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allowingtoo

LG Tromm Electric Dryer DLE7177WM

70 posts in this topic

I'm way way past that. It's out in the foyer :smile:

Had to have operating room.

Now I have an URGENT question. I broke one of the Cardinal rules. On the thermostat. Is the Yellow wire on the TOP or the BOTTOM when it is plugged in?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Nice pic - can you post one of the thermostat in question?

If it's a thermal disc it shouldn't matter (see if the terminals are labelled c-nc)

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Should I lubricate any of the drum wheels before i put it back together? Or are they sealed bearings and I shouldn't bother? They look a little rusted around there.

A drop of Slick 50?

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the wiring diagram shows a Red wire on each side of the Hi-Limit Thermostat.

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ummm- no - it's just a big white plug going into the back of it - with two wires coming out of it, one white, one yellow.

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if you're asking, "does it make a difference which way the plug goes onto the thermostat pictured"

the answer is "no".

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Ok, just to make sure we're all on the same page. I'd hate to have to take this all apart again.

I guess I was just over tired by this point. I always take pictures along the way. The minute I unplugged this I knew I had made a major major mistake because I did not document it. It was the last step.

(this is after I have re-installed everything)

post-6921-0-83950400-1292638632_thumb.jp

Edited by allowingtoo

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Looks like a go!

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Well.;That wasn't it. Now what?

It's still stuck in that same place when I first started.

If you just push the ON Button it says CHECK FILTER.All the other Buttons go to Default time and you can't operate them. Heavy Duty is 54, Cotton Towels is 55 etc.

Edited by allowingtoo

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No, when I first started posting it was on it's way out. I ran one load of clothes and it quit permanently.

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Took it apart, replaced the Thermistor and Thermostat, vacuumed everything out. Took the little Air compressor to it and blew what I couldn't vacuum out (the motor mostly). Then since I saw some dust up in the Heater element and the Air compressor couldn't blow it out I took that apart and cleaned that out. I did see some burnt dust up in there, so I was glad I did that.

I do have to agree to the 2 Wrench rating. I was a lot easier than it looked at first.

I'm not sure if I have the belt on right though :(

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Whole belt goes under the idler and then streched over the motor pulley - what is the symptom now ?

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It's still stuck in that same place when I first started. Well, second place. First place was it was running and then it quit. Now it is still in the Quit place.

If you just push the ON Button it says CHECK FILTER.

All the other Buttons go to Default time and you can't operate them. Heavy Duty is 54, Cotton Towels is 55 etc.

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Sounds as if it is awaiting input from the door switch

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That means - what? Change the door switch? Use a meter to check the voltage? Page 15? I'm going to have to hire that out - I have no idea how to use a voltage meter!

I keep thinking I should go sign up for a class at the local Vo Tech for Electrician. I'd love to learn how to wire stuff up for real. My dad did that for a living - I wish I had gotten him to teach me before he died.

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Regus & Kdog were on the "ball" here.

I made an error in describing how the THERMAL LIMITER functions in your **electric** dryer.

The electric model LG dryers will CONTINUE to run if the THERMAL LIMITER on the Heater Housing has failed.

The THERMOSTAT on the Blower Housing acts as a "self-resetting" Thermal Limiter for BOTH *gas* AND *electric* LG dryers.

If the THERMAL LIMITER on the Heater Housing fails (on 220v electric models) the dryer will be able to "run" but will not heat.

**********************************

On GAS model LG Dryers---a failed the THERMAL LIMITER on the Heater Housing will **shut-down** the dryer completely.

**********************************

Back to your dryer....

Judging from the amount of lint accumulation inside the dryer---this indicates that the venting was very poor indeed.

The MOTOR has *most likely* failed due to extended run times needed to dry laundry and from high-heat exposure caused by poor venting and heavy lint accumulation on the motor.

The inside of the dryer was an "oven" for a l-o-n-g time.

The MOTOR *overload protector* began to shut down the dryer as it became too hot during the cycle.

Edited by john63

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Touche!

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So I'm sitting at the Local Laundromat last night and I decided I want one of those babies. Extra Large. One where I threw in 3 loads of heavy winter clothes in - sweat shirts and pants, jeans, towels, sheets and everything - and it all dried in 20 minutes. Unbelievable. I can put it in my garage, can't I? :)

Edited by allowingtoo

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Yep, you can get 'em - I've seen lots of folks install commercial type machines in their home; bring a very well oiled chequebook when you go shopping though, and expect ALOT of added installation expenses

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OK, I have an engineer that lives next door and he knows how to use one of those voltage meters. How does he check the motor - is it directly to the motor? Or is it through the control board? I assume the motor has to still be hooked up to the dryer to check it out, right? Otherwise, I'll just take it out and take it over to his house.

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If you just push the ON Button it says CHECK FILTER.

"Check Filter" is just a reminder before every Dryer Cycle

To test the Motor, use the wiring diagram/diagnostics in the service manual

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Is there any way to check the control panel / board to see if it is bad?

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