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tjscata

LG Dishwasher LDS5811WW

9 posts in this topic

This dishwasher is about 5 yrs old and started getting really loud during cycles. Eventually threw the 1E error code. I determined that if I dumped in about a gallon of water after it stopped filling (to bring it up to normal level), it ran fine. This led me to believe it was the float assembly. I replaced both the float assembly and the entire sump assembly, re-installed, and it worked fine for a few days. Now it is back to having the same exact issue. If it was a control board issue, it wouldn't have worked fine for a few days before it started to have the trouble again. So i'm not sure what's going on.

When the cycle starts, it begins the fill and fills for a little while. Toward the end of the filling, the drain pump kicks on while it's still letting water in. Then, the filling stops while the drain pump is still running. it pumps out a bunch of water and then the drain pump turns off. The cycle then starts.

Could it be a bad float assembly? I was thinking about pulling the dishwasher out again and hooking it up with the side panel off to watch the water levels in the float assembly.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

How's the water flow into the dishwasher? If it's a low or anemic little dribble, then there's either a problem with the water supply pressure or the water inlet valve itself it gunked up.

Part link ==> Water Inlet Valve

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I have not checked, i'll take a look tonight and post results.

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<<<I replaced both the float assembly and the entire sump assembly>>>

*******

Replacing the SUMP ASSY (AJH31248604) was definitely needed if it was never replaced before.

Start with this:

1) Disconnect power to the dishwasher.

2) Remove the (6) lower phillips screws on the door (it won't be necessary to remove the screws from around the CONTROL PANEL) and pull off the FRONT PANEL of the dishwasher. Pull down first---then away from the D/W.

3) Very thoroughly inspect the WIRE LOOM from the bottom of the door up to the dispenser assembly. Look for pulled-apart wire(s)---especially the thinner low voltage wires. All wiring that is stuck onto the black tarlike compound should be pulled out & inspected. Repair any broken wires.

Use electrical tape to wrap the WIRE LOOM from the bottom of the door up to the dispenser assy.

Place a small section of cardboard between the now-taped WIRE LOOM and re-assemble the FRONT PANEL.

If you found & repaired a broken wire (especially a thin wire) that was most likely the cause of your 1E error.

Run test the dishwasher.

If the unit still malfunctions...read on.

On the left side of the dishwasher (with the side panel removed)---there's a FLOAT ASSY which has two chambers in it. Both have plastic & styrofoam floats which rise when water fills.

Next to the FLOAT ASSY is the GUIDE ASSY. This has a *paddle-wheel* within it.

As water enters the tub---the MAIN BOARD is measuring the amount of water entering. The "paddle-wheel" is a HALL EFFECT SENSOR which spins as water flows through it---and the data (signal) from this is sent to the board.

Has this (GUIDE ASSY) been replaced as well? If yes---verify that the PLUG from the GUIDE ASSY has been connected.

If not---visually inspect the GUIDE ASSY (paddle-wheel specifically)---for evidence of reddish *iron accumulation*.

If you have a *well*---this is a likely possibility. The iron deposit will "confuse" the GUIDE ASSY Hall Effect Sensor (detects no signal during water fill mode).

This then causes the MAIN BOARD to "think" something is wrong and initiates an emergency DRAIN MODE to prevent overflow/flooding.

Also----if the GUIDE ASSY **was** replaced----read the DATE CODE off the side of it.

For several months---a *vendor* that LG uses to manufacture the GUIDE ASSY---made a critical error in manufacturing the GUIDE ASSY. Though slim---there's always a possibility that you've been provided an incorrect/dud replacement GUIDE ASSY.

Edited by john63

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Hi John, thanks for the message. I have the dishwasher hooked up outside my cabinets right now so i can see what's going on. I will check what you mentioned.

Some additional info from checking the float - the float assembly fills up really fast once the dishwasher starts filling. The first float (toward the door) clicks in after 10 seconds or so. The second one, toward the back, takes a little while longer but trips as its still filling. This is the one that seems to kick on the drain pump while its still filling.

If I hold the drain pump switch down while its filling, it finishes filling fine to the perfect level. The float assembly looks like its going to overflow but it doesn't, but it got really close.

Should the float assembly fill up that quick?

Checking the other stuff now...

By the way, the input valve looked fine.

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guide assembly was not replaced but it appears to function correctly. manufacture date is 11-02-2005

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Where does the DRAIN HOSE hook up?

At the sink (or disposer) connection?

or

Through the floor to a lower drain connection?

Also---are you on a well?

What condition were the wires inside the door?

****************

<<<Should the float assembly fill up that quick?>>>

****************

I never had a need to observe/know about that. There are other methods for verifying that the FLOAT ASSY is functioning correctly.

Edited by john63

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I spent some time working with the float assembly and it seemed to function ok. So then I thought it must be that the water just can't flow out of the other end of the float assembly. Sure enough, there was some crud stuck in the drain hose that comes out of the float assembly. A quick scrub with some pipe cleaners seemed to take care of it. It worked perfectly once i did this and I then found some pretty good size hunks of crud in the drain water after doing a rinse cycle (i was draining into a bucket).

So far so good, i put the dishwasher back in place and hopefully it can stay there. I'll post an update here if it becomes an issue again.

Thanks for the help, John.

Tim

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Oh! I forgot about that one:)

I did see that once. Goopy residue in the TUBE/HOSE that routes from the bottom of the SUMP ASSEMBLY-to-the-FLOAT ASSY.

This is usually oils/scum from the wash water that can build-up to the point of not allowing water in the sump to enter the FLOAT ASSY---which then would normally cause one of the floats to rise and actuate the small microswitch (confirms to the MAIN BOARD that the tub is "full").

Very good investigative work,timsc

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