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

[user=3693]RandyRAS[/user] wrote:

Can you tell me how to test this to find out if it is bad? or good?

You would test it the same way you test an oven sensor, Randy-- they're basically the same thing, just different applications. All they are is a glob of semi-conductor material with a positive temperature coefficient (PTC); all that means is that their resistance increases as the temperature increases. The resistance is read periodically by the mother board (in a range, the ERC). So, to make a short answer long, all you're doing is looking for some resistance in the low K-ohms. If they're bad, they're either gonna be slap-open or have a resistance in the mega-ohms.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They are right, that therminstor is a real problem, had a few that are intermittent that sometimes work and not work, for the price its best to replace it, let me kow if you need the resistance chart for the specs on the resistance to temp valve, I always check them manually, as the built it test program will should there good when it fact they are not, since it is such a wide range resistance valve, you sometimes need to check the resistance at the current temp in the box on that sensor to see if it is correct, the few I had said the evaporator was forty degrees when it was below 0 thus when it went into defrost it thinks it done already as it sees the evap at 40 degrees rather than 0 and the heaters will either come on for too short a time or not at all..............John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is the sheet I designed for my personnel use on the GE units for trouble shooting from the rear , use at your own risk..........Johngediagram.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sir Jabco,  

  Truly you are at one with the Force.   Thank you not only for the single sheet of paper crammed with diagnostic info,  but for your efforts in compiling it as well.  Obviously you have battled the GSS as much as, if not more than myself.  

   Surely you have experienced the "fan noise" that seems to come and go for a week or so every year or so.  I have explained it as a flaw with the adaptive defrost that allows ice and frost to form on the fan blade and shroud from time to time and it'll go away and it always does.  However, after reading your post a thought popped into my head that perhaps it may be thermistor related.  Do you have any thought on this matter?

May the Force continue to be with you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds feasable if there is a shorted than required defrost time, also had I/M leak down to the same area causing a frost build up, some of these fans also became noisy on there own, and if not replaced may cause the pc board to fail, due to the position GE installed the fan water was able to migrate down the shaft through the bearing causing a motor failue, if you find a bad evap. motor might also need the board, let me know if anyone needs the dianogisis progam information, the models with the LED display can be tested from the touch pads, if it is a decoder model (knobs) you need the parts listed on the spec sheet, there is a access plug under the freezer hinge to plug it in.................John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sir Jabco,

    I have battled these beast, manufactured by the great Satan of appliance manufacturers GE, since the early days (2001).  I have been responsible for thousands of these machines since they came out of warranty.  I have changed a chute door solenoid and chute door in 12 minutes.  I have been sending my service contract customers (with replacement coverage) back to GE long before they would admit they had defective doors.   I know that my coaching is responsible for thousands of my customers getting new doors from GE at no charge.  I can diagnose and replace a bad damper assembly in under half an hour.  I could go on but I think the point is made. 

   I can't help but think however, that is is possible, you have battled them even more.  I am sure any information you post on these monsters (actually I'm starting to like them) would benefit all who gaze upon it.  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That has got to be one of the coolest, if not THE coolest, technician cheat sheet I've ever seen! Mucho domos for posting that, Jabko! :coolblast:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jabco, you rock,  personally I prefer Whirlpool product, and if I could would only service it, but with my local I find myself working on the worst of them, Garbage Engineered (GE) is the worst for me, hope that you are not a fan of the GE, but if you are then you should be granted a new esteamed title, you have my many thanks:notworthy:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi  I got that same  model ge and having the same problem with evap frosting up

with heater and d. themostate checking out ok.

did you ever find out how to force a defrost with it ? I read the post but cant find a  listing for forceing a defrost on a ge s/s the same model as your posting

also would like to know where those thermisters are located and what the look like

 thanks for any help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You say that you have replaced the defrost heater and defrost thermostat, which defrost thermostat did you replace, there is just one defrost thermostat, its not the one looks like the typical defrost thermostat, its the white colored one about the thickness of a pencil attached to the evaporator with a 1 inch long clip, its the same as the temp. sensors, what looks like a normal defrost thermostat is a high temp safety in case all else fails to shut the heater off.

I have seen thes fail quite often, there resistance change when it fails and basically will cause the board to think its already defrosted by sending a temp thats above the defrost cycle terminating temp,thus prevents the heater from coming on.

This defrost thermostat will also look like the one of the sensor near the floor of the freezer. About a inch and a quarter long / about a 1/4" thick all white plastic with two white wire comming out the back...............................good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well what I said was I omhed out the heaters and d thermosate ... guess its called a safty on these s's ... So if i understand you right the themisters taken the place of the defrost themostates and they just kick in when the thermister dont shut the heater down..by the time it reaches the d themostate temp. ... ooohh you said theres one at the bottom... does it just work with the therister at the top sensing the temp at botton of evap? or whats its purpose...and if so.. will this also give trouble to defrosting cycle?  thanks for the help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The one located on the bottom sends the freezer temp to the pc board to control the freezer temps, the one attached to the evap. is used for defrosting control.

If you jump J9 to J11 on the board it will turn on the heater and thus verify that the limit control and heater are OK, be careful if you do this as L1 is hot, if the compressor is runnig at the time the heater will also come on, you can unplug it first to be safe and install a jumper and then reconnect unit, heater should start to heat if both the limit and heater are good. If this works its probably just a bad thermister on the evaporator

The thermisters are cheap enough, I would just replace it and check it in a day or to to make sure the frost is not returning.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you very much for your help [user=3814]jabko[/user].. got another question.. i been trying to find a manual on these ge s's and havnt been able to find one .. 

I tried ge a while ago and they didnt have any updated manuals on these newer s's with adaptive defrost.. is there somewhere i can get one?... Another question...

Does the thermister regulate amps or watts with resistance??...From what Im understanding ....its Not just a on and off ..like a defrost themostate?? or is it?

And is there a way on ge's to force the defrost with the m. board or the only way is to  just jumb at m.board  to check heaters ect.. 

 But  That still dont tell ya if the mother board is going thu a defrost cycle.

Thanks  again for all your help!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On these Ge friges you cannot put them into a defrost cycle, the line to defrost test just checks to see if it is working or not, if the compressor is running it will continue to do so...strange friges these....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depending on what model you have you can force a defrost cycle , on most digial display models, if it has knobs to set temps you need the sevice tool to force a defrost cycle, with the digital display models you can force all test modes, like compressor / fan / damper / defrost etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you notice the diagram that Jabko has posted you will see the thermistor value chart, this shows the resistance value the thermistor should have at a particular temp.  Having already changed the safety and the heater there is only the thermistor and the board left.  The thermistor is the lkely culprit as already stated, the older ones are prominent for going bad.  I have had them show to be in spec and still not work right, so I change them on every job I do automatically (besides there in-expensive anyway). Trouble is there is no real way (I know of) to test the board. Change the thermistor and keep an eye on it if it does freeze up you will be changing the board,  if not then you GTG......good  luck ....check back

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Guess no one knows where i could find a tech manual on GE sxs?

THank you  for all your Help!!! Sure is nice to talk with people that has the same oppinion of ge as i do... thanks again

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Samurai has them on the X-drive for us techs, if you will wait for him to get in from his Fix-it-Do'ing this evening or tomorrow, he might be so inclined to post a link to a manual for you, we cannot do this, only the Samurai..;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I sure thank all you guys for  the quick responses and great info.... best forum I ever been too... I figured it would be days for i got a response.

thanks again! Mike Johnson

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jabko,

Would it be possible for you to post or send me the tech sheet you developed?  It would be most appreciated!  --Duc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites