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romanof

Maytag LA412 Washer

30 posts in this topic

Hello, I'm new here but this looks like a great place to get some answers. Pulled the front cover off my Maytag LA412 washer and looked inside. Motor slides as it should but then found the belt for the drum had broken; laying on floor under washer. Bought a new belt and installed but same problem. Motor pulley spins and pump works but there doesn't seem to be enough tension on the drum pulley belt. Can anyone give me and idea where to troubleshoot next?

Thanks in advance.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Tip the machine up so you can reach under (UNPLUGGED OF COURSE), see if you can rotate the large pulley in the centre by hand in both directions

Some other info here: http://fixitnow.com/...le-care-washer/

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Hello, I'm new here and this looks like a great place to get some advice. My Maytag LA412 agitator stopped turning in all cycles. Pulled the front cover off then looked under the washer; Found the drive belt for the drum broken and laying on the floor. Pulleys looked fine and the pump belt is in tact and wash does pump water out. Replaced the belt for the drum but same problem. Motor turns both drum and pump pulleys and pump belt drives pump but not the agitator pulley. I can smell the agitator belt burning. I checked the slide mechanizm on the motor mounting plate and it's slid back as far as it will go. Can anyone point me in the next troubleshooting direction?

Thanks in advance.

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Merged topics and moved to laundry forum

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If yer real lucky...pull off the tub cover and check for a sock or the like stuck between the tub and the cover or the outer tub

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Merged topics and moved to laundry forum

Good catch, kdog! :thumbsup:

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The large pulley attached to the transmission turns clockwise and moves the agitator back and forth. When turning the pulley counter-clockwise the drum turns. So, not the transmission? I also noticed that the motor is attached to a siiding base and there's very little tension on the belt from the large pulley to the upper motor pulley. Any troubleshooting suggestions?

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Thanks kdog. It's starting to make sense now. No tension on the belt = not enough pull on the springs. I'll pull the whole motor and pad assembly out and lube it up. It I need to replace the springs should I just do that or buy the whole motor pad?:thanks:

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The tension should be pretty loose as the belt is designed to slip when spinning....sounds like your stem bearing may have rusted and is binding. Look at the area right below where the tranny enters the tub. Any signs of corrosion or obvious water leaking?

you say you can turn the pulley Ccw ...how hard is it to get it moving? A free spinning tranny should be able to engage with one finger...

are the springs/slides on the motor plate moving freely?

put the belt back on and pull the motor toward the front while it is starting to spin and see if it will start...

did you ever look under the tub cover for binding socks etc.?

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus

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If you run the unit in spin, can you apply some pressure to the motor tension and make the washer spin ?

These Links may be useful:

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Hmmm. So maybe that's why the belt smells when the wash or spin cycle is engaged - It's rubbing against the motor pulley. From what you're saying, the belt should be loose enough to move freely. And no, one finger doesn't do the trick. No signs of a leak anywhere. Would be obvious since there's no water stains on the floor or under the drum. I'll follow your advice and check for corrosion and clean things up including the motor pad. Thanks so much. Get back to yall when I get this done.

The motor slide is as far back as it will go - - towards the front of the washer. If I push on the belt in spin mode it seems to slow the motor down.

Didn't look for binding socks yet either. I've heard of that. So that's where all the missing socks go. Have a lot of checking to do. Thanks to all for all your advice.

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Did you use OEM belts or generic knockoff when you replaced 'em? Gotta be the OEM belts, the generics don't work right on this machine. Also, OEMs come with tension adjustment diagram on the back of the bag.

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Part number on old belt and new belt match and the replacement belt did come with the tension adjustment diagram. Don't want to assume anything - - but looks like OEM. Would have bought the parts from Repair clinic but didn't know about your service at the time. Will make all future purchases here. Gonna reply to kdog. Looks like he might be right about the bearing.

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Well. After a day of having my 8ft ladder bumped into by blind sales clerks while I was on the top tread pulling a cat5 cable in an open ceiling, went home and openned a brew. Then started to follow your troubleshooting advice. Here's what I found:

- No sock and anything stuck between tub and tub cover

- Put belts back on and adjusted the pump belt

- Put washer in spin mode and pulled back (toward front) on the motor assembly

- Motor bound up

Sounds like you're right about the bearing. But I don't have anything to go on for removal of the tranny pulley and the "caution" label says there's 220lbs of tension. Don't want to loose a finger or anyother body parts. Any diagrams available to get at the bearing or photos of what I'm looking for? Looked on the web and at your other link but I'm still a little fuzzy here. Not because of the beer - haven't finished my first can yet.

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Is there anyway to know it it's the tub bearing or the tranny. The motor binds when I pull back on it in spin cycle.

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If the machine agitates ok, it's doubtful it's a transmission issue - the brake could be locked though. You can remove the pulley in the picture you posted, the spring tension warning refers to disassembly of the brake itself - to remove the brake you require a special tool.

Normally you will be able to see evidence of problems with the tub bearing, look up to the centre of the tub with a flashlight for dicolorations and water traces

Link to Brake Tool:

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<FONT size=3>The machine doesn't agitate or spin. Looked up the center of the tub and no water traces or corrosion. Not sure what kind of discoloration I'm looking for though. I assume what I'm looking at is the tub seal and bearing attached directly to the bottom of the tub. It's free of debris and water stains. Break maybe? <BR><BR>Checked a few more things. Nothing seemed corroded or water stained. Plugged the washer in to test the wash cycle. The agitator doesn't agitate - but now the agitator and tub spins when it didn't before. So maybe laying the machine on it's back and manually rotating the drum, pulley, agitator, etc. over the past couple of dyas freed up what was binding in any cycle. The problem is now my machine won't agitate in the wash cycle but if I manually rotate the large pulley, clockwise I believe, the agitator does move in both directions and rotating the pulley in the other direction turns the drum. Sort of back to square one. Any hints on what to check next? BTW. I don't have the water supply valves openned. Does a no water fill in the washer make any difference? I would think not but thought I'd ask.<BR><BR>Friday night update. When the machine is in a wash cycle, or agitation cycle, nothing happens except a hum from the motor or a relay maybe. Is the problem now related to a control switch? </FONT>

Edited by frankr

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It'll Spin without water, but it won't Agitate untill the Water Level Switch is satisfied.

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Makes sooooo much sense. Thanks so much for the info :thumbsup:

Edited by frankr

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Saturday afternoon update......Okay. Got the drive pulley off so I could do some clean up and re-lube then found what appears to be a peice of gasket material between the bottom of the washer base and inside where shaft exits. Does anyone have an idea what this is and should I be very concerned about it?

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Looks like the damper pads might be worn (see link) - would like to see the pictures of the painted water valves

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Stupid me...I used too high a resolution on the digi cam so the files are too big to upload. Good news! My washer is running through its cycles right now. Agitation is fine and so is the spin. Waiting for rinse cycle to start. Gotta post in the manual request forum. Think you added a response. I'm gonna need to find out what jammed the drive up in the first place. I'll look into the damper pads. The photo shows it's ripped so maybe is was twisted around the shaft but came loose at some point when I was manually turning the drive pulley over the past couple of days.

I want to thank all who provided advise. It was greatly appreciated. Now I can sit back for a while , have a brew, play with my grandkids and stop listening to the wife asking, "When can I wash cloths?".:party:

Here's the water supply pipes and valves replaced. If you look close enough you'll see the ground clamp. And yes, the ground clamp was attached to the painted supply pipe before I did the repair. Totally usless ground to say the least. If I can figure out how to reduce the size of the before photos I'll add them at a later date.

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