Tired of guessing on service calls?

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
  • Announcements

    • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

      [Webinar] Basic Refrigeration Sealed System Thermodynamics   09/21/2017

      See this calendar event for details:                   
    • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

      Webinar Recordings Index Page   09/21/2017

      One of the benefits of your Professional Appliantologist membership is that you can attend the regular, live training webinars and you have access to the recordings as well. So if you can't make it to the live webinar, catch the recording at your convenience. The webinar recordings are conveniently listed for you on the Webinar Recordings Index Page.   
JayRucker

York Diamond 80 P4HUB16N08001A - No Flame

Recommended Posts

JayRucker   
JayRucker

I have a York D80 furnace that is not lighting. It gets as far as the small fan runs and the glow plug heats up, but it appears that there is no gas flow. What do I check next?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

jb8103   
jb8103

Make sure your gas is turned on. Check the connections to the gas valve. If connections are tight and clean, test for 24VAC across the connections. If you have the Installation Manual, find the wiring diagram, scan it in, and post the image here. York literature is hard to come by so that will be a big help. You might have a "smart valve" but I doubt it.

Also look for error codes on the control board. Flashing LEDs. There will be a key to interpret them either on the wiring diagram or on a sticker next to the wiring diagram which should be stuck on to the inside of the furnace door.

Edited by jb8103

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
applianceman18007260692   
applianceman18007260692

OK The inducer fan comes on and the glowbar fires up. Then you should hear the CLICK/WHOOSH! Do you hear click but no whoosh? or no click at all?

If you hear a click but no whoosh of ignition then I would say one of them rollout switches is tripped OR the gas valve solenoid is bad. A quick check for continuity on the gas valve will verify that. If you hear no click at all I would say the board is not getting power from the pressure switch because the negative pressure from the inducer is not present. Clogged tubing from the inducer to the pressure switch OR the inducer fan ain't causing enough draft to trip the pressure switch and therefore the control board cannot get confirmation and aborts the mission. Captain we have a problem. What is is Spock i never allow yall to drink while on duty. Captain dilythium crystals won't fire off and I am freezin my aszs off up in here.

Edited by applianceman18007260692
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JayRucker   
JayRucker

No codes. Gas is on. The valve is a White Rogers - Gemini G3624Y. Across the wires, I am reading 1.4 v Dc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JayRucker   
JayRucker

OK The inducer fan comes on and the glowbar fires up. I hear a slight click from the circuit board. (Is this the click of which you speak, or should it be a louder click from the valve?) I recently had a drainage problem and the roll-out switch on the left side appears to have been previously wet. If this were bad, wouldn't it prevent the glowbar from glowing? or Is it possible that this is my problem? I tried bypassing it with a jumper and still no fire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RegUS_PatOff   
RegUS_PatOff

(1) Gas Valve

(1) Gas Valve Relay

(4) Roll Out Switches

(1) Primary Limit Switch

(2) Auxiliary Limit Switches on Blower Inlet

(1) Spill Switch (Chimney Kit)

frominstphu0404.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JayRucker   
JayRucker

OK, once the brain cloud of night wore off. I realized I was checking for DC not AC voltage. I checked the wires at the valve and got 24 VAC. Does this mean the valve is bad?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
applianceman18007260692   
applianceman18007260692

Take the wires off the gas valve solenoid and check for continuity. If you cannot get a reading the valve is bad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JayRucker   
JayRucker

I get an open across the terminals on the valve. I guess the wooosh I just heard was a couple hundred bucks leaving my wallet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RegUS_PatOff   
RegUS_PatOff

... I guess the wooosh I just heard was a couple hundred bucks leaving my wallet.

... a couple hundred bucks less than if it went through someone else's wallet first :whistling:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
applianceman18007260692   
applianceman18007260692

Shop around. A new valve should be less than $100 bucks.

Edited by applianceman18007260692

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now