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bigcrunch

fan does not always work in heat mode

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jumptrout

Do the fan wires still have voltage after the fan stops?

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bigcrunch

Only place I could test it are on the brown capcitor and yellow transformer wires, both had 120v after fan stopped and temp came up to thermostat setting.

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jumptrout

The brown capacitor wire is semi-irrelevant.

You need a reading from yellow and most likely black to the fan motor when it stops running.

If you have 220 volts the fan motor is bad.

If you have no volts and the heaters are still on,you have a fan relay problem.

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applianceman18007260692

Did you get it fixed yet?

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bigcrunch

It has 120 volt on the yellow also black wire after fan stops.

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applianceman18007260692

Could one side of your breaker be going out like this one? Click pic:

post-2707-0-60134300-1325364125_thumb.jp

Edited by applianceman18007260692
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jumptrout

If you still have power to the heaters,verified by amp draw and the fan stops running you have a Bad fan relay. Opening too soon.

If the heaters are off,the fan should run 90 seconds longer before turning off.

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RegUS_PatOff

maybe this info ?

Installation Manual

Direct Expansion Fan Coil Units PF1M

Sizes 018—071

im-pf1m-01.pdf

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bigcrunch

applianceman18007260692 I took a look at the main cricuit breaker looks fine.

jumptrout when the heat and fan are off, amp draw on the yellow and black leads are .02amps. I'll check for voltage to the heat strips in the am.

RegUS_PatOff I took a look at the install manual, wiring diagram mateches to what is in the unit...

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bigcrunch

Ok went ahead and took a look at the voltage on heat coils after thermostat shuts heat off. Has 120v to it, looks like it is coming from the light blue wire on the circuit boardrelay look at pic DSC02168 on page one, it is a dark blue once it passes thru wire connector.

It feeds back to the right side of the sequencer that has all the devices attached to it pic DSC03165.

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jumptrout

Either I am not writing correctly or you are not interpreting correctly.

1. Put your amp meter on a heater wire.

2. Turn the heater on.

3.Heater comes on followed by the fan.

4.Fan stops running.

5. Are the heaters still drawing amps when the fan quits?

6. If heaters are drawing amps,does the fan motor have 220 volts measured at yellow and black?

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jumptrout

Ok went ahead and took a look at the voltage on heat coils after thermostat shuts heat off. Has 120v to it, looks like it is coming from the light blue wire on the circuit boardrelay look at pic DSC02168 on page one, it is a dark blue once it passes thru wire connector.

It feeds back to the right side of the sequencer that has all the devices attached to it pic DSC03165.

All this is normal.

With the thermostat satisfied you will always have half power (120 volts) to one side (incoming) from the pwer supply. The other leg is made through switches and relays on a call for heat.

This provides 220 volts to the fan and heater.

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telefunkenu47

Glad Im an oil man

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bigcrunch
Either I am not writing correctly or you are not interpreting correctly. 1. Put your amp meter on a heater wire. 2. Turn the heater on. 3.Heater comes on followed by the fan. 4.Fan stops running. 5. Are the heaters still drawing amps when the fan quits? 6. If heaters are drawing amps,does the fan motor have 220 volts measured at yellow and black?

After the heat cycle, fan is off and thermostat shows no "heat on" the heat coils show no amp draw.

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jumptrout

After the heat cycle, fan is off and thermostat shows no "heat on" the heat coils show no amp draw.

This a normal situation. Everything should be off when the thermostat temp is satisfied.

However,it has nothing to do with how you stated your original problem of the fan cycling off and the heat staying on.

I am going to take the opportunity to move on to other post and actually help someone.

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