Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Dumbstruck by the new computer-controlled appliances? Let the Samurai enlighten you…

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
davetoolin

Sub Zero 642 Refrig warm

20 posts in this topic

Have a Sub Z 642/F Sn P1857170 built 10/2001 that we moved from one house to another and it was in storage for 6 months. just reinstalled it and the Refrig won't cool.

freezer works fine.

Re frig. stuck at 68 degs. Fan at top of refrig box seems to spin. cleaned the coils on the top.

Control panel doesn't have any error codes.

Looking for the technical manuals and or any hints as to where to start?

thanks in advance Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Mod.# 642/f 42" built-in......we need to look at the evap panel....remove the shelf's light cover and a few screws ,,,, let it run for a hour or so...what does the frost pattern look like??? post a picture so all can see..........visit the section "service manual request" section ...........................keep us posted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the Evap coil is room temp, not a hint of frost, Seems like the compressor is not on at all.

Dave

Sorry for the bad picture

post-65356-0-51139600-1320422415_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... Seems like the compressor is not on at all.

does the Fan inside the Fridge run ?

(when the Fridge Door Switch is closed)

SUBZERO 600-1 Addndm & PARTS

link PM'd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes the fan runs, Got the Manual, Still trying to decode the service modes. Thought I had the Refrig compressor running for a few minutes. but can't seem to duplicate that.

Still reading thanks for the manual.

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes the fan runs,

if the Fridge Fan runs,

then the Fridge Compressor should run,

unless the Compressor Start Relay is bad,

OR the Compressor Overload is bad.

OR the Compressor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

got it, tomorrow i trace power thru that path to the fridge compressor, very helpful.

ps what does the NTSC beer refer to?? fixed alot of TV's in my time and beer is good too.

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Chief NTSC Black & White

all references to TV :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

okay. I have power to the start relay. but then i pulled it off and measured no power between any two of the three pins from the relay?(brown thing) with 2 pin sockets and the white thing(overload protector).

Can anyone tell mie what i should expect there, the wiring diagram doesn't help mujch for how these three parts interact??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oops I lied, didn't wait long enough.

measured from the chassis there is 110v on the top pin of the compressor. and nothing on the two bottom pins.

guessiing I need a compressor.

Is it under warranty??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

measure the resistance OHMs between the (3) Compressor pins...

should be anywhere between 5 to 15 OHMs ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay,

top pin to lower left 7.7 ohms

top pin to lower right 8.9 ohms

lower pins to each other 16.6 ohms.

Little suspicious that 7.7 plus 8.9 equal 16.6??

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

7.7 plus 8.9 equal 16.6??

YES

... measured from the chassis there is 110v on the top pin of the compressor. and nothing on the two bottom pins.

test again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got out the multi meter

readings

Grey wire - 121.9 VAC

Top Pin - 121.6 VAC

Brown wire and lower left pin 143.1VAC

Double white wire and lower right pin 0.VAC

Bottom White Wire - 0.0VAC

Also heard a relay click on and off a few times. Sometime the voltage on the top pin would disappear. but then it would click back and reappear and stay that way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Replace the start relay it is bad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I pulled out the PTC Start relay and measured it per section 6.3 of this document from Embraco and the resistance was 4.2 ohms So I think the relay is okay.

http://www.embraco.com/DesktopModules/DownloadsAdmin/Arquivos/g6fvojOMAG.pdf

One more piece of info. this morning the fridge was 62 deg inside. There may actually be some cooling going on albeit very small

Could it just need a refrigerant recharge??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... I pulled out the PTC Start relay and measured it per section 6.3 of this document.

.. There may actually be some cooling going on albeit very small

... Could it just need a refrigerant recharge??

1) could still be bad..

2) does the Fridge Compressor run ? OR click ... pause.... click ?

3) if it was low on Freon, and there's no frost, then the Compressor would be running "forever"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The clicking only happen that one time.

Now after powering down the fridge and turning it back on I hear one click about after about 15 sec.

I took apart the brown thing we are calling the PTC start relay, but is sure didn't look like and relay I have seen.

no moving part inside. assume the click is from the overload dohickey??

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To wrap up this thread, here is what end up happening. Finally convinced myself with the help from this forum that it what not an easy electrical problem I could fix. Called the local service place they came out and immediately diagnosed it as a defective evap coil.

The ordered the part( part covered the warranty and installed it 4 days later. working great.

The tech told me that during this time the used an aluminum coil that if left not running for a long period of time(ours was off for 6 months) they develop pin hole leak and even a recharge won't help.

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your tech was correct on the leaking of the refrigerant from the evap.coil.....BUT, the pin hole was there way before the unit sat for the six months.....What you had was a "low side refrigerant leak"....The refrigerant will leak out when the is not operating, AND will not/barely leak out when the system is operating.... ( loss of molecules at a time ) ............... Low side of the system operating pressure is about 30 psi..... high side could be up to 90 psi........ I acquired an Amana refer from a customer that they had purchased , it had sat 3 months... low to no charge in the system.....Recharged the unit and it has been operating for 9 months...Had a set of gauges on it for the first 6 months and the low side psi had not dropped.........I keep it as a refer at the warehouse to keep the lunch and beverages :pint1: cold. Too expensive to replace the evap coil and sell, so it is a test bed for how long before the low side psi drops and freezer starts to warm...... What is interesting is the operation of the compressor ..As previously noted, a low charge will make the compressor operate / run longer... and the proverbially buzz / click that was previously mentioned... P.S. did the filter dryer get changed also???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites