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Kenmore washer doesn't drain (model 417 40412700)

11 posts in this topic

My wife greeted me last evening with "I've got some bad news..." then proceeded to tell me that the washing machine is full of water and the clothes are soaked. So naturally, the first place I thought to check was right here.

I've seen the search results here and they're helpful, except I'm a little confused by the pics linked here: http://fixitnow.com/...57617111103075/

I'm not sure about which end of which hose to disconnect to clear out any obstructions. It would seem logical to undo the top of the fat hose coming off the bottom of the drum, but that's just a ring with a screw and in the picture it looks like those pliers are just clamped onto the accordian hose itself. Should I just disconnect all the hoses that are connected to the pump? Any other tips? I already know I should expect a flood of water whatever hose I disconnect.

Thanks!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

ok you should disconnect the end of the hose closest, to the drain pump. By this I mean the hose comming from the tub to the drain pump. The pliers on the accordian hose are pinch off pliers, to stop the flow of water, from the tub to the drain pump.

Edited by Comstock_Services

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I just wanted to follow-up and say thanks for the info on this web site and thanks for the pics posted in the link I posted above. I decided to attempt the fix yesterday and had everything buttoned-up less than an hour later. As is typical with me and fixing things, more time was spent wondering if I was going to screw something up than actually doing the work.

Just for ease of cleaning out everything, I ended up disconnecting all the hoses attached to the pump and just removing the pump entirely, then removing that big mother hose coming off the bottom of the drum. And yep, that's when I became $1.54 richer. A soggy one-dollar bill was wrapped around that plastic filter thing in that hose, and two quarters and four pennies were sitting inside it. All that and a small wad of hair or fuzz or something otherwise unidentifiable. Once I got all that out of there and wrestled with getting the clamps back on, I was all set. Load of wash #4 for the day is running right now and nary a leak in sight. More importantly, the clothes are wringing out in the spin cycle and there's not a tub of water left behind.

So thanks again. I almost feel I should apologize to the plumber I might have called if I hadn't found this site. One more thing I'm always discovering with these little projects: it sure helps to have the right tool for the job. I spent far too much time going back and forth into the tool box. And it didn't help that the gas dryer was stacked on top of the washer and I was working while lying on my belly the whole time.

P.S. A big thank you for the warnings about the water left in the hoses and pump. I was ready with a towel, a shallow pan and a Shop-Vac and as a result, maybe a tablespoon of water made it onto the floor.

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For what it"s worth - I usually ditch the floating plastic catch-all from the intake trap, something that was added in the last few years and overall it just makes the job of cleaning the trap more of a hassle. Also, unstacking is not necessary to perform the "Crap Trap Enema", simply remove the lower access panel

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Panel/131279300/406963?modelNumber=417.40412700

 

00888354.jpg


Gold Jerry, Gold !

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Oh yeah, the panel removal was the least of my problems. It just might have been a little more convenient to have nothing on top of the washer so I could at least tilt it back or otherwise make the work area a little easier to access once that panel was off. Interesting that you mention that "floating plastic catch-all". I hadn't seen it mentioned before and at first I figured that was what was blocking the flow of water. Then logic and common sense took over and I realized that it must be a "feature". I'm hesitant to remove sanything the desingers might have figured had a real purpose, so I guess I'll have to deal with it again if I ever have to venture back into the hoses. :no:

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I believe the idea was for them to keep items from entering the pump impeller, but means disconnecting the large bootclamp to access the top - they were only added in recent years and without it you can clean the trap by removing only 1 pumpclamp and tipping the boot back. Best way to prevent blockages is to empty pockets etc whilst loading machine. In more recent years they have also decises that the lower access panel is no longer required so the whole front of the machine needs removal (then unstacking is also required !) - so that proves that engineering changes are not necessarily "better".

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I became $1.54 richer. A soggy one-dollar bill was wrapped around that plastic filter thing in that hose

And you got paid to do the job to boot, the dollars are large coins here so they really block up the trap, but you earn them easier if you have less clamps to remove ;)

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... I ended up disconnecting all the hoses attached to the pump and just removing the pump entirely,

... then removing that big mother hose coming off the bottom of the drum.

... that's when I became $1.54 richer.

... A soggy one-dollar bill was wrapped around that plastic filter thing in that hose,

... and two quarters and four pennies were sitting inside it.

... All that and a small wad of hair or fuzz or something otherwise unidentifiable.

... and wrestled with getting the clamps back on,

that's why Appliance Repairmen are always happy... :)

.. all that extra money they make :whistling:

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No Tickie - No Laundry ! - enough fer a Dubble Dubble at Tim's at least

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Kdog, there is no need to remove the complete boot to remove that added clog feature in the new machines.

It will come out the bottom of the boot, (the smaller pump connection outlet), takes a little work but I think it's easier then removing the complete drain boot.

I always remove and toss the clog cup in the trash when I work on these.

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