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AlboGator

GE Gas Range. Live insulated wires?

10 posts in this topic

I'm going to call this one "Something BIT ME!". Not literally but I did get shocked today for the first time in a long time. I ran across a range that the oven was not heating. Pulled the ignitor and saw that the wires were charred and unattached behind some porcelain wire nuts. No big deal right? So after getting the whole bottom of the oven out to gain access to what was left of the wires I saw that the insulation was black and charred but not so bad, just looked like a wire burned up. I pulled the old wires out and ran some new ones around the back of the range, re-assembled, turned it on and nothing. So at my splices I was going to check for power and zap!!! When I grabbed the wires it shocked me. ??????? (insert profanity here) I couldn't believe what had happened. I took out my meter and sure enough from the insulated wire to ground I was getting 100-110v. I propped up my meter and my leads to get my arms and hands out of the way and took a pic because I wasn't sure I believed it myself. Anyone else ever run into this?

I replaced the wires and that corrected the live insulation problem but the ignitor would never come on. I checked the voltage across the wires (one from the gas valve and one from the orange wire in the harness) and only got 44v. Any of this make sense? Also when I had the old wire in my hands I ohmed out the insulation to the wire and got ol on the meter. I'm confused about this one.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Sounds like you have either a bad oven thermostat or a bad electronic control. You should not have votage going to the ignitor wires when the oven is turned off.

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"Turned it on" as in set it to bake, voltage went to 0 when I cancelled the bake or I'll dare say "turned it off".

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If there was any grease, oil, or carbon from a charred wire, etc, on the outside of the insulation,

it can be a conductor from a non-insulated (or another charred section) portion of the wire.

If there is 44v across the Gas Valve, it's bad ... should only be 3v

Range model number ?

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Thanks, but you can see the wire in the pic. There is a little black spot on it but not where the meter was sitting to get the voltage. The wire was intact and even ohmed it when I pulled it off from connector to insulation and got nothing.

JGSP23WEY1WW

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... a little black spot on it but not where the meter was sitting

...The wire was intact and even ohmed it

1) may be some oil residue on the insulation, try cleaning with alcohol

2) try your OHM meter on the highest MEG-OHM scale

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is it possible that the polarity is reversed?

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With all that zapping going on, it's also possible that the bimetal in the gas valve got smoked. UNPLUG THE RANGE, remove one of the ignitor wires from the gas valve and ohm across those terminals. Should read nominally zero ohms. If you get some high resistance reading or open, the gas valve is FUBAR.

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Thanks guys,

Ohmed it out with the ignitor unattached and got a weird reading, I know it wasn't 0 but don't remember exactly what it was.

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... I know it wasn't 0 but don't remember exactly what it was.

should be 1 OHM

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