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hotrod53

KitchenAid ice maker quit, looking for troubleshooting help

8 posts in this topic

I've been around the block a few times with ice makers, here is what I know so far.

This is a couple of year old KitchenAid KBLS22ETSS00, the ice maker flat out quit making ice all of a sudden, yes the arm is down.

I removed and disassembled the ice maker and applied power directly to the motor, it runs and has enough torque that I couldn't stop it.

I applied power directly to the ice maker black and white wires where it plugs into the frig, the ice maker motor turns.

I measured the black and white wire at the frig connector, I get 2.4VAC, not the expected 120VAC

Water is available, the water dispenser works normally.

The fingers are not jammed, I can spin them when I had it apart.

Whatever the issue is, it is causing no 120VAC power to be available to the ice maker.

Any advice would be appreciated.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

need to pull and test the light switch for the frezzer...this is interlocked with the icemaker power...

light may be functional but switch still be bad....

check out the like-minded response below...

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus

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you may just be jumping the gun. I dont have a schematic for this unit,

but the door switch usually has to be triggered to have power to the IM

plug . trigger the door switch and check for power at the plug...if so, then

jump the T and H ports on the module. Does it start a harvest cycle now?

Was the mold filled with frozen water initally?

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Mold had some signs of ice but no very little and no cubes, it was nowhere near full. Never heard of the light switch providing power, wish I had a schematic. I know that the light works, but liek previously said, probably a different contact.

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Water is available, the water dispenser works normally.

Although built together, water dispenser and Ice Maker valves work independent of each other. One side could fail while other is working normally. Also the ice maker itself must call for the water, so even if water is available that doesn't mean the ice maker is calling for it. Jump ports L and V to energize valve. Also using the test ports on the module will help you far more than disassembling the ice maker.

modfront.jpg

All resistance checks must be done with power disconnected from the icemaker or whole appliance!

  • Testing for voltage between test points L and N should measure 120 volts if the icemaker is receiving power. Note: On some models power is disconnected from the icemaker whenever the door is opened.
  • Testing for resistance between test points L and H will check the icemaker's mold heater (~72 ohms).
  • Testing for resistance between L and M will check the motor resistance (~4400 - 8800 ohms).
  • Testing for resistance between V and N will check the resistance of the external water valve solenoid coil (~300 ohms).
  • Testing for resistance between T and H should show continuity (zero resistance) if the icemaker's internal bimetal thermostat is closed. It will read infinite resistance if open. Testing for voltage should show 0 volts if the icemaker's internal thermostat is closed, 120 volts if the thermostat is open... and the icemaker is getting power. Note: The internal icemaker thermostat will only be closed if the icemaker is and has been below 15°F for some time.

A 14 gauge insulated (except for 1/2" on each end) preferably solid-wire can be used as a jumper to initiate functions of the icemaker unit.

Testing on a 'live' appliance can be dangerous! Anyone unfamiliar with proper safety precautions should not attempt it.

  • Jumping between T and H will simulate the closing of the internal thermostat. It will initiate a harvest cycle, powering the icemaker motor and the mold heater. Remove the jumper after 3 seconds and icemaker should continue to run. Note: If the jumper is not removed before the ice ejector blades reach the 10:00 o'clock position, the water valve will not be energized and the icemaker will not fill.
  • Jumping between M and N should power the icemaker motor.
  • Jumping between L and V should energize the water valve.
  • Jumping between H and N should energize the ice mold heater.

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You guys are AWSOME! I plugged in the ice maker and pushed the light switch and it started to turn.

When I originally disassembled, there was a deformed cube laying in the mold, I'll bet that it was jammed and I already fixed it not knowing the switch provided power.

I reasembled without the front gear cover and I can see the gear turning and I heard the water valve open. I'm going to wait and see what happens, I'll update when I have more info.

THANKS for info provided so far!

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, there was a deformed cube laying in the mold,

ah ha my dear grasshopper. Vital info you failed to provide us! In any event, I think you fixed it. So if you got a decent bucket of ice by tomorrow afternoon, pat yourself on the back and shout out for all to hear " Who's yo daddy, huh?"

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We are makin' ice again! THANKS EVERYONE for your help, I look forward to returning the favor!

Sho'Nuff Chosen ... while I may not have exactly snatched the stone from your hand, I walk away with enough knowlege to move forward with a smile and a bucket full of ice! Many thanks to all!

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