Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn how to troubleshoot like a Master Samurai Tech...

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
rican

Whirlpool RBD306PDQ7 Electric Double Oven lower door locked

23 posts in this topic

I ran a clean cycle on the lower oven and and an error came up on the console. I cleared it and don't remember it, but from reading here I am pretty sure a thermostat that controls the door lock went bad. The lower door remains locked and when I try to do anything it say HOT and won't go any farther. I cannot even use the top oven. Everything I read says take the back panel off and find bad part. Problem its that the screws to remove the side trim to begin the units removal are blocked by the lower door which I cannot open. Any other way to unlock the door from the front? Which part is likely the problem?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Do both Oven Control panels / Clocks "light up" ?

Can you try using the Lower Oven again to see if the Error Code will appear ?

Does the upper Oven still Work ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gonna have to go fishing with a wire coat hanger...see which way to pull by looking at the other latch...

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...see which way to pull by looking at the other latch...

from the service manual 8178007 KR-30, it looks like "pull to the left"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anytime you press any button on the panel, it replies HOT. Can't do anything. Tried to use the upper oven but same response. Any idea on what went wrong. I will try the hanger.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You will have to use the bent coat hanger suggested by Kurtiusinterupptus.

Take a wire coat hanger,straighten it out.

Cut one end off.

Bend a 1" hook in the end.

Insert the hook in the center off the door at the latch location.

Slide the hook over the latch.

Pull the coat hanger to the LEFT.

It will take some force.

The latch will come open.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Coat hanger works great....it's actually suggested in many technical stove manuals. I always get a kick out of it...." to open a locked door..access the internal magneto and connect the 2nd module from the left with the 3rd in the sequence and apply the co-efficient equal to the thermal reading upon entering hyper-oven test mode on the pcb.. then the door should open...

if that doesn't work, 1) get a coat hanger and 2) pull on the latch."

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1) ... I ran a clean cycle on the lower oven

2) ... error came up on the console. I cleared it and don't remember it,

3) ... but from reading here I am pretty sure a thermostat that controls the door lock

4) ...The lower door remains locked and when I try to do anything it say HOT and won't go any farther.

5) ... Everything I read says take the back panel off and find bad part.

6) ... Which part is likely the problem?

1) :nono:

2) maybe error F3 E1 open Temperature Sensor

3) if one Thermal Fuse was bad, the Oven Control wouldn't "light-up" ... If the other Thermal Fuse was bad, it would only affect Bake & Broil

4) not caused by either Thermal Fuse

5) not for your symptoms

6) depending on the error code numbers, may be bad Oven Sensor

OR becuase of Self-clean high temperatures, may now have a bad Oven Controller.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Coat hanger works great....

I just knew there was some purpose for these otherwise useless wire coat hangers !!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just knew there was some purpose for these otherwise useless wire coat hangers !!

Joan Crawford in Mommy Dearest

"NO WIRE HANGERS, EVER !"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What part to you exactly mean by sensor.

4451665 or 4451442

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Joan Crawford in Mommy Dearest

"NO WIRE HANGERS, EVER !"

Okay Already! Lay off the coffee, mom! I actually use this :

KGrHqJHJBYE7zGsYBP4oCEzqw60_57.jpg

Edited by DurhamAppliance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK,

1, Tested the sensor and it read 1089 Ohms.

2. test the thermostat and it reads OL on the multimeter

3. Directly Connected the two leads on the thermostat to bypass the thermostat and powered the unit on and now getting an error message F5E7.

4 locked light still on and HOT still shows up when trying to turn anything on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

F5E7

Self-clean latch will not unlock

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... I ran a clean cycle on the lower oven and and an error came up on the console.

:nono:

You may now have a bad Oven Controller.

Some electrical tests would need to be done.

“My Rules”:

Rule #1) Don't ever use Self-Clean on any Oven.

Rule #2) If you're thinking about using Self-Clean, see rule #1.

Self-Clean uses nearly 1000F for 3 hours or more. burnin.gif

That can wreak havoc on Electronic Controllers and Connections.

whirlpoolrbd306electric.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

any references on how to disassemble unit? Especially if I must replace the latch assembly. It looks now that I have to remove the top oven to get to it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You may now have a bad Oven Controller.

Some electrical tests would need to be done.

It may not be a bad Latch Assembly

If you can access the Oven Controller, you can test

(and possibly actuate) the Lower Oven Latch Assembly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can follow directions, but I am unsure how I would test that board. I can read the electrical diagram you sent and see the area where the door accuators are controlled, but I would not know how to test.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, stuck a screw driver in the latch and pushed the solenoid pin back the blocked the latch. It stayed back and the latch works fully and does not latch the door. I turned the power back on to the unit and the top oven works now. The lower does not heat up. I did find that the lower oven thermostat was test OL on the multimeter could this be the cause?

I know that I have not tested the controller board yet, but does this inidicate that the solenoid might be bad as it did not open in the lock postition when the power was restored?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... The lower does not heat up. I did find that the lower oven thermostat was test OL on the multimeter could this be the cause?

yes

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The lower does not heat up. I did find that the lower oven thermostat was test OL on the multimeter could this be the cause?

Sounds like you done found the problem! ==> http://www.repaircli...r-Breaker-Parts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites