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CarolB

Amana Refrigerator/Freezer

30 posts in this topic

I have an Amana refrig/freezer side by side model # SCD23VW   Lately, we have noticed that the freezer stops working sporadically.  It also has an ice and water dispenser.  When the freezer is not working, the water dispenser will not work.  When I turn the freezer off, I hear the motor turn off.  The only way I know it is not working, is that I do not feel the cold air blowing and the freezer is not as cold.  Then later, when the air starts blowing and the freezer starts cooling, the water dispenser starts working.  Note: the ice dispenser is still working, but no new ice appears to be making as there does not seem to be water in the ice dispenser.  I do not hear the fan working when the problems are occuring.  Can anyone help give us an idea about where to start?

Thanks! 

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Since I have not had a reply, I thought I would try to explain what we have figured so far and maybe someone can help.

The freezer is working right now, but was off for a while yesterday and may not be working the next time I check it.  When it is not cooling/working, the fan is not blowing, the water dispenser is not working (no water is coming through the door or into the ice maker), and we still hear a motor sound coming from the freezer (if I turn the freezer part off, then the motor stops, but even without it cooling, I hear the motor).  When it is working then everything works fine and the blower works and shuts off intermittantly (as it should I think).  Is the blower suppose to turn off when the door is open?  It does not turn off then....unless it is not working at all. 

Anyway, any input is appreciated. Thanks.

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I would be checking the evaperator fan motor in the freezer, this may be going bad or no power to the motor, what you are hearing running might be the compressor, but with the fan not blowing in the freezer the whole  box warms up.   Something may be freezing the motor up and causing the no water problem since it might be frozen, then all starts working again when you thaw the box.  Might want to remove the rear freezer wall and see if there is some sort of water leaking into the freezer area from the ice maker thru tube area.

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[user=3726]CarolB[/user] wrote:

When the freezer is not working, the water dispenser will not work.

If you're sure about this, then it sounds like there may be a problem with the power supply plug or a power connection in the refrigerator. The dispenser should work regardless of whether or not the compressor is running. Double check that and lemme know,

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Ok, there is no question that the water dispenser is not working when the freezer is not working.  That is how we noticed the problem at first.  When we push the knob for water, we hear a slight motor noise as through the water is trying to dispense.  However, the water does not work (and it also does not fill the ice trays)...when the freezer is not working. But the only things not working are the water dispenser and the blower/fan...that we can tell.  If one is not working, then the other is not.  Everything else works ok and we will also have times where everything is working fine. 

Does this make any sense?

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This is really CarolB's husband.

A little more info, it appears as though it has stopped freezing altogether today.  It has NOT despenced water since last night although when the lever is depressed you can hear the motor hum.

I removed the lower panel off of the back of the fridge and you can see the freon line going into the freezer is froze up outside the back. Looking inside you can see the core has started to freeze.

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I removed the panel inside the freezer over the core and the core is frozen

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If you are referring to the evaperator coil is clogged with ice top to bottom sounds like you have a defrost problem, but how this would effect the water thru the door is beyond me unless the ice is pulling some sort of connector apart.  This would keep the ice maker from working since the freezer needs to be colder than 14 or so for the ice maker to work, this ice could also be blocking your fan in the freezer from running.  It would block all air flow to the food compartment. You will need to see which parts of the defrost system have failed if this is as defrost problem, defrost heater, bi-metal, timer/ADC board or combination of the three.

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Assuming your complete model number is SDC23VW/P1315303**   ** for color example WW for white, here is the breakdown showing ref. # 0063 for the defrost heater, # 0023 for the defrost termination thermostat and # 1124 for the defrost timer bracket, looks like this is on the back of the frig.  If you can access the defrost timer turn the button till the box goes dead except for the light to put the box into defrost and see if the heater comes on.  If it does your timer is bad, if it does not come on check the heater and thermostat on the evaperator for cont. with your ohm meter, be sure the bi-metal is cold or it will show bad.

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The water line is freezing up. I know this now because I turned the freezer off for a few minutes and when I turned it back on everything worked, the fan in the freezer came on AND the water worked and shot out a few little peices of ice the size of the tube.

I had just about figured it was something to do with the defrost system.

How do it check these things?

 Are these things something I can check?

Are these thing something I can fix?

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I can tell you right now the #0023 defrost termination thermostat is froozen and covered in ice.

 

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What is the "bi-metal"?

How will I know if the heater comes on?

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Ok, before you defrost the ice test the heater and bi-metal to see if they read good with your ohm meter.  Or access the defrost timer and turn it to defrost to see if the heater comes on, if it does both of those parts in the freezer are good.  That bi-metal does have known problems with failure by the way.

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OK I KNOW THE HEATER COMES ON, MY FINGER IS BURNED NOW. :D

So that would mean my timer is bad coorect?

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Bi-metal, aka defrost termination thermostat.  You will see the heater glow red and it will get hot and steam will start coming from the ice it is melting.

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Would indicate the heater and bi-metal are good and the timer is not advancing. Now set the rear panel into place and let the heater help you melt all of the ice, what is left when the bi-metal kicks the heater off remove with your blow dryer.   After all of the ice is removed, re-assemble the box and it will cool for 2-3 days while you get a replacement timer.  I would replace that bi-metal also as they are flakey and cause erratic problems.

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It looks like all of the ice has melted off but it has not kicked back on.

Do I need to manually advance the timer until the box starts up again?

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Timer is timed cooling time and defrost time but I suspect you will need to turn it till the box kicks back on, since we suspect the timer is not advancing on its own.

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And you are quite welcome.....  ;)

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Well I replaced the timer a week and a half ago and it worked great for 6 days.

Now it is doing the same thing.

It appears no the heater is not coming on to defrost it.

Any ideas.

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Back to checking the defrost heater and the flakey bi-metal again....

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The evap fan Neutral leg is fed through the deffrost heater and bi metal. Inspect the bi metal, it should ohm closed when it is cold. When they are finicky, the plastic top will usally look crooked or look like someone pulled it off.(ohming it only real way to tell of course). When it is bad, the evap fan will not run, the cold air from the evap migrates over through the air return to the water tank and freezes it. Thus no water through door.  

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Well I checked the heater and replaced the bi-metal. lets see if that gets it.

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