Learn how to troubleshoot using schematics like a real tech…

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
snelljm

Dryer won't start ASKO T700

15 posts in this topic

I

ASKO T700 Dryer re-assembly help needed.

I replaced a belt and pulley assembly and put everything back together but now the dryer doesn't do anything when I press START.

The parts were correctly ordered from RepairClinic.com and were installed correctly but now I have the cleanest, nicest dryer that won't start.

The washer (ASKO W600) plugs into the dryer and the washer works when the dryer is plugged in. The belt and pulley are installed per the picture that came from RepairClinic.com.

My only guesses are:

1) That the door is not attached correctly. The 'reversable' bracket fell off when I took the front door off and I hadn't taken a picture of it beforehand.

2) The drum is not seated correctly against the front of the dryer.

Background:

Thanksgiving Day. My husband was upstairs preparing a romantic dinner for two. I was downstairs finishing up the last of the laundry but the dryer seemed to be taking longer than usual.

Upon inspection, the dryer drum had stopped turning but the dryer was still blowing heated air. Since both the washer and dryer had been running when I heard a ‘pop’ sound, I checked the fuses first. One came apart in my hand. Hmmm. Opening the bottom panel of the dryer showed me the broken belt. Needless to say, I decided to enjoy our dinner and said nothing about our dryer problem.

The next day, I planned to order parts and figure out whom to call. RepairClinic.com provided pictures of the parts needed for both the fuse assembly and the belt and the correct parts were ordered. I also found drawings of pulley and belt assemblies and the pictures indicated probably a front area of the dryer.

Since a washing machine interaction with a ‘trained’ ASKO service provider in our area was less than fun - huge trip charge, little experience or native intelligence, and then didn’t have parts – not to mention loss of work hours and pay for me to sit around waiting – I was game to attempt my own dryer repair.

The fuse assembly was replaced and then I was back to my original problem. Having ordered the belt and pulley assembly at the same time, it was now time to replace the belt. After taking the top of the dryer off, it was still unclear where the drive and pulley assembly were located or how to get to them. Groan….

I was unable to find drawings and ASKO never sent any after I called to ask for instructions from their parts department. Afraid of taking the back panel completely off and screwing up the drum, I was able to get the plastic venting pieces out and use the back and side round venting holes to slip my arms into the pulley area.

Well my maneuvers proved almost comical – except for the subsequent bruising up and down both arms. Being female gave me the smaller arm advantage to use those stupid holes but my lack of upper body strength made getting the belt onto the pulley (without loosening the drum) almost impossible.

I said ‘almost’. It got done. Then I battled with the plastic pieces only to hear them come apart just as I thought it was finally time to celebrate.

Well it all finally got together and I replaced the lid and pressed start. NOTHING.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

================

I replaced a belt and pulley assembly and put everything back together but now the dryer doesn't do anything when I press START.

================

First off, kudos for taking matters into your owns hands! I'm sure we can help you get this sick pup running again.

================

The washer (ASKO W600) plugs into the dryer and the washer works when the dryer is plugged in. The belt and pulley are installed per the picture that came from RepairClinic.com.

================

Couldn't find a diagram for the stacker unit but I do have one for the dryer itself ==> http://dl.dropbox.co...08061835r03.pdf (also PMed it to you)

================

My husband was upstairs preparing a romantic dinner for two.

================

I can only hope that where you were unlucky with appliances, you were lucky in love. :kiss:

================

Since both the washer and dryer had been running when I heard a ‘pop’ sound, I checked the fuses first. One came apart in my hand. Hmmm. Opening the bottom panel of the dryer showed me the broken belt.

================

I think the pop sound was the sound of the belt breaking and clanging agains the dryer shroud. I think the fuse breaking was coincidental to you touching it-- may have been already cracked or otherwise on the verge and your touch was just enough to make crumble. So, I'll proceed on the assumption that the only real initial problem was the broken belt.

Could you post a photo or two of the fuse assembly as it exists now and the part number of the fuse assembly that you replaced?

================

I was unable to find drawings and ASKO never sent any after I called to ask for instructions from their parts department. Afraid of taking the back panel completely off and screwing up the drum, I was able to get the plastic venting pieces out and use the back and side round venting holes to slip my arms into the pulley area.

================

I wish you had come here first so we could have fixed you up with the repair manual! (Two service manuals PM to you, BTW.) There is a special tool to help hold the drum while you disassemble but it can be done without it. Here's the procedure from the manual for replacing the belt:

CHANGING THE DRIVE BELT

1. Remove the top cover (see page 23) and the rear panel (see page 26).

2. T720/780: Remove the external fan housing (see page 32).

3. Remove the special tool.

4. Remove the belt from the belt pulley and take off the belt.

5. Feed the belt over the drum onto the motor shaft and over the belt pulley.

6. Install the special tool.

7. T720/780: Replace the external fan housing.

8. Replace the rear panel and top cover.

================

Then I battled with the plastic pieces only to hear them come apart just as I thought it was finally time to celebrate.

================

Uhhh, tell me about them plastic pieces, darlin'.

================

Well it all finally got together and I replaced the lid and pressed start. NOTHING.

================

We need to first verify a valid power supply to the dryer itself and then, from there, determine where in the circuit we're losing power. Having power to the washer does not necessarily equal having power to the dryer.

You'll need a multimeter and the ability to make simple electrical measurements. I don't know how much background you have in this so let me know where you're at and I can post appropriate resources for you to learn what you need to measure simple stuff like resistance and voltage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your quick and thorough advice. I am printing this out to read more closely. A couple notes:

The special tool I used was my head to hold the back panel while I replaced the belt and pulley (and I did use the new spring as Repair Clinic advised)

Some notes and answers to your questions:

1)Training/ability. On a scaled of 1-5 I would say 3.25. I don’t have a voltmeter. Just a continuity checker for now. I do have electronics training and was in the Air Force as a radar technician – long time ago. Currently work with computer security and have not done appliance repairs before. However I understand the concepts and can implement most repairs with the right info.

I feel confident that the fuse assembly was replaced correctly. (the bottom fuse was the fuse that came apart when trying to check them ). It didn't crumble or break in a blown fuse way. The other silver end simply stayed in the housing so the fuse holder would need to be replaced to get anywhere with fixing my overall problem. Even got some extra fuses (slow blow) to keep on hand. Swapping those out didn’t help when my re-assembled dryer wouldn’t start. Groan….Needed a beer then.

Question: My pictures don’t seem to upload to your site and attempts to make them smaller haven’t worked. They are large files and I zipped them so I could email them to you if permitted.

2)Attempting to interpret the wiring diagram that was folded and placed into the wiring was difficult and only partially in English. It was kind of faded. Made some copies and tried to enhance but still kind of iffy. The enhanced schematic was saved in a pdf format that I will try to upload. If not that can be emailed as well.

3)The “Plastic Pieces” I referred to are the large plastic venting ducts that block any view of the belt/pulley system from the rear panel viewing. They also needed to be cleaned of lint that is unreachable when they are installed.

and lastly thanks for the thoughts but my husband is having knee replacement surgery this Friday so I am just trying to keep him calm and injury-free (any open cuts or stuff would delay surgery) That is the primary reason I am doing this solo. But the prime rib meal was AWESOME. Try COOKS magazine. Wow!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some notes and answers to your questions:

1)Training/ability. On a scaled of 1-5 I would say 3.25. I don’t have a voltmeter. Just a continuity checker for now. I do have electronics training and was in the Air Force as a radar technician – long time ago.

What a coinkydink-- I was an avionics technician, also radar, in the Navy! Just go to your local hardware store and you can get a goodnuff meter for 10 to 20 bucks. Good to go, recruit!

Question: My pictures don’t seem to upload to your site and attempts to make them smaller haven’t worked. They are large files and I zipped them so I could email them to you if permitted.

Upload them to the Gallery section of this site-- nearly unlimited upload size and storage there ==> Gallery

OR can upload them to a free image hosting service (Flickr, Photobucket, Picassa, etc., etc.) and then either embed them here or post the links here for us to click and view.

2)Attempting to interpret the wiring diagram that was folded and placed into the wiring was difficult and only partially in English. It was kind of faded. Made some copies and tried to enhance but still kind of iffy. The enhanced schematic was saved in a pdf format that I will try to upload. If not that can be emailed as well.

Make me a purdy copy so I can sing along wif you. :dazzler:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My husband had a total knee replacement last Friday (12/9/11) so I haven't been home much except to sleep. Since I quickly obtained a 'beater' dryer, the ASKO is going to have to wait another week or so. Partners come first, then appliances (the pets somewhere in between). No one can say my priorities are askew.

Posting will resume when next I tangle with the square white devil dryer. - Later

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stand back ASKO! You may not be customer support friendly but I mastered the your Model T700 dryer and the private band in my head played full blast.

After doing everything possible to avoid going the final round with my broken dryer, I finally dragged my butt downstairs with a multimeter and finished the ASKO T700 dryer fix this past New Year's weekend.

2011 went out with all screws in place and drum rolls!!!!

New Years Day. 2012. Working alone for hours, I was exhausted and bruised but when it was all over the funky little square white machine was forced to roll over and dry my clothes!!!!

There were a few obstacles along the way (which I will document later) but the FINAL problem turned out to be fairly simple - that f*&I(@$^ LITTLE TINY WHITE pointed plastic piece on the door (that applies pressure to a tiny switch that tells the dryer that the door is closed) was broken off when the front panel door was removed.

In the process of repair, pictures were taken of everything before I would remove it. I had loosened the hinge bracket from the front panel but didn't expect the door to fall off before I could react. When it did, the little funky piece of plastic must have broken off.

What kind of designing is that????

Repair for other appliance repair newbies goes like this:

Contact the Samuri man and get the stinkin' service manual that "authorized" repair folks use.

ASKO service dept personnel never did send me the promised diagrams of the back panel assembly.

The drawings from repairclinic.com were excellant but they only send drawings of the parts ordered. Duh.

______________________________________________________________

I will upload pictures this weekend but wanted to give an update since the dryer is functioning again. Took the money I saved and ordered a new TV for the bedroom. My husband had his knee surgery and has been too medicated to care about the dryer but he is very proud of my tenacity. Yeah...me too.

Why let some stranger mess up your appliances when you can get on this forum and do it your own self?

Note: The little plastic piece has been glued on twice and worked for a day or two of constant use. 'Over it' and thoroughly disgusted, I stuck a bent piece of plastic tie wrap into the little hole until my brain figures out how to screw in something that will function appropriately and not short out the switch.

Now it is time to complain to ASKO... and thank the Samurai Appliance Repair Man for his helpful documents, his endless appliance wisdom and witty comebacks.

During those lonely hours of T700 ASKO dryer battle, his support and forum comments kept me laughing internally - willing to ignore the sweat running into my contacts - to find a higher purpose in applianceland.

As for ASKO. The beautiful design of the overall dryer flawed by a majorly CHEAP design flaw in the (obnoxiously important) "door closed" switch assembly. Later - Judy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Out-freakin-standing job, Judy! And great repair war story, too, domo for taking the time to write it up and post it!

surfers.gif5a.gif5a.gif5a.gif

And for your heroism under duress, you have earned the coveted and cherished Apprentice of the Minute™ Award. Kanpai! :samurai:

gallery_4_16_71777.png

applause.gifapplause.gifapplause.gif

This Bud's for you, you deserve it

waitresswithmug.gif

Would LOVE to see the freeze frames of your action shots while you were deep in the belly of the beast; you can add them to your album in the Gallery ==> http://appliantology...m/15-asko-t700/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hilarious tenacity...Dohh!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Snelljm and Samurai, 

 

Thank you for this valuable thread!  

 

I joined because this is the place to be when it comes to needing some humor and precise information when dealing with our annoying Asko's!

 

I have and Asko T700 dryer and W620 washer.  The washer plugs into the dryer, so that creates some logistical issues if the dryer dies.

 

A couple years ago, during my first foray into the belly of the beast, I ended up switching the wires in the panel after the start button stopped 'clicking in'.  So now I have to press a different button to start the dryer...  It's a workaround...  

 

But I digress...  

 

I have needed to hit the reset button on my T700 after almost every load for several years now.  I figured I was on borrowed time when this started, but now....  after all these years, I'm not going to just let it die! The clothes dry completely and the drum turns, but somewhere it must sense it is overheated and trips the switch.

 

The informational videos and this forum helped me troubleshoot the problem down to performing the continuity tests.  I have a multimeter, and know how to use it.  

 

I first checked and cleaned the most accessible places for lint - the venting hose, the bottom of the machine by accessing through the lower front panel and stuffing a hose down the venting housing on the inside.  

 

I removed the top and unscrewed around the outer rim of the back panel, but then got hesitant after that.  It wasn't obvious if all I needed to do was unscrew the conical thing in the center???  The manuals also talk about a 'special tool'....  What does it do and is it necessary?  It is the key to Crypton or something?  

 

I ended up putting it back together until I was more confident about the next steps.  It works just like it used to, for better or worse.

 

I'm looking for some guidance and input.  How easy is it to disassemble and remove the back panel completely, and then what are the tips, tricks and realities of putting Humpty Dumpty back together again?  Should I just continue resetting it each time?  Any thoughts on the likely culprit?

 

If anyone has a picture of the proper wiring going into the panel, I'd like to get a new button and wire it back the way it should be.  I'm more visual than diagramatic - color by number please!

 

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My opinion on Asko products,  ONLY buy them if you don't have space for a full size washer and dryer, otherwise don't buy these pains in the Askos.

 

Even better is this:    http://www.whirlpool.com/-[WFC7500VW]-1001633/WFC7500VW/

Edited by Scottthewolf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My venting system is very simple, the dryer is positioned right next to the vent to the outside.  I have a flexible venting hose that makes a slight S curve to join the two.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...  I have a flexible venting hose that makes a slight S curve to join the two.  

not crimped when Dryer is slid back into place ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Correct, the dryer is not impeding the airflow to the vent.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites