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W.O.T.

!@#$%^%$#@! Viking Refrigerator

7 posts in this topic

Unit is a DFBB362R. Has had the usual Viking built-in fridge issues. Door hinges replaced twice under CPSC mandated recall. Skating rink on the bottom of the Freezer until I retrofitted it with a heated drain kit from a GE as the geniuses from Greenwood don't even have one in the parts book. Fridge lights stuck on after the door switch was damaged by the flatbill cap wearing hillbilly methhead that came out to do the second hinge replacement. Now a new problem. The unit runs and cools but only right after it is reset. As soon as it reaches operating temperatures the compressor shuts down and will not restart unless the breaker is flipped, cycling the power switch does not do it. If the MAX REF and MAX FRZ buttons are pushed after a reset it will run and cool like crazy, freezer will get down to -5F the frig will start freezing the lettuce until it times out after four hours. Then it will just sit there until either a high temp alarm comes on, usually the freezer alarm trips first (it is at 28F) or I flip the breaker and reset it again. Seems like this has to be a control or sensor issue but I don't know how to best narrow it down. The main control board is about $350, thermistors are $160, etc, etc. So I don't want to do too much wrong guessing.

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Condenser fan motor working? Have you tested the compressor to see if it is receiving power when the fridge warms up?

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After cycling the breaker voltage to the compressor is high and steady, I would call this within design parameters. After the compartments cool to the set temps or when the max feature times out there is no voltage on the compressor lines, again I would call this within design parameters. As the compartments warm up and the compressor should restart there is still no voltage on the compressor lines, this is where the issue is. The voltage to the compressor only comes back if the breaker is cycled. Viking is a top mount compressor/condenser setup that takes air in on the left at the top and exhausts on the right. I just cleaned the condenser coils a couple months ago. The condenser fan is running whenever the compressor is running. I am quite confident the compressor and sealed system are moving heat properly, when they are triggered to run. The evaporator coil in the freezer gets about 3/4 frosted over, Exhaust air flow is strong, exhaust air temp stays nice and even about 100F. Both compartments cool rapidly and evenly to 0F and 35F. I am thinking this has to be sensor/control type malfunction. The input panel appears seems to be working fine and responding to all button presses. The sensors that trigger from high temp in the compartments are both still working correctly. I don't know for certain if those same sensors are used by the control system to know when to stop and start the compressor, or if there are two sets of sensors, one set for compressor actuation and one set for alarms. Anybody know where to get a service manual and schematics?

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Well...our "friends" in Greenwood are notoriously tight fisted with their tech info.

is there a manila envelope in the compressor area? I suspect no, since you are requesting schematics.

I have some knowledge of theses units...I am certain there are only one set of sensors, 1 in the fridge, 1 in the freezer. Unit flashes an alternating signal on the display and beeps 5 quick times if either sensor is open, shorted or out of range so, these are presumed ok.

only other components in play are the low voltage and high voltage board.

not sure which board interprets the sensor info but if you trace the wires and find which board the sensors connect to, that seems the most logical place to start.

hope this helps...you seem fairly capable and I am sorry I can't be of more help...

PS...I also detest Viking products...I have been mistaken for a hillbilly before, however, I own no flatbill hats nor use meth LOL!

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus

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My wife reminded me the neighbors have the same fridge so I went down to their house and explained the situation. They were nice enough to let me take their air inlet grill off and borrow their "service notebook". After reading through the tests and control system descriptions I began to suspect the adaptive defrost system. I switched the unit in to vacation mode where the defrost system is completely bypassed and it runs perfect. In adaptive defrost mode the defrost heater(s) run every time the compressor shuts off until 48 degrees F is reached then the compressor and condenser fan inhibit drops out so they can start again. The notebook is real sketchy about how and where this 48 degrees F is sensed. If it does not reach temperature within 29 minutes the defrost is supposed to time out so the compressor/condenser fan inhibit can drop out. The defrost heater on the evaporator is definitely heating. My no contact thermometer says it is reaching around 45 degrees then shutting off. I assume the same sensor that tells the heater(s) to shut off is telling the control system to start the compressor and condenser fan but for some reason they are not. I am gojng to experiemnt with standard defrost mode as well and see what happenes with that. For now the beer is cold but we ain't defrosting.

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W.O.T, were you able to fix the defrosting/frost build up issue in your refrigerator? If so, would you be kind enough to share what you did to fix it? I have a Viking Refrigerator, although a different model (DFSB423), that behaves similarly and haven't been able to find the source of the problem. I haven't tried to change the defrost mode in the control panel yet. 

 

Thanks.

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