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drcarl

Intermittent filling problem with Maytag MDB9100 AWB JETCLEAN DISHWASHER EQ - Plus!

51 posts in this topic

PS - kdog (or anyone). Please take a look at my bounty photo above - the junk I cleaned out (thanks to your awesome video help) - see the blue bead? It's about the size of a BB; perhaps a tad smaller.

Is there any part of the dishwasher that might be missing or wanting this blue bead?

:thanks:

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Nope

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kdog (and everyone else),

thank you for reflecting on my situation and for helping me rule-out the smaller, easier possibilities.

I contacted fixyourboard.com, yet they said they are not doing dishwasher boards at this time. So, I bought a refurb through CoreCentric Solutions on eBay....delivered and installed today.

The very BEST deal for a new, with a significant savings over my local brick-and-mortar store was was repairclinic.com. At a little over $200, I would have saved about $70 over buying locally. Nevertheless, this being the third board replacement, (one recall, one power surge, now this of unknown cause), and resources being what they are, I went for the refurb for $90.

=================Board is now installed, test run=====================

First fill has completed. I await the drain, then.........*long, extended, suspense-building drum roll*.......the second, and ever so tell-tale fill.

First drain - OK

Second fill completely failed. Power 95VAC at the water valve. I filled it manually

Results: :banghead:CRAP! CRAP! CRAP! :wc::banghead:(*sorry*) :burnin: (<--I'm really not losing it....yet)

Second drain: OK

Third fill (extra rinse selected), started OK, then halfway through the fill the power of 112 VAC at the valve dropped, as usual, to about 95 VAC and the filling stopped - incomplete fill. I filled it manually.

Third drain: OK

Next cycle: DRY - OK

==============================================

Next test - "Light Wash" - first fill: failed. Test aborted.

==============================================

Of course you can imagine that I want to get to the bottom of this.

QUESTIONS:

(1) What's my next step? :kopkrab::bart: 12 ga.? K-bar? :stab:

(2) How possible is it the "refurb" board I got has the exact same problem? :kopkrab:

(3) How could this condition be caused if we wanted to make this happen on purpose? :kopkrab::groucho:

Condition remains: erratic voltage drops to about 95VAC at the valve, causing incomplete fills which often follow a normal (112V) first fill.

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Check for bad wire or connection somewhere, be sure to include the power hookup to the dishwasher - sounds like a poor connection somewhere.

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OK, I'll wiggle everything I can reach.

Meanwhile, a friend of mine who knows appliances recommended:

My first guess would be you need a new fill valve.

If you have normal voltage with the valve not connected that's your problem.

If that's OK your control computer board is not working properly

This was similar to the first post/reply by kdog, but with a difference: kdog recommended testing the voltage at the while the valve is still connected and my friend said "with the valve not connected.

Does it make sense to test for voltage with the valve not connected? If so, how when when do I do that?

Here's my guess....(sorry if it's obvious, I am just literal and really don't want to mess anything up)....

Pull the wires off of the orange plastic of the valve.

Poke the multi-meter probes in there, one into the connector for each wire, for a reading?

When do I do this, at the start of the second fill? (since the first fill is usually normal?)

Or, perhaps, at any point where the voltage seems to drop to 95VAC?

Standing by; thanks

drcarl

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The latest (I know you're aching to know) - Even without instructions/permission, I let the dishwasher go through to the second fill and took a voltage reading...95VAC with wired attached, so I yanked the to wires going to the valve and jammed the probes into the leads to test for was being provided: 95VAC...so, now I'll go on a fishing expedition for "bad wires" and "poor connections"

Is it possible (I know, ANYthing is possible) that I have another bad board? That the replacement (refurb) I installed is bad? I guess it could happen.

At least I didn't die and my multimeter didn't blow up.

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Have you inspected the mains connection ? monitor voltage at power hookup as you could have an electrical supply issue as well

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kdog - thanks....just switched-out the refurb board for the old board...disconnected and re-connected everything I could reach. Stickiest connections were the leads to the two door switches. I gave the mains nuts a good reef and will now go back and test for VAC (am pretty sure there is some bare wire I can get at.

Thanks for your care...I'll report when done.

drcarl

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Snuggled the meter's probes up inside the wire nuts and tested AC supply; it's 120 (or 119) VAC and doesn't drop.

So, my problem remains. Incomplete fill; filling stops when current drops to 95 VAC at the valve.

So, I got a 2nd bad board?

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If what your saying is true, its the only possibility. Does the refurb have a return policy?

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Everything I have related is to the best of my ability. I have learned a lot here (tyvm) and could probably be more succinct were I able to rewind the clock. Also, as to accurate portrayal, I am VERY good in lab (physics, chemistry, etc) and am very literal. (That gets me into how water sometimes - lol)

Yes, they have a return policy. 14 days and I pay shipping - more than fair; it's been 6 so far. I'll likely have them send me a new $90 refurb.

Thank you for reviewing my case.

drcarl

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Hey drcarl. Did you get a good visual on the wires that bend between the door and tub? Sometimes you can miss a slightly burned wire.

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will check -god knows I can open her up and get there to check fast enough now

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Santa - thank you for the suggestion. I opened her up (including the little cover boxes) and got a good visual (LED light, 'reader' glasses and all) from the power source to the destination at the board. All the pretty wires, especially the black ones and the white ones, appear to be in great shape with no discoloration, fraying or, well, anything. The look almost brand new!

Thank you for the suggestion....making the call for the RMA.

Stay tuned! ~lol~

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(1) How much current is needed to open the valve?

A friend says that 95 VAC should be enough to power the magnets; (2) Is it?

He also mentions that I should connect a test cord directly to the valve to see if it opens.

(3) what's a test cord?

(4) should I test the valve with a test cord?

Methinks this valve testing is ground already covered; of course, please correct me if I am mistaken.

(I kind of plan to replace the valve if the problem persists after installing a second refurbed control board)

THANK YOU for sharing your expertise

~drcarl

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Cheater Cord

Good idea - enrgize is for several fill cycles, and drain the machine in between - if it's a bad valve it'll fail on ya like it does when operated - I have seen valves refuse to work below 105 volts

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kdog, thank you for essentially answering all of my questions! Sometimes I think I ask too many (that's partially why I number them; it's also to make specific answers more convenient)

I made a cheater/test cord out of an old computer power cord and attached it securely to the valve's power prongs. When I plugged her in the first time, she filled as expected. I drained her, and filled her this way a second time and got a complete fill. I performed the second drain, and then, when I plugged-in my cheater cord for a third fill, I got............nothing, zero, nada, zilch.

Looks like I'll be reaching for my Teflon tape once I order and receive a new valve.

I am still concerned that the power supplied to the valve is 112VAC for the first fill, then halfway through the second fill (and for subsequent fills) it drops to 95VAC. If, once I receive and install it, the second refurbished master control board acts this way with a voltage drop, (just like the first refurb I installed and the board I have now), I'll be sending it back for a refund.

Something tells me that if three boards are acting the same way, it's not the board, and that since the valve failed after the second fill when powered with 120 VAC directly, well, you guessed it spot-on in your first post, it's the valve!

Thank you for your input!

~drcarl

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We'll be interested to see how it turns out

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For the official record: it was the valve (though I am baffled how a valve can make the VAC drop)

Thank you for all your input!

~drcarl

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Wow! This problem could have been solved with the first post from kdog. Sometimes overthinking a problem causes total confusion. :unsure: Oh well, chalk it up to a learning experience. :thumbsup:

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Wow! This problem could have been solved with the first post from kdog. Sometimes overthinking a problem causes total confusion.

Wisdom! Let us attend!

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Thanks for updating the post - I'm certain it will help others in the future. Ironically, I have seen several occasions where the voltage supplied by the control was below 100 volts and just would not open the valve. We can take from this that the simple way to determine this outcome would have been to simply hook a known good valve to the valve terminals (vlave loose,in-hand, no water hookup) and make the voltage measurement a second time with the sample connected. If the voltage was then good - go ahead and commence with it's installation.

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For the official record: it was the valve

(though I am baffled how a valve can make the VAC drop)

a Valve with a few (or more) shorted windings can draw more current than the Controller can handle,

and would strain the Driver Transistor on the Controller, to a point where the voltage would be reduced.

If enough windings were shorted, it could blow the Controller.

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I have been guilty of over thinking. Oh, well.

I still wonder how a valve can screw-up the VAC.

THANKS to all

~drcarl

RegUS_PatOff - just saw your post. *bows* THANK you for a real answer.

And, again, thanks to all else who helped

~drcarl

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