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LG washing machine WM2688HNM and the dreaded LE error code

5 posts in this topic

Please help! My LG washing machine WM2688HNM is giving me an LE error code.

The machine will run up to the point where it tries to spin the load of laundry. When it tries to speed up the RPM of the tub, it makes an awful grating/scraping/ticking noise that picks up speed as the tub RPM's speed up. You can see a video at http://smg.photobuck...0202_213405.mp4. Although the tub turns both clockwise and counterclockwise at slower speeds, it won't ever turn at a high rate of speed. Instead it stops mid-cycle and gives the LE error code. It also seems to jiggle, where it previously would move more smoothly. (This is all true whether you tell the washer to spin only, rinse and spin, or run an actual load of laundry.)

The washer drains fine, fills fine, and otherwise appears to operate normally. When I reach in and turn the tub with my hand, it rotates normally (easily) and does not make the grating noise.

I have replaced the hall sensor and the stator and the symptoms are exactly the same despite the new parts. I have visually inspected the wiring harness from the main board down to the stator and hall sensor, and although it does have a little bit of wear on it, the wires are still very much intact. There are no grease/rust spots on the bearings that are visible when the rotor is removed. The rotor is rust-free and has minimal wear.

I have followed the testing instructions found on this website to test the voltage from the main board to the hall sensor (the "how to test the hall sensor" page). Everything the page mentioned I tested, and all multimeter readings indicated everything was functioning properly. Is there a different way to test the main board? This is one part I haven't replaced yet. I hate to keep throwing parts at the machine (my wallet wants me to figure out what's wrong with it before I randomly replace anything else).

The machine is about five years plus a few months old (a few months outside warranty, of course). Until now, it has worked perfectly every time. We are sticklers for using the proper amount of detergent and definitely have used very small amounts, far below the quantity recommended by the detergent companies, so I don't think this is a case of over-sudsing. Throughout its life, the washer has been used the "normal" amount a 2-person family might use (not nearly as frequently as, say, a family of four would use a machine). That said, we have recently changed our laundry habits slightly, as we have been cloth diapering our son, born 3 months ago. So it has had 3 months worth of cloth diapers washed in it. Still, we've been using our normal low amount of detergent, and a load of diapers isn't much different in weight than washing a few pairs of blue jeans, so I'm not sure washing the diapers frequently would have necessarily caused our problem. Thoughts?

I really appreciate your help...my son's cloth diapers and the rest of our piles of laundry are getting out of control. I have to figure out how to fix this machine asap!

Melissa

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

<<<I have replaced the hall sensor>>>

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Verify that the HALL SENSOR has been correctly snapped onto the STATOR (all three tabs securely locked).

With the ROTOR removed---inspect that all of the *magnets* are in good condition---no cracks or loose magnets that are out-of-position

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<<<I have visually inspected the wiring harness from the main board down to the stator and hall sensor, and although it does have a little bit of wear on it, the wires are still very much intact.>>>

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Remove the section of wire harness that runs from the HALL SENSOR to a plug connection at the rear of the washer.

This section of wire harness is short. In some cases---the wires appear to be "good" but internally the strands of wire are broken.

Use a test meter to verify *continuity* of each wire within the harness---have a helper move/bend the wire harness to identify whether or not the wires are intermittently losing connection internally.

If there's a fault---it's usually a broken wire where the harness has been attached to the base of the washer and held in place with a wire tie.

Either replace the wire harness or attempt to repair it where the break occurred by splicing it together.

Where were the new parts purchased?

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Thank you for replying so quickly!

I've double-checked the hall sensor and the stator. The hall sensor is snapped in properly, and the stator appears to be in good working order - the magnets all appear to be in good condition. I haven't had a chance to check the wire continuity, and have to leave to go to work now, so I will check it later tonight and report back!

I bought the parts from Repairclinic:

 

Hall Sensor:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Rotor-Position-Sensor/6501KW2002A/1268238?modelNumber=WM2688HNM

 

Stator: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Stator-Assembly/4417FA1994G/1266809?modelNumber=WM2688HNM

 

 

 


Thanks again for your help! Much appreciated!

Melissa

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I tested the continuity of the short section of the wiring harness as you described, and lo and behold, there was a bad wire. So I spliced a new wire in its place...

...and...

...it is fixed!!!

I really appreciate your help with the repair!!! You have saved me so much money, I'm super grateful.

Incidentally, the washer sounds better than it ever has. It previously made a high-frequency metallic noise - it has ever since day one of ownership. I always just assumed the noise was normal, since the washer otherwise worked fine, and it has always sounded like that. But now the noise is gone and the washer operates quieter than ever. Shame on LG for making/using parts that are bad from the start. I hope they have resolved that problem with their newer washers.

Thanks again for the help!!!

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<<<Shame on LG for making/using parts that are bad from the start. I hope they have resolved that problem with their newer washers.>>>

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No defect in the wiring caused this...

The most logical answer---is that the wire loom was secured to the base of washer (by an assembly-line worker) too taut/tight.

When the tub gyrates during the spin cycle---instead of the normal give-and-take that *should* occur---the wires are being pulled many times until one of them is damaged.

Good job identifying & repairing the problem :)

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