Isn’t it time to know what you don’t know?

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
richseattle56

D7824706Q Icemaker how to install

23 posts in this topic

I got this icemaker assy. but I dont see where the wire harness goes. Any help?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

does the Fridge have a model number ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

JFC2089HES It is a Jenn-Air

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you referring to the wiring harness as it connects to the ice maker module head or to the freezer wiring?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did get the icemaker installed customer just called said no ice. The old ice maker had a reading of 73 ohms betweem L & M, from the tech sheet I should get 4400 to 8800 Ohms. I suggested the customer defrost the freezer as the icemaker has been out for about 3 months, when I replaced the icemaker I did not notice the fill tube iced up. And on the original call I got approximatly 300 ohms between V & N. Which the external fill valve is checked between V & N, and that checks out. Any suggestions. No water entering icemaker.

Edited by richseattle56

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... reading of 73 ohms betweem L & M,

yes, if the ON/OFF Switch is OFF

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the on /off switch is on 74 ohms

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OKay I already replaced the icemaker customer defrosted the fill tube still no ice, where to look next.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OKay I already replaced the icemaker customer defrosted the fill tube still no ice, where to look next.

the on /off switch is on 74 ohms

then the Switch is bad

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/915772

 

Ice-Maker-Assembly-D7824706Q-00631398.jp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No that was the old icemaker, I guess I did not make that clear. So there is a new icemaker in the freezer. Where to check

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

same tests as the "old" IceMaker ...

Do you have the tech sheet ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How to test a Whirlpool modular ice maker:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tried to jump and nothing, that is a manual harvest. Only getting 1.6 V between L & N. Getting 0 ohms between V & N. Coustomer said when the icemaker went out it spit a bunch of water out on the floor, a couple gallons. Any ideas Model # JFC2089HES. Brand new ice maker. Is it possible the new icemaker is defective, The 1.6V is confussing.

Edited by richseattle56

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is there a way to test the fuse? The water when the icemaker stopped working an indication. The 0 ohms between V & N anything? Should I replace both?

Edited by richseattle56

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... Is there a way to test the fuse?

... The 0 ohms between V & N anything?

... Should I replace both?

1) do a continuity test on the (Black ?) wire of the Harness

2) 0 OHMs would indicate a short in the Water Valve or wiring (would cause Fuse to blow)

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/1071263

 

Water-Inlet-Valve-67005154-00760030.jpg

3) yes, if your tests were done correctly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The black wire and what else.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got 0 ohms between V & N

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The black wire and what else.

the other end of the Black wire in the Harness adapter as shown in the picture

I got 0 ohms between V & N

0 OHMs would indicate a short in the Water Valve or wiring

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Went back today I had to order the wiring harness, and when it got in the customer was on vacation. Today I picked up the fill valve, and went to install the harness and the fill valve. I checked the old wire harness, the black wire had continuity. I checked the voltage at the icemaker plug, 1.6 V. I thought why, and then I remembered that the freezer light switch opens the circuit to the icemaker when the door is open. Depressed door switch, messured voltage at plug on back wall, 123V, replaced fill valve, all is well.

Thanks for all the help. I will definately remember when checking votage to the icemaker to depress the door switch. I think that would apply to a manual

havest cycle also.

Rich

Edited by richseattle56

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Always, always, ALWAYS look at the schematic on the tech sheet for the unit you're working on. In this case, the schematic shows that the ice maker gets power through the freezer light switch so manual harvest wouldn't work unless the freezer light switch was closed. This isn't always true for all models, it just happens to be the way this one is wired. If you don't review the tech sheet before you start troubleshooting ANY appliance, you're flying blind. BTW, the tech sheet is in front, behind the to grill.

On a brighter note, this unit uses the infamous Jazz control board which are famous fro failing early and often. So it's a sure bet that you'll be back soon on a no- defrost complaint. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was the fill valve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites