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      [Webinar] Electric Circuit Troubleshooting and EEPs   12/05/2016

      I have a special topic for tonight's Office Hours webinar on electric circuit troubleshooting and EEPs. If you've taken the Fundamentals course or watched any of my Youtube videos, you know that EEPs are a topic near and dear to my heart. EEPs = Electrically Equivalent Points. Identifying EEPs on a schematic is a key skill for any appliance tech today.  Another special feature about this Office Hours: in addition to the usual Academy students and Professional Appliantologist members, Senior Appliantology Fellows and Legacy Techs at Appliantology are also welcome to join us for this Office Hours. Just click into the topic below to RSVP and to get the connection info.   

Maytag, (sorry, no model#), have general question

5 posts in this topic

Sorry for not having the model number, but I have a very general question. I had an electric variable speed Maytag furnace installed about two years ago to replace my old one. During the heating season, the coils began icing up (really bad last summer). After much research, the installer believes they can solve the problem by installing a new damper. I'm fine with this, but my question is this:

During all the icing up of the coils, the metal areas around the coils began to get very rusty. My installer says this is no problem and that they all eventually get rusty. Is this a real issue? Should I ask that they replace the coil since it was there mistake in not putting in the correct damping system in the first place?

Thanks, BDWeller

P.S. if it's absolutely necessary, I can enter in the model# when I get home tonight. I'm at work and I don't have access right now.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

In addition to the model number we need more information.

The model number will allow us ti visualize the unit and how YOUR unit is designef to operate.

You will most likely be asked more questions about the system and installation.

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If your coil is freezing it's either low on freon, an airflow issue or you're running the system at an unusually cold temperature. I'm sure they've check the freon and if you've kept the thermostat an a reasonable temperature it must be the airflow. The first thing to check is to make sure the "Y" cooling wire from the thermostat is connected to the yellow wire or "Y" terminal in the air handler. Most varible speed air handlers will not run to full speed if you're not connected to the "Y" terminal on the blower control board. It's fairly easy to determine if you have the correctly sized ductwork to handle the CFM of your blower. Having said that, your variable speed blower motor will speed up some to try to overcompensate for such an issue. I would usually expect your variable speed air handler less likely to frost from low airflow. Make sure you have a large enough intake and that you're not using a restrictive air filter. Multiply the height and width of your filter and then double that number. That's how many CFM's that size filter is properly sized for. Your system CFM's are 400 CFM per ton. So that 20" X 20" that we've always used for a 3 ton system is only a good match for a 2 ton system.

As to the steel end plates on the coil rusting....this is absolutely normal and occurs on all coils after a few months of operation.

Edited by Shootist

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During the heating season, the coils began icing up .

Condensing unit should NOT be running when furnace is in Heating Mode

I can enter in the model# when I get home tonight.

Dang - you musta took the REALLY REALLY long way home

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I thought the same thing when I first read the question but then saw where right after he said "heating season" he then said "(really bad last summer)". I think he meant to say "cooling season".

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