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zold

Frigidaire LTF2140ES0 Won't Drain, Pump Out

25 posts in this topic

After a bit of reading on this site, (thanks so far!), I was able to take my evil Frigidaire LTF2140ES0 apart and get the pump out. The only issue I found was some quarters in the rubber sump in front of the pump, (so I'm ahead 75 cents for now), but couldn't find a filter to clean or any other obstructions in the draining system. Could these tarnished quarters be the culprit or should I double check somewhere else in the system? Also, I can stick my finger into the pump and spin the impeller all the way around, but there is a point where I have to push harder to get it to turn. It isn't rough or grindy, but more like I'm pushing against a magnet. Is this normal? Thanks!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Tube-134885800-00662569.jpg

There is a plastic filter between the tub and the pump inside the rubber hose, unless it's been removed. Does the pump run? Does the machine make any noise when it's supposed to be draining?

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I stuck my fingers up in the rubber boot, into the tub and didn't find any filters in my model. I can hear the pump running and if I put my hand on it, can feel it as well. Also, according the the Mrs. the drain/spin option isn't working either.

Edited by zold

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I'll order a new drain pump then. Thanks for the help!

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Well, here is where we're at: I ordered and installed the replacement pump and it didn't fix the issue. I pulled the drain hoses off the unit, from the pump to the wall, and cleaned them out. Didn't find anything exciting inside, just some pondscum. I've stuck my fingers up in the boot between the motor all the way into the wash tub and can't find any kind of obstruction. When my wife pours water into the drum, it comes right out of the bottom pump outlet. I also ran the "onboard diagnostics" where the washer walks through all of the phases of the clothes washing process and everything seems to work and make the appropriate noises. But, when I run a load of clothes, they are still soaking wet when the machine is done.

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Use your trusty volt meter on the pump wires. Set the unit to spin and see if you get voltage on the pump wires.

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The pump is getting the right amount of juice during the spin cycle, per the volt meter.

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Empty the washer.

Remove the drain pump.

Leave power wires attached.

Set the unit to spin.

Observe the pump impeller.

If it is rotating you have a blockage.

If you have power to the pump and it is not rotating,you have a bad pump.

I re-read your other post.

Is the machine spinning?

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I pulled up a chair and set the washer for rinse/spin. The rinse part seemed to go just fine, then the pump kicked in and I could hear water gurgling out of the hose that comes out of the back of the unit. Finally, it starts to slowly "fluff" the clothes spinning a few times one way, pausing, then a few times the other way. But, it never really seems to get up to speed and really ring the water out. It seems to be stopping too early.

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Sounds like a faulty door lock. Set the washer to spin again. Start the cycle. Wait 1 minute. Unplug the washer and try to open the door. It should NOT open right away.

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I ran the drain/spin cycle and waited until the unit started spinning, then unplugged it. I was able to open the door. Is there a way to bypass the door lock and try the cycle that way to verify that part is indeed the problem?

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Not that I know of. Replace the door latch. You can verify voltage to the latch.

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From tracing the wires, best I can figure, the door latch is tied to the controller board in the bottom, back corner of the washer. Rather than just order and swap parts and then send them back if things don't work out, with the associated time and expense, is there a way to see which end of the connection is having the problem? Could the problem be the controller board in the bottom, back corner of the unit?

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Put the washer in the spin cycle and test for 120 volts at the door latch connection. if you get 120 volts then the latch is bad.

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According to my best guess at the wiring diagram, there are four different things that are hooked into the door latch assembly. I turned the control knob to the rinse/spin setting, pressed the Start button, matched up the wire colors and tested the appropriate pairs with the following results:

Door Switch - Black to Red/Blk - 121.4v

Door Lock - Grey to Red/Blk - 124.2v

Door Lock Aux Switch - Orange to Red/Blk - 121.6v

Wax Motor (???) - Pink to Red/Blk - 121.5v

I assume that this confirms the faulty door latch assembly prognosis?

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any Error Codes (flashing lights) while in the Spin Cycle ?

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Before, according to your second post, the pump was apparently running but not draining...

I stuck my fingers up in the rubber boot, into the tub and didn't find any filters in my model. I can hear the pump running and if I put my hand on it, can feel it as well. Also, according the the Mrs. the drain/spin option isn't working either.

So, you needed the pump.

Now, with the new pump in, a follow-on problem is revealed. It's not common; yes it sucks, but it does happen.

At this point, now that we have the drain out working properly, and the no-high-speed-spin problem revealed, the problem will either be the door lock or the motor control board. You have been given good diagnostic info for the door latch.

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I agree with the door latch. Sometimes the wax motor will still work enough to latch it without moving it enough to trip the indicator that it latches.

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I just ran the drain/spin cycle. When I hit the start button, the door makes a clicking noise and locks. Then, the drain part of the cycle seems to go just fine. The spin cycle starts up with timed back and forth rotations of the drum, but then the washer makes a one click noise which unlocks the door and just shuts off. At this point, there are no lights or beeps or anything.

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Before, according to your second post, the pump was apparently running but not draining...

So, you needed the pump.

Now, with the new pump in, a follow-on problem is revealed. It's not common; yes it sucks, but it does happen.

At this point, now that we have the drain out working properly, and the no-high-speed-spin problem revealed, the problem will either be the door lock or the motor control board. You have been given good diagnostic info for the door latch.

I absolutely agree that we're one step closer. Before, when I opened the door on a load of towels, I could see a little water in the tub. Now, at least we're past that point (thank you! :thumbsup: ). I just want to make sure I order to right part the first time for this next problem, if that is possible. I'm on a teacher's budget, so paying shipping back and forth, etc really starts to add up quickly and Mamma-San starts to give me the evil hex-eye and quite possibly, spit in my bowl of rice or, at very least, lick my chopsticks.

Here are the results of my door latch test, per SANTA's suggestion :

Door Switch - Black to Red/Blk - 121.4v

Door Lock - Grey to Red/Blk - 124.2v

Door Lock Aux Switch - Orange to Red/Blk - 121.6v

Wax Motor - Pink to Red/Blk - 121.5v

The thing is that I don't know how the motor control board system works, so I'm unsure if there is something else going on that I should look into or not. If the 120v to all four parts of the latch assembly at the start of the rinse/spin cycle is a definitive test, then I'll order a new latch assembly. If further troubleshooting is needed, I'll happily give it a go. :) Thanks!

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any Error Codes (flashing lights) while in the Spin Cycle ?

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Okey dokey.

. Calling up error codes would be useful. But as you'll see in a post of mine below, that can get you the wrong information anyway.

. Here is a post where it told me it was the control board, but it was the door switch:

http://appliantology...gidaire-washer/

. Here is the inside $70 switch part no. 131763202:

Door-Switch-131763202-01235823.jpg

but you may not NEED that, though it is broken.

. Here is the one I fixed in the link above for $12 bucks:

[see image in next post]

That little white thing that the screwdriver points to is the wax motor which you can replace if everything else works OK in the switch. That is what moves it over to lock.

See here is the piece that tells it "I'm locked, go ahead and spin, because nobody can get his/her arm in here now."

[see image in next post]

The white wax motor pushes the black thingy, where the screwdriver is pointing, into the lock mechanism, it may push it far enough to lock it, but when it does, it also needs to push the two copper contacts together just to the left of the screwdriver so the compuker knows its locked. It won't, by the way, do any of this, unless it knows the door is closed, which is another set of contacts in there, though I don't know which ones, as I don't have one of these in front of me right now. Anyway, it is so beautifully and simply mechanical in there, you can figure that out pretty easily.

. So should you see everything in there is happy, which I'm sure it is, you need this:

Wax-Motor-Actuator-12002535--00662417.jpg

Part # 12002535 $12.

The housing on the door lock opens VERY easily. It's easy to put this in, and easy to test the door lock itself.

. One problem left: as for Mamma-San, tell her you are getting a real education, through real experience! You are sharpening your analytical and problem-solving skills. You are increasing your virility by doing man-stuff. You'll feel very satisfied by accomplishing this, and she will too from your increased virility. Shipping costs?! I don't know where you live, but a repairman might charge you $90, just to walk through the door, and tell you "Looks like you need a new one" which often really means, "I can't figure it out." If does fix it, more bucks for the labor time, plus he'll probably double the price of the entire switch assembly that you don't need. So $140 for the switch, $150 for labor. Oh and did you need the pump? Another $150 or more? Well over $400, anyway, and you wouldn't get to have all this fun.

Edited by Tim M

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Here are the two missing images referenced in my above post.

post-19249-0-40309600-1335744065_thumb.j

post-19249-0-88991200-1335744081_thumb.j

Edited by Tim M

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