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robbins67

LG WM2487HWM won't complete final spin gives UE error

23 posts in this topic

I have a LG WM2487HWM that has a very hard time completing the final spin cycle. I just moved from FL to KY and during the move, the washer was transported without any bolts to secure the tub. The movers asked if I had the bolts, I didnt, they moved it without any. Also after using the washer a few times at the new house, one of the internal cold water hoses ruptured. I replaced the hose and the washer acts normal until the final spin. Most of the time it will sit at 9 minutes remaining with the tub slowly spinning one direction, stopping, then spinning slowly in the other direction then a UE error appears. Sometimes I can remove half of the load (small) and just do a spin cycle and it will work. Other times it just spins back and forth and gives the UE error again. I am not sure if the move or the ruptured hose has caused my issue, or neither. I have checked the pump filter and it is clean. What else can I try? Could the main board have been messed up with the water that was spraying allover left rear area of the internals? FYI, an entire set of king sheets and pillow cases washes and spins fine almost everytime. Clothes almost never.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

The UE is an imbalance error. Something may be damaged or off-kilter internally, but it's just as likely to be something about the washer's new work environment RE: floor level, wood vs. concrete floor, equal load bearing among the four footings, etc. I am but a mere dilettante on LG washers compared to the endless font of wisdom on such matters, Sublime Master john63. Here are a couple of his treasured tomes on this subject. Read them well, Grasshoppah-- pop quiz in the morning! :woot:

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<<<Most of the time it will sit at 9 minutes remaining with the tub slowly spinning one direction, stopping, then spinning slowly in the other direction then a UE error appears.>>>

***************

Is the tub shaking excessively?

Is the washer on a WOOD FLOOR?

What is the SERIAL NUMBER?

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... the washer was transported without any bolts to secure the tub...

from the WM2487HWM Owners Manual:

The appliance is fitted with shipping bolts to prevent internal damage during transportation.

Packing and all shipping bolts must be removed before using the washer.

Take out the 4 bolts and braces by twisting the braces slightly.

Keep the 4 bolts, braces and the wrench for future use.

• Whenever the appliance is transported, the shipping bolts and braces must be reinstalled.

 

Part number: 4011FR3159E

Part number: 4011FR3159E

Part number: 4011FR3159D

Part number: 4011FR3159D

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The tub does shake excessively at times, will shake clothes off and on to the floor. The unit is on a wood floor. The serial number is 708KWUC03270. I will check the levelness of the unit in a few. What kind of damage would occur during a move? This is my first front load washer and have not had any issues with my old top load whirlpool through 8 moves in 17 years (military family).

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Ok, just leveled the unit but still have the same issue with the UE code. Took out half of the half load of baby clothes and it takes about 20 minutes to finish the "9 minute" time remaining. Also, when it is doing the spinning one way, stoping, then spinning back the other, it sounds like a pump is starting to run then I hear gurgling from the drain hose then the pump sound shuts off.

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<<<The tub does shake excessively at times>>>

***********

Inspect the STRUTS (similar to car shock absorbers).

Remove the rear access panel and with a bright flashlight---verify that all 3 STRUTS are still in their correct position.

When moving a front load washer without the SHIPPING BOLTS---there's a risk of one or more STRUT separating (it's a 2 piece design).

If a STRUT was found to be separated---it's very likely that the FRICTION PADS fell off and are missing. Simply reconnecting the STRUT without the FRICTION PADS will cause the same symptoms as NOT having a STRUT at all.

An LG washer that remains "stuck" on 9 minutes remaining is usually caused by an imbalance-condition (hence--the "UE" error).

If the STRUTS are fine---then the WOOD FLOOR is likely the culprit. Leveling the *front legs* during a SPIN RAMP-UP is the only way to *minimize* excessive shaking & annoying "stuck on 9 minutes/wet laundry" complaints.

Your washer was made in August 2007.

Beginning November 2008---all LG washers are designed for WOOD FLOOR use (anti-vibration components were added).

Depending on the condition/stoutness of the WOOD FLOOR---it may be impossible to remove excessive SPIN VIBRATION entirely.

**************

<<<it sounds like a pump is starting to run then I hear gurgling from the drain hose then the pump sound shuts off.>>>

**************

Normal.

**************

<<<Could the main board have been messed up with the water that was spraying allover left rear area of the internals?>>>

**************

No.

**************

<<<Most of the time it will sit at 9 minutes remaining with the tub slowly spinning one direction, stopping, then spinning slowly in the other direction then a UE error appears.>>>

**************

The MAIN BOARD is detecting excessive tub shake/wobble----and is attempting to re-distribute the laundry load in the tub before making another HIGH SPEED SPIN ATTEMPT. If the tub cannot be made to be stabilized on **ramp-up**---the MAIN BOARD will **abort** the fast-spin portion of the SPIN CYCLE. Eventually---the MAIN BOARD will default/time-out and end the cycle leaving laundry wet.

**************

<<<I will check the levelness of the unit>>>

**************

Once the washer has been leveled----put the LEVELING TOOL away. It will *never again* be needed for the washer (until the washer is moved again).

Leveling a washer is more for ***cosmetic reasons*** than for maintaining a smooth spin performance.

A front load washer that is slight lower on the left side (but all 4 legs of the washer are flat on the floor) will perform just as smoothly as a washer that is truly level.

A front load washer with the front of the washer slightly raised/higher on the front---will offer the same spin cycle smoothness as a washer that is dead level (as long as all of the legs are flat on the floor).

The cause of excessive vibration (delayed spin cycle) is from other factors such as WOOD FLOOR/disconnected STRUT/etc.

My gut feeling in your case is that---possibly one of the STRUTS came apart during shipping/handling.

Good luck!

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Ok, the leveling seems to have helped some as I have been able to make it through a load of clothes with out the UE code. Tried 4 towels and no luck, UE code again. The floors do not seem to be in bad shape. When I try to "rock" the washer, it appears to be very stable. I did remove the rear panel to inspect the struts and all 3 look fine and do not seem to be damaged in any way. I assume the friction pads are the black washers on either side of the strut where it meets the tub. All of those look to be in place. I cant see all of them but there it no loose movement on any of the three struts. One does seem to have rust on the bottom half of the strut. I can move the tub assembly around pretty easily but it always comes back to rest in the same position. Think I should replace all 3 struts?

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<<<The floors do not seem to be in bad shape. When I try to "rock" the washer, it appears to be very stable.>>>

**************************

If the floor "shakes/vibrates" when 3 or 4 kids run through the room---the washer will as well during the SPIN CYCLE---regardless of how level the washer is.

I'd estimate that about 95% of all wood floors are not strong enough to handle 20+ pounds of wet laundry in a tub that is spinning 1000 RPMs. The up/down motion of a front load washer is different than the side-to-side motion of a TOP LOAD washer during the spin cycle.

**************************

<<<I assume the friction pads are the black washers on either side of the strut where it meets the tub.>>>

**************************

The FRICTION PADS are white-color. Looks like a strip of bubble gum.

Since all 3 struts were in their original condition (not separated) they're fine and not the cause of excessive vibration (or the "UE" error).

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OK, after a few days of doing laundry and tinkering, everything is working again. The floor does look to be the cluprit. I have worked a little more with the feet of the washer where they contact the floor to make sure they are as solid as can be. That seems to have gotten me past the UE code and and the extremely long spin cycles when I get lucky to not get the code. The washer still has a vibration to it but gets the job done. As an added benefit, if I am standing in the laundry room during the final spin cycle, I get a nice foot massage. Thank you Masters for saving me an unwarranted call to lesser repair sensai. Excellent work, take a beer break!

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Hello again. My LG WM2487HWM has gotten much worse. Since my last post the washer began to make a grinding moan at times when trying to spin out clothes. From there it got to where it would only spin out a half load of clothes. As of right now, it moans and groans and sounds like it would like to move the drum but it does not. I can watch the machine and it sounds like it is trying to "sense the load" by spinning the drum (which doesn't spin more than an inch) the water dispenses, the timer counts down all the time making racket like it wants to move the drum but doesn't. Some times it will kick out an LE code other times a UE code as before. Any ideas on what to do next? Is it time to get a Whirlpool?

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Replace the HALL EFFECT SENSOR. Sensors built before 2008 were prone to damage when the incorrect type or amount of detergent was used.

Newer sensors virtually never fail.

Part number: AP4440680

Part number: AP4440680



When replacing the sensor---remove the *tape* from the plug/wires---all the way down to the base of the washer---about 6 inches length.

Inspect the wiring for damage of any kind (usually splitting at the insulation).

In rare cases---when an LG washer is producing *both* an "LE" and "UE" error---the wire(s) may also be at fault.

If a wire was damaged---repair it---and then re-tape the wires.

Add a new nylon "zip tie" but leave some slack for the wire to allow movement during the spin cycle (tub gyrating).

When/if one of these wires becomes partially sheared---this can cause erratic signal feedback to the Main Board---which then causes the washer to ***intermittently*** shake like a wild demon at times.

If my memory is correct---the RED wire---sends data relating to monitoring vibration during the spin cycles.

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Would you give the same diagnosis if the drum spins (noisily) without clothes in it? If it has clothes, especially after becoming wet, it will not turn. It makes the same grinding/groaning noise but the drum will move maybe one inch then come back to rest and keep groaning for 5-7seconds.

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OK. I picked up the hall sensor and as I was disassembling the washer to install it, I found the / another / bigger issue. I was uisng the rotor to help remove the bolt that holds it on and the rotor seemed to be slipping. I finally got the bolt off and removed the rotor. When I looked inside the rotor, at the magnets, there was 1.5 inch long shavings on a few of them. I looked at the shaft that was exposed and it had shavings on it as well as some on the inside of the bottom of the cabinet. The spline on the rotor is stripped so it cant spin the tub. I am not sure how that happened. I can reach in to the shaft that is connected to the tub and move it freely both directions. It looks like the spline on the rotor can be removed and replaced. Any thoughts on what made it fail like this? Anything else I should look for or check? I will still replace the hall sensor just in case since I have it.

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post-64286-0-15294300-1324071535_thumb.j

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You'll need a ROTOR ASSY...  Part number: AP4438254

Part number: AP4438254



Not a common issue for any LG washer---other than the WM0642 models.

The *spline* part of the ROTOR is not available as a separate part.

Yes---the HALL SENSOR most definitely should be replaced.

Don't forget to inspect the *wire harness* that connects to the HALL SENSOR (4 wires).

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There is actually 2 parts listed for my washer. The one you linked to and this one

Part number: 4413ER1003A

Part number: 4413ER1003A


Any ideas on what the difference is? I like the less expensive one. Neither part number match what is on the original rotor.

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<<<Any thoughts on what made it fail like this?>>>

**********************

Most likely from countless excessive-vibration spin cycles (wood floor).---high stress.

During the latter-half of the '08 model year---through early '09---someone in the factory/production line forgot to add *threadlocker* to the Rotor Bolt (17mm)---on the WM0642 model washer.

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Problably a typo/error on the www.repairclinic.com site.

I checked LGs website (parts look-up) and the number you found is the *correct* ROTOR part number.

4413ER1003A  Part number: AP4438254

Part number: AP4438254




-----> I corrected the PART LINK in the earlier post...

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I've been tossing this around in my head quite a bit---and I can't sleep <GRIN>.

Originally--I speculated that the *spline* may have become damaged from excessive shaking/vibration over many months. The more I thought about it---the more I didn't like that theory.

No other LG washer (other than the WM0642) ***ever*** had a failed/stripped ROTOR.

And I've seen HUNDREDS of them from '03 thru early '09.

Then it hit me---I had a service call earlier this year on an LG washer that *REALLY* threw me a loop.

Let me begin by first explaining the difference between the original '03 to early '09 LG washers and the current LG washers---which have a feature called: TRUE BALANCE.

Beginning November 2008---LG washers underwent a dramatic change---in that a new feature called TRUE BALANCE was introduced.

This was the addition of:

1) New Software

2) An Inertia/Balance Sensor (at the top of the tub assy)

3) An Oil & Ball-Bearing filled Balance Ring was added to the front of the Tub Assy

True Balance made it possible to use LG front load washers on wood floors---without the noisy/shaking/vibrating racket which occurred during the *entire* duration of the spin cycle---in earlier (non-True Balance) washers.

At the time TRUE BALANCE was introduced in Nov '08---it was *only* available on the---then new---4.5 cubic foot tub models.

These were easily identified by their *square* door shape---all other LG washers had a *round* door & did NOT have the True Balance option.

About 6 to 8 months later---the True Balance feature was added to ***all*** LG model washers---regardless of tub size.

Fast-forward to summer 2011---I get a service call for an LG washer just past the warranty (about 4 months).

This washer was built in late 2009---and has the True Balance feature (a sticker on the Control Panel).

The customer's complaint: During the spin cycle---the washer will intermittently---become very noisy with growling---thumping.

Also intermittently---the tub will bang uncontrollably---hitting the cabinet.

A random "LE" and/or "UE" error occurs as well.

Once in a while---the wash cycle will function normally---without fail.

During a test cycle---I was able to "catch" the washer during the spin cycle---out of balance (with an empty tub) and a very loud racket caused by the tub contacting/hitting the side of the cabinet.

It genuinely appeared as if the STAINLESS STEEL TUB was out-of-round---but this made no sense either---as the washer occassionally performs flawlessly. I thought then---it has to be either a software flaw or perhaps the BALANCE RING was coming off/loose from the tub assy.

Looking up the part number for the BALANCE RING for this model---I failed to locate it.

A call to LG Technical Assistance for the part number---got me an unusual answer---there's no BALANCE RING for this washer.

Even though it *was/is* a model with the True Balance option/feature.

After more inquiries---I found that even though all LG washers do indeed---have the True Balance technology---ONLY the largest models (4.5 cu ft) had the Balance Ring---because they're ***so*** large and hold so much laundry (weight)---it needed the addition of the Ball Bearing & Oil filled ring.

All other LG washers use only the INERTIA SENSOR & NEW SOFTWARE.

Information that---our *training instructor* (and LG for that matter)---forgot to mention/clarify.

Armed with this new & surprising info---my next thought was to "eyeball" the HALL EFFECT SENSOR.

I cannot recall having the newer-design Hall Sensor fail.

It wasn't high on my list of problables.

The *wire harness* that "runs" from the back of the washer-to-the-Hall Effect-Sensor looked---perfect (about 12 inches length).

After exchanging the Hall Sensor with a new one---a test cycle showed no change/difference.

Next---I disconnected the *wire harness* from the Hall Sensor and the plug at the back of the washer (these plugs are wrapped in a plastic bag to keep water out).

Using a multimeter---I began to test the continuity of each wire from one end of the harness to the other.

In short order---I found a broken *RED* wire on the harness which connects to the HALL EFFECT SENSOR. The *only* thing keeping the red wire together ---was the *insulation*.

The *only* way I could even determine that the wire was broken (no continuity)---was to bend/flex the wire a little bit.

All of the strand-wire had completely sheared/broken.

Only the wire insulation was allowing for erratic/intermittent connection of the RED wire in the circuit.

I had seen this before---but usually the wire was either burnt or there was a clean-break in the wire/insulation and this would cause an immediate error message to be displayed as well.

The cause of the breakage seems to be the result of a slightly-too-taught wire loom.

Possibly an assembly-line worker tightening the wire harness to the frame/base (with a zip tie)---with too little slack to allow adequate movement of the wires during the spin cycle.

Repaired the wire---retaped the harness---added a new zip-tie---performed a test cycle---voila! success!

This is where I had an additional thought...

Although the ROTOR ASSY spline was fine & undamaged---the washer was too new and hadn't been used much.

Since the TRUE BALANCE software relies on sensor feedback from the HALL EFFECT SENSOR---if a RED wire were to be connected/disconnected the way this washer was---problably going "off" & "on" during the spin cycle every tenth of a second---this would severely affect the ability of the software to identify the correct action/commands for maintaining motor speed conducive to proper balance.

Imagine a motor spinning 1000 RPMs but shutting "off" & "on" every tenth of a second.

That would cause a tub to become imbalanced---the software kept losing reliable sensor feedback.

That would also be enough torque to severely strain the spline---until it finally strips-out.

It's still just a theory---but it makes me emphasize the importance of *truly* examining the wires.

Edited by john63

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Oops :)

I forgot to point out that---even though your washer does *not* have the True Balance feature---it DOES have a software-only-imbalanced-load capability (no INERTIA SENSOR).

As such---the ROTOR can (likely) still be damaged...

Edited by john63

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