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Guy Bartleson

kenmore coldspot fridge 10656532400

12 posts in this topic

Is it possible to determine if the air baffle on this unit is bad using an ohm meter? I am guessing it's that or a def. control board. Freezer cold, fridge 60 degrees. No ice blockage, fan in the freezer working. Almost no air flow through baffle. Found (baffle) doors closed even when on coldest setting. I have temporarily pulled baffle unit out to facilitate air flow and fridge is now cold. I kind of suspect the control board now because i can't seem to achieve a freezer temp. above 10 below, even at the warmest freezer setting. Thank you.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

some diagnostic info on PDF page 1

Service and Wiring Sheet - W10142159.pdf

posted for a limited time

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Wow! Thank you for that. I will run the diagnostics and go from there.

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Hmm. I was unable to start the service diagnostics mode, so I unplugged the unit, waited 30 seconds and tried again. The display only shows numeric cooling levels. There is no pass or fail or any colored light indicators. I will plan to order a new control board. Thanks again.

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Part link for your board ==> Control Board

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Can anyone tell me if the air baffle assembly controls freezer temps as well as fridge temps? At the lowest setting the compressor will not turn off, and the unit doesn't want to go into defrost mode. My fridge stays too warm unless I remove the baffle. Also, does the loose black wire from the baffle hang into the freezer side? (I forgot). Btw, I have replaced the control board?!

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I am thinking I was wrong about the old board not entering the diagnostic mode when it probably actually was. (panicking about warm beer). Also assumed that freezer too cold on lowest setting was the only real clue I needed. Assuming bad.

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Samanera, what turned out to be the issue?  My Kenmore Coldspot 106.79205990 is exhibiting identical symptoms.  Anyone with the knowhow who might read this, how can I manually turn/remove the aforementioned air baffle to at least get some chill on da beers?

 

Mucho Thanko,

Geoff

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Okay, disregard the air baffle question.  After dismantling, I found that I'm not getting proper defrosting...quite the ice damn built up, blocking all airflow to the fridge.  Nyah ha!  So, now I have to figure out why she's not defrosting.

 

Using the wisdom of this board, eight years ago I did the copper-wire extension from the defrost element down into the drain tube, which kept me drip and trouble-free until just recently.  I notice that my copper wire is pretty tarnished; might it be simply that I'm not getting good contact and I just need to replace that wire with a nice new shiny one?

 

Since I've got the works out of the box anyway, should a local parts place be able to do a quick bench test on the defrost timer and thermostat, and maybe the main fridge thermostat too, and tell me which if any are kaput?

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... I found that I'm not getting proper defrosting...

...  I notice that my copper wire is pretty tarnished; just need to replace that wire

...  should a local parts place be able to do a quick bench test on the defrost timer and thermostat

... and maybe the main fridge thermostat too

1) post picture of Evaporator frost pattern ?

2) no

3) maybe, but maybe not for free, could also be a bad Defrost Heater

4) Compressor wouldn't run

 

being a "Merit Apprentice", you should be able to test such devices, yourself.

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Check your air return vent for blockage.  It's located just above the upper crisper drawer on the left side of the fresh food compartment.  If found blocked it could be responsible for all of your symptoms.  Best way to clear it is just to turn unit off for at least 24 hours and let it deice itself.  It's very easy to damage the liner or styrofoam air duct by manually deicing.  After clearing should improve air flow but you may warm air intrusion.  Check gaskets and ice door.  Might need to apply sealant to liner lip at cabinet front if any gaps are found.

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You might still have a bad baffle, as per your earlier post you said it was closed when fridge was warm. When you removed baffle it was allowing too much air to refrig o keep freezer cold enough. An easy way to check return duct, when fridge is running check for airflow at baffle going into refrig section, if no air open freezer door, if you now feel air then the baffle is open and return duct is clogged

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