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Marc Blais

kenmore Elite (POS), #665.16263401,dishwasher code 7

9 posts in this topic

So I need advise. I have this Kenmore dishwasher that keeps spitting out a code 7. Does Not happen every wash cycle. I have dismembered the dishwasher. The heater circuit has 13.1 ohms from the connectors at the control panel. The heater element has 13 ohms. This all seems good Right? I verified the thermistor resistance goes down with heat and up when cooling down. What gives?? What else can I look for all mighty warriors? The wife is getting sick of washing the dishes, she wants to go out to eat more to cure this!! Help

Thanks ,

Marc

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Dishwasher control board is looking for a rise in water temperature but ain't finding it. This can be caused by

1. no water into the dishwasher

2. bad heating circuit

or, what I most commonly find,

3. no water circulating over the heating element because the circulation motor is either jammed or FUBAR.

If you're getting water and the heating circuit checks out, then you need to replace the motor-pump assembly. Part link ==> Circulation Pump and Motor Assembly

And here's how to install it:

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Thank you very much. I did forget to add: Many times before we would find the dishwasher done but water is left at the bottom of the unit. Also the unit cleans like crap now. The upper glasses always have gritty gunk left in them, so I totally buy the water circulation problem. Thanks again

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Many times before we would find the dishwasher done but water is left at the bottom of the unit.

This could indicate a drainage problem (unrelated to the water circulation problem) which would involve the drain hose and drain pump. Start a cycle empty and listen closely with your ear at the door. You'll hear it filling with water and you'll hear with the circulation pump starts: you'll either hear the sound of water getting splashed around or you'll hear a low, ominous hum for a few seconds and then silence for a long time.

After you've listened, hit cancel and listen to the draining sounds. Look in the sink at the discharge stream, should be full bore, turbulent, and vigorous. When it's finished, open the door and see how much water is left. Describe here or post a photo.

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So as I drink my Magic Hat Black Night Lager I am testing the drainage as you said. The unit fills up ok (the water level just below the heating coil), the circulation pump starts ok and splashes water around. When hitting cancel/drain the water comes out of the discharge as at slow rate but empties the unit completely. I would not describe it as " turbulent or vigorous".

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When hitting cancel/drain the water comes out of the discharge as at slow rate but empties the unit completely. I would not describe it as " turbulent or vigorous".

You've described a drain restriction/impairment. Pull the drain hose off the pump (behind the toe panel) and blow thru it. If it's clear, then replace the drain pump ==> Drain Pump and Motor

Do the 8 oz. glass test: place upright in upper rack and start an empty cycle. Listen for the water flow to stop and spraying to start. Count 60 Mississippi's and open the door. Glass should be more than halfway full. Do tell.

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Well the next little test verified my thought not enough water. You know what that means circulation pump AND drain pump. The silverware rack is also broken. That puts the repair over the 40 percent cost mark. Damnit she gets a new dishwasher. Anything worth buying?I know thats a double sided question. I own a vehicle repair shop and experience many vehicles. EVERY make has problems but some more than others.

Thanks for all the help!!

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spent the money and buy the bosch.

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