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DeathStalker

Are part prices out of control?

15 posts in this topic

I am taking care of some rental property and the renters called me to say that the dryer wouldn't work. They push the off/on button and when they release it the dryer stops.

Being semi sober at the time I decided the first thing I would check is the on/off switch. I take the little plate off, unscrew the two screws holding the on/off button in place hold hold it up for examination. Lo and behold through the clear plastic housing I can see the simple roker arm type switch and the fact that at one end there is a big black spot of charred and melted platic. I conclude that in fact the switch IS bad.

I'm looking at this part. there is approximately .02 cents (not dollars) of metal in the simple switch and maybe the same in plastic. Manufacturing the switch couldn't be a quarter, but let's say a buck. I expect to pay MAYBE 5 bucks for this thing. I go to Sears, (Fox Appliance being closed) and they want 53.00.

That can't be right says I. I'll wait for the morrow and go to Fox. meanwhile I will check online...........

http://www.repaircli...mber=LE8650XWW0

Just damn. Can't see through it. Three male ends to connect stuff to not two like the old one 14 assorted and asundry brackets so that it can fit multiple appliances and for all I know the space shuttle.

What a rip off. Behind all that black plastic is the SAME .02 cents worth of metal and since it's now made in Mexico manufacturing it, even WITH all the extra parts can't be more than 20 cents.

What a rip off.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Dryer model number ?

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LOl Regus, I left it in the truck and don't feel like going and getting it. It's a whirlpool LE8650xwwd if my memory serves me right. If it's not that number it's really damn close. Not bad for someone who wasn't trying to memorise anything.

Either way, it just seems wrong. No it IS wrong. I know about that which I speak. There isn't 1 buck in manufacturing that piece. I know everyone needs to have spome profit to survive but THAT much lol? Don't you wish YOU could make that much profit off a job? They would be calling you Mr. Apple (who make 1 BILLION a MONTH by offshoring their jobs), and you could ship eveything you do off to China and make them rich as well while pissing on your fellow Americans heads lol.

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I'm thinking it's not a bad Start Switch . . .

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Ouch. Really? Why would the start switch be burnt up? What else should I check?

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What else should I check?

Dryer model number ?

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If Deathstalker used the actual model number on the RepairClinic parts look-up the model# should be LE8650XWW0

I agree with RegUs on this. It's just a basic switch and if you push it and the dryer starts it is OK. I pretty sure the black look on the end of the switch contact arm is just from the arch each time it is pressed, (they will all look that way after years of use).

There are not any electronics in this dryer and it is real basic, the push-to-starts switch doesn't have a relay and there are not motor or heater relays so the problem has to be broken wire somewhere, bad motor centrifugal switch or bad motor windings.

A posting of the wiring diagram would be a great help in leading you to the most likely source of the problem.

I can say with a very high degree of certainty that the push-to-start switch isn't your problem, if it were the dryer wouldn't start and run when you push and hold it in.

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Sorry Regus, I nailed it when I guessed LE8650XWWD. I ran upstairs and checked before I hit post, guess I should havwe made that clear. :D It's a Whirlpool.

Oh, and you and Budget were correct, it wasn't the switch. New switchy, still no worky. Should i start a new help topic?

EDIT: I have to hang a new front door at my buddies house but after that, I'm going to the renters house to check on the dryer. I thought I would check the thermal fuse, then follow the steps from here:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2011/06/11/mailbag-why-does-my-dryer-shut-off-after-running-only-a-few-minutes/

If there is anything else I should check, please let me know. I'll come back home and look before i go to the dryer house............

Edited by DeathStalker

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... LE8650XWWD

maybe

LE8650XWW0 ?

bad (or full of lint) Start Switch on Motor

(not available separately)

click on picture

Drive-Motor-279827-01191725.jpg

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Well I guess I copied it down incorrectly. No wonder I had such a hard time finding the switch at first lol. Damn old eyes are going bad.

Thanks. I'll let you know how it turns out.

EDIT: Since I'm replacing the motor, wouldit make sense to replace the belt too? Is that "wise" preventative maintainence or unnecessary over-kill?

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.. would it make sense to replace the belt too?

depends on the condition..

but it's only $10

click on picture

Drive-Belt-341241-00634770.jpg

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Cool thanks. Those are from the site that helps support this one right? How long for delivery? The moter is 50 bucks cheaper than at fox brothers and the belt 7. That's some serious cash to me lol.

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yes, normally ships-out same day..

delivery depends how far away you are and which delivery method you select..

faster costs more

also, any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned for a refund (less shipping)

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Thanks. Ordered. Glad to get it from a site that advertises here and helps this community AND saves me some cash. Sweet deal.

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Forgot to follow up: Put the new motor in and everthing worked fine. been a week and no complaints so I reckon all it good. The Dryer FAQ's were invaluable (http://appliantology.org/forum-5/announcement-2-dryer-repair-faqs/) as was the linked video on how to disassemble and reassemble the dryer (and of course the advise from Reg and BAR). The only thing that wasn't "spelled out" for me was the connection of the motor shaft to the fan blade on the back. I gave it one good "try" and got no where before I checked the new one and saw it was reverse threaded. After that it was all a breeze.

Thanks.

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